Archive through June 01, 2010
- Thread starter bproctor
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Eric Thomas
http://ccspecialties.org/clutch_driveline_rearend.html
I know our sponsor has those there for us to buy!
http://ccspecialties.org/clutch_driveline_rearend.html
I know our sponsor has those there for us to buy!
Eric, CC Specialties, Madson's Service and probably other forum sponsors carry them. What size did you need? I may have a spare one setting around I could send your way.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Eric: CC Specialties..
The one on the hydro pump on my 129 is the original. As Harry was talking about the other day, there seems to be some murkiness about the one in the front end of the driveshaft.. Mine was solid when I got it and the pin in there now was something I dug out of a junk box, it is actually hollow (and tapped) on one end for about 3/16 of an inch.. It was what I had handy at the time, and when I drove it through, stayed tight. That was mid 90's (BIHCCF) and it's still there, although I've had to build it back up with a little bead at least once or twice.. I think it was a piece out of a sewing machine
<font size="-2">(oh crap, here comes the correct police....)</font>
The one on the hydro pump on my 129 is the original. As Harry was talking about the other day, there seems to be some murkiness about the one in the front end of the driveshaft.. Mine was solid when I got it and the pin in there now was something I dug out of a junk box, it is actually hollow (and tapped) on one end for about 3/16 of an inch.. It was what I had handy at the time, and when I drove it through, stayed tight. That was mid 90's (BIHCCF) and it's still there, although I've had to build it back up with a little bead at least once or twice.. I think it was a piece out of a sewing machine
dmcdermott
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- Daniel McDermott
Does anyothe know where to get reproduction decals for a kohler that can be stamped with the correct S/N and spec number???
Eric, send me an email with your mailing address. I have a spare, 1/4" x 1.5" Spirol pin, that I'll send you. I'll mail it out tomorrow and you should have it in 3 days or so.
Eric T.
Any Auto Parts store will have them.
Just make sure it's a spirol pin and not a plain roll pin.
Any Auto Parts store will have them.
Just make sure it's a spirol pin and not a plain roll pin.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Eric:
YARBOROUGH TRACTORS & EQUIP.INC.
7553 CHARLOTTE HIGHWAY (HWY 521)
FORT MILL SC 29707
Phone: (803) 547-5003
View Cub Cadet Dealer Site
14.8 miles
............................................
WHITLEY LAWN & GARDEN, INC.
4308 PAGELAND HIGHWAY
MONROE NC 28112
Phone: (704) 764-3910
15.5 miles
...........................................
CHARLOTTE TRACTOR CO
1700 STARITA ROAD
CHARLOTTE NC 28206
Phone: (704) 596-8900
16.5 miles
.............................................
LAKE NORMAN TRACTOR COMPANY
18309 STATESVILLE ROAD
CORNELIUS NC 28031
Phone: (704) 892-6750
29.5 miles
Directions
............................................
STANLY TRACTOR COMPANY
2016 WEST MAIN STREET
ALBEMARLE NC 28001
Phone: (704) 983-1106
29.6 miles
Hmmmmm, gotta be one of these local enough for ya...
YARBOROUGH TRACTORS & EQUIP.INC.
7553 CHARLOTTE HIGHWAY (HWY 521)
FORT MILL SC 29707
Phone: (803) 547-5003
View Cub Cadet Dealer Site
14.8 miles
............................................
WHITLEY LAWN & GARDEN, INC.
4308 PAGELAND HIGHWAY
MONROE NC 28112
Phone: (704) 764-3910
15.5 miles
...........................................
CHARLOTTE TRACTOR CO
1700 STARITA ROAD
CHARLOTTE NC 28206
Phone: (704) 596-8900
16.5 miles
.............................................
LAKE NORMAN TRACTOR COMPANY
18309 STATESVILLE ROAD
CORNELIUS NC 28031
Phone: (704) 892-6750
29.5 miles
Directions
............................................
STANLY TRACTOR COMPANY
2016 WEST MAIN STREET
ALBEMARLE NC 28001
Phone: (704) 983-1106
29.6 miles
Hmmmmm, gotta be one of these local enough for ya...
Ya know the thing is, There NOTHING that our Sponsors don't have or can't get for Cub Cadets.
Not to take anything away from Cub Dealers proper, but we all know the attitude of most of them when you say made before even 1990!
Not to take anything away from Cub Dealers proper, but we all know the attitude of most of them when you say made before even 1990!
J
jott
Guest
Charlie, not that i dont support the sponsors but i have pretty good luck with either one of my cub dealers with parts. if one doesnt have it or the other has it cheaper i will always get it one way or another. i can say the model number( 105,124,ect; and they know whast im talking about just my 0.02
Guy's, can't thank you enough for all the info about the paint!!!!
Do you just use reg. Fed. yellow for the engine or a heat rated paint? Most of the original paint had turned brown. I assumed it was caused by heat but I suspect there was a gas leak and that can turn paint brown also. I'm trying to decide on assembling the engine and then painting or painting all the parts then put it together. Any advice?
I wont paint the head or the cooling fins!
Do you just use reg. Fed. yellow for the engine or a heat rated paint? Most of the original paint had turned brown. I assumed it was caused by heat but I suspect there was a gas leak and that can turn paint brown also. I'm trying to decide on assembling the engine and then painting or painting all the parts then put it together. Any advice?
I wont paint the head or the cooling fins!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Bob-
You can paint the cylinder, but it'll discolor. I'd rather have discolored paint than rust on a freshly repainted tractor, but that's me. Rust and paint probably conduct heat equally poorly, so it probably doesn't make a difference. You could also paint the cylinder with high-temp BBQ grill paint.
For the 100 I redid, I painted everything in pieces and then assembled it. I had to be extremely careful not to scratch anything, and it took forever to put it together, but I think I'd do it again, that way, because you can get paint everywhere that it needs to be when the engine is disassembled.
You can paint the cylinder, but it'll discolor. I'd rather have discolored paint than rust on a freshly repainted tractor, but that's me. Rust and paint probably conduct heat equally poorly, so it probably doesn't make a difference. You could also paint the cylinder with high-temp BBQ grill paint.
For the 100 I redid, I painted everything in pieces and then assembled it. I had to be extremely careful not to scratch anything, and it took forever to put it together, but I think I'd do it again, that way, because you can get paint everywhere that it needs to be when the engine is disassembled.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
BTW - I just learned that "Spirol" is a brand... here's some info from their catalog (all pages courtesy Spirol International)..
Bob P:
If you need to punch more out, there are special dome ended punches that help "spring" the center - they'll come right out..
Bob P:
If you need to punch more out, there are special dome ended punches that help "spring" the center - they'll come right out..
Josh O.
Soooooo, your telling us that you go both ways?
Soooooo, your telling us that you go both ways?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Here's a tip for removing spirol pins. Wire brush paint and rust off of it if possible, and then soak it in PB blaster. Inspect it and figure out which end was hammered on to install it. Drive it out the other way, such that you aren't trying to force a peened-over end all the way through the hole. This makes removal a LOT easier.
Gerry, that's why I type it with a capital S.
What kind of 30w oil should I get for my 122?
