• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through June 04, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I had all sorts of problems with my 301/1250 using the same head gasket twice an new gasket solved almost everything, except for the scratch due to carelessness.
blush.gif
 
Bobby and Dean - Thanks for the info. I am planning on pulling the head agian later this week. When I do so, I will check the surface with a sheet of glass and a feeler guage. If that turns out ok I will us the new guasket that I bought and see what happens.

Chris C.
 
Took the hood/grille off the new "skeeter chaser" 149 tonight to get at the PTO clutch assembly. Problem I saw was the crank pulley/clutch drive plate was floppin' all over the place. Been a while since I'd taken a PTO off and I was anticipating the usual with the set screws, etc. Found only one set, so I knew somebody'd been there before me... When the PTO hub assembly pulled off without a fight, I started getting worried. Bearing looked really good, so did the plates and spring on the hub - at this point I was positive that as soon as I got the bearing and collar off, I'd find that the hub of the pulley had wallowed around on the crank and chewed the crank up... Took a little persuasion with two pry bars on the lock collar - I was even lucky there and was able to get behind the collar, so I wasn't prying on the bearing race - bearing popped off. Moment of truth - slide the pulley off and a piece of shim dropped out - the hub had been welded and bored, must have been loose and they shimmed it.. SO, the best bad news I've had lately - I need a pulley (see ya in the want ads), but the crank looks clean and miked straight from the end to end! Now if I find a clean bore when I take the head off, the only thing I'll have to worry about are the balance gears
thumbsup.gif
 
Hey guys. I just bought a 1650. It's in great looking shape. The prvious owner said the motor ran strong and one day while mowing, the engine died. Like it lost spark. He sold it (to me) after that and bought something new. The motor looks good, no leaks... It DOES turn by hand so I know it isn't siezed. This is my first 1650 so I am not to familiar with them as far as the engines go. I am more of a diesel man.

Although there obviously isn't a whole lot to them, but does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem could be. I just picked it up yesterday so I haven't even tore into it yet. I will replace the plug and wire, but do the coils typically go bad and may need to be replaced, or is that normally not the problem. You all are so helpfull, I though I'd start here first. The engine is the 16hp Kohlor
 
Nate- try swapping out the coil. I suspect that it is getting hot.
 
Nate: I just checked the parts lookup - looks like all the K-341's had points, condenser and coil. Make sure you've got voltage to the coil, check the plug, check the points for proper gap and that they're clean and that they're opening and closing when the motor is rolled over. Condensers are a little harder to check, but you'll usually get some fire, even if they're kaput. Coils do go bad, but check the other stuff before jumping on that.
 
You type faster, Hugh ... Nate, if you do get a coil, make sure it meets Kohler specs for internal resistance (do a search, it was just talked about recently...)
thumbsup.gif
 
Charlie- Nice looking front porch you are putting on your castle. How soon before we can come over and sip iced tea on it and talk about cubs?????
 
Nate what I do when I suspect the coil is going bad on a cub is grab a known good one off of one of my many runners and do a swap out on to the tractor that is giving me fits. saves a lot of time guessing and running to and from the parts store.
 
Nate my 1250 with a 301 (same setup as 16hp) up and died one day plowing snow it was a simple mater of changing the points and condencer the small engine shop down the road told me to set the points at .020, I set the gap hit the key and it fired right up. It hadn't run that good for some time. I think the points and condencer (Kohler factory kit) was like 7 or 8 bucks.
 
do they make a syclemower for a model 1000 or a hammer mower
 
Hugh,
I'd say by day after tomorrow it will be suitable for leisure activities.
biggrin.gif

The wife still isn't to keen on the idea of drivin a Cub on it for a pic, but you know me!!!!!
 
Nate - Condensers do go bad so check that to. If you have a volt meter take off the condenser and ground the case of it to a battery negative and touch the wire (or stud as some are made) to the positive on the battery WITHOUT touching the 2 at the same time in your hand. Jumper wires with alligator clips are good to have around. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes then hook your volt meter to it as if it were a battery. A holding meter would be best but not necessary. Watch real quick to see the reading before it discharges (it'll be fast!) and see if it showed the voltage reading that your battery has. If it did it's good. If it didn't (lower voltage) it's bad.
I use to have a K241 on a welder and I had to replace the condenser every year.
 
Its alive!!!!!! Its alive!!!!!! Sunday after 10 mos. of working part time and the few minutes that I give myself to work on the 1000. Being a perfectionist is a bad sin I have, but all worth it when I finally started that little guy up.

Just got a few minor thing to straighten out but to hear that motor start and drive it in the yard for few minutes was a great accomplishment.

Got to fine tune the clutch, the hood, and the carb. Get the IH rear weights installed and just a little touch up on the paint putting it back together.

Question: I have a RPM elctronic reader here at work when you guys check the RPM do you read it from the PTO pulley, clutch drive or what??????

Pictures will be taken and I do have before just waiting for the after!
bouncy.gif


Pops
 
Ben, you need to be as close to the center of rotation as possible. I tach. centrafuges all the time and that is how we do it. The drive shaft would be fine in this case.
 
Jarrod, that's exactly why I posted that photo, so you'd see where the tension screw is located.
happy.gif
 
Hi All,
I am new to this site and Just wanted to say Hi I ended up scoring An IH Cub 149 for FREE yes Free and I am Quickly falling in love with the old Girl. It had sat for a number of years but I brought it home found a short in the coil wire and fixed it cleaned and adjusted the points And once I figured out the PTO she fired right up. What a work horse! Will check the fact board to see if it will answer questions I have before i start picking Brains.
 
A rudimentary question here. As viewed from sitting on the seat, which direction should a K-301 turn when running? I just acquired a 123 and I have a feeling that the starter-generator is wired to run the wrong way, considering that the old boy who I got the tractor from had it set up as a positive (!) ground.

Thanks!
 
I found this pair of NOS Wheel weights at a local CIH/CC dealer last week. They were in their inventory for years. Partsman said were only used to anchor their Christmas Lights once a year.
59060.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top