From a 1963 IH Tractor & Cub Cadet Parts & Accessories catalog:
From a 1970 IH Tractor & Cub Cadet Parts & Accessories catalog:
From a 1970 IH Tractor & Cub Cadet Parts & Accessories catalog:
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through July 29, 2012
- Thread starter mschutz
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Regarding horns---
Dad found a 2 tone 6V horn off a buick years ago; half went on his H and the other half on the W9. On the 9 it's mounted in front of the fuel tank (right side) and on the H it's mounted in front of the radiator but behind the grille. I enjoy honking at people as they are unaware there is a horn on an antique tractor that they can't see. I'm tempted to try to find one for my cub.
Dad found a 2 tone 6V horn off a buick years ago; half went on his H and the other half on the W9. On the 9 it's mounted in front of the fuel tank (right side) and on the H it's mounted in front of the radiator but behind the grille. I enjoy honking at people as they are unaware there is a horn on an antique tractor that they can't see. I'm tempted to try to find one for my cub.
wsdrake
Well-known member
Never thought my horn would garner this much attention!
I wasn't to crazy about the idea myself, but given that i have little children living on both sides of my house, I'm kinda glad i put it on. Good luck Jeff, the hard part will be finding an original Cub Cadet horn button. It will be a PITA. Talk at you later. Bill.
Hey gang!
I’m new to the Forum, wanted to introduce myself. I live in the Show-Me state and own and live on eight acres of land south of St. Louis. I am in the process of purchasing a IH / CC 982 to be used primarily for mowing the grass. I hope to get a front blade for it to help with some landscaping projects.
I'm looking for suggestions on what I should inspect when I go to look at the machine. What are the common failure points? What are "show stoppers" and what's not that big of a deal?
Thanks in advance!
Kirk
I’m new to the Forum, wanted to introduce myself. I live in the Show-Me state and own and live on eight acres of land south of St. Louis. I am in the process of purchasing a IH / CC 982 to be used primarily for mowing the grass. I hope to get a front blade for it to help with some landscaping projects.
I'm looking for suggestions on what I should inspect when I go to look at the machine. What are the common failure points? What are "show stoppers" and what's not that big of a deal?
Thanks in advance!
Kirk
Charlie..Its not that I only buy off ebay.Theres a few things I'm gonna order from the sponsors above.It mostky comes down to the price, I'm not a rich person. lol They do have good prices on alot of there parts , and some parts are a a lil more then others. Everybody likes a good deal once in a while when its possible.I'm actually in the middle of making up a list of stuff I'm going to order from cc specialties & cc wharehouse.Long story short I understand what your sayin , if it wasnt for ebay I would have never found my awsome cc 104.lol
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
I'd found this pic somewhere awhile back:
100 with Horn:
Last week I ordered a horn and 5 buttons from China. The horn was $1 and $1.99 shipping. I can't drive to the Post Office for $1.99!
100 with Horn:
Last week I ordered a horn and 5 buttons from China. The horn was $1 and $1.99 shipping. I can't drive to the Post Office for $1.99!
RICK Albert - remove the sediment bowl from the tank... the whole thing and throw it away... buy a new right angle gas valve at your local hardware store, put some gasoline-proof thread sealant on the threads and install the valve on the tank. The end of the valve should be 1/4" hose barb, also buy a 1/8" NPT to 1/4" hose barb fitting for the carb fuel inlet plus a foot or two of 1/4" rubber fuel line, and an in-line fuel filter. Assemble as required.
Been a while since I did my last conversion but I don't think I spent over $10-$12. May be $15-$16 now.
Sediment bowls do two things, leak and don't filter well at all. Even IH/Kohler went that direction in later models.
If you're trying to keep your Original all original, your cork gasket between the glass bulb and the valve is shot, the diecast body may be bad too. If the body looks O-K, make a new gasket out of 1/8" thk VITON, plain rubber or neoprene won't work, Viton is the most expensive gasket material, its fairly expensive. Any auto parts store should have it in small rolls, you'll need the smallest amount you can buy. You can cut it with sissors. Use the old cork gasket for a pattern.
You'll need to tighten the finger nut below the bulb with pliers. They have to be tight.
The gas valve may also be leaking, the small o-rings or packing may be bad or worn. An auto parts store should have them too, remove the small hex nut behind the fuel valve stem to gain access to them. Or just tightening the hex nut may stop the leak too.
Been a while since I did my last conversion but I don't think I spent over $10-$12. May be $15-$16 now.
Sediment bowls do two things, leak and don't filter well at all. Even IH/Kohler went that direction in later models.
If you're trying to keep your Original all original, your cork gasket between the glass bulb and the valve is shot, the diecast body may be bad too. If the body looks O-K, make a new gasket out of 1/8" thk VITON, plain rubber or neoprene won't work, Viton is the most expensive gasket material, its fairly expensive. Any auto parts store should have it in small rolls, you'll need the smallest amount you can buy. You can cut it with sissors. Use the old cork gasket for a pattern.
You'll need to tighten the finger nut below the bulb with pliers. They have to be tight.
The gas valve may also be leaking, the small o-rings or packing may be bad or worn. An auto parts store should have them too, remove the small hex nut behind the fuel valve stem to gain access to them. Or just tightening the hex nut may stop the leak too.
WILLIS H. - You have to remove the fenders on a WF, then remove the small capscrews that hold the shifter on top of the trans.
Do you know for sure you have a broken or bent shift fork?
If you need to replace the shift fork you have to take a bunch of the transmission apart. Look at the service manual, HERE:http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%20QL%20Service%20Manual.pdf
What's your tractor doing or NOT doing that you think the shifting linkage needs to be replaced?
Do you know for sure you have a broken or bent shift fork?
If you need to replace the shift fork you have to take a bunch of the transmission apart. Look at the service manual, HERE:http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%20QL%20Service%20Manual.pdf
What's your tractor doing or NOT doing that you think the shifting linkage needs to be replaced?
Dennis F......thank you for confirming exactly what I was thinking.....thanks for taking the time for all your suggestions.....I have two bowls and I'm done with them.....the " O " runs and cuts great but now that #$%^&* problem has been solved.
Thanks again !!!
Thanks again !!!
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Dennis F. That was my thoughts originally on the horns. I need to go to Redfield, Iowa to a gentleman and get the horn off a scrap IH pickup. Just to save the horn and some other items on the truck. When I had the 706 I swapped a 1968 Ford F150 horn onto the 706. It's about the same size and had a more unique and louder sound than the IH horn. The 706 horn should still be in a storage shed in eastern Iowa.
Frank C. About that horn that you ordered from China.... Are you making sure that it is tuned to the key of F? All American vehicle horns are tuned in the key of F. I'm not sure about those foreign horns.
Now if it were musical instruments then American instruments are tuned to 440A while European are 425A.
Frank C. About that horn that you ordered from China.... Are you making sure that it is tuned to the key of F? All American vehicle horns are tuned in the key of F. I'm not sure about those foreign horns.
Now if it were musical instruments then American instruments are tuned to 440A while European are 425A.
Marlin,
As a classically trained singer, and a member of a semi-professional choral organization, I never knew that an American automobile horn is tuned based upon the key of F. In the late 80's and early 90's, Buick offered a four tone horn in their Park Avenue Series cars. I always thought that they were a nice sounding horn. There are certainly enough International trucks in salvage yards, at lease around here, due to the poor integrity of their bodies. (They were very prone to rust.) I wonder of those truck horns were the same part as used in the Cub Cadet option line. I would think that International trucks, for the most part, would have used a single note horn. They were nothing too fancy.
In accordance with this conversation, I will consider the addition of a warning device on the 1250 nightmare, right after I get most of the shaking out of it. I'll be sure it is tuned to F.
As a classically trained singer, and a member of a semi-professional choral organization, I never knew that an American automobile horn is tuned based upon the key of F. In the late 80's and early 90's, Buick offered a four tone horn in their Park Avenue Series cars. I always thought that they were a nice sounding horn. There are certainly enough International trucks in salvage yards, at lease around here, due to the poor integrity of their bodies. (They were very prone to rust.) I wonder of those truck horns were the same part as used in the Cub Cadet option line. I would think that International trucks, for the most part, would have used a single note horn. They were nothing too fancy.
In accordance with this conversation, I will consider the addition of a warning device on the 1250 nightmare, right after I get most of the shaking out of it. I'll be sure it is tuned to F.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Brian W. The only difference may be a part number. I'd check out a tractor salvage yard, also. And since you're a music lover do a you tube search for Chinese Music.
Footnote.... I just noticed a "tired eyes" mistake from last night. European musical instruments are tune to 435A not 425A. There is a huge difference. I apologize for that.
Footnote.... I just noticed a "tired eyes" mistake from last night. European musical instruments are tune to 435A not 425A. There is a huge difference. I apologize for that.
Kirk S., WELCOME!
Hopefully someone that knows more about the 982 will be along to answer your query more specifically. Main thing that I can think of would be to drive it and see if there appears to be any slop in the hydro if you can drive it up and down an incline to see if it slows down on the way up or speeds up on the way down. A little bit of slow down or speed up is one thing but if it's dramatic it's likely in need of a trunion repair. The trunion wears and then allows the hydro linkage to move around. Here's some links to the FAQ on the hydro trunion:
Hydro 1
Hydro 2
Hydro 3
Hydro 4
Here's a link to one in the CubFAQ:
Hydro 5
This should not be a deal killer as it can be fixed, it's just good to know about. If the 982 you are looking at has this issue you might be able to use this info to lower the price. Check the steering if it's loose, and it likely is, that can be fixed with new tie rod ends and some maintenance to the steering gear box. Also the axle channel might need to be squeezed back together.
Hopefully someone that knows more about the 982 will be along to answer your query more specifically. Main thing that I can think of would be to drive it and see if there appears to be any slop in the hydro if you can drive it up and down an incline to see if it slows down on the way up or speeds up on the way down. A little bit of slow down or speed up is one thing but if it's dramatic it's likely in need of a trunion repair. The trunion wears and then allows the hydro linkage to move around. Here's some links to the FAQ on the hydro trunion:
Hydro 1
Hydro 2
Hydro 3
Hydro 4
Here's a link to one in the CubFAQ:
Hydro 5
This should not be a deal killer as it can be fixed, it's just good to know about. If the 982 you are looking at has this issue you might be able to use this info to lower the price. Check the steering if it's loose, and it likely is, that can be fixed with new tie rod ends and some maintenance to the steering gear box. Also the axle channel might need to be squeezed back together.
jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
I finally got time to start inspecting my 169. I started with the hydro, fluid and filter change. I have never heard of this filter so I will put a new cub one on
The trunion looks in good shape and after a little degreaser the hydro shines.
Now on the horn Not to discredit Billy D horn but I think it was more a dealer installed option rather than factory installed. Not that this makes much difference because the horn is cool and I want one someday.
The trunion looks in good shape and after a little degreaser the hydro shines.
Now on the horn Not to discredit Billy D horn but I think it was more a dealer installed option rather than factory installed. Not that this makes much difference because the horn is cool and I want one someday.
KRAIG, KIRK - The 982 has a totally different steering linkage than any other CC, there's a pivoting yoke attached behind the center of the frt axle to convert the fore & aft movement to port & starboard for turning. The steering gear is much larger and more heavy-duty than any of the normal sized CC's, I've never had to adjust my 982's steering in the 12 yrs I've had it. I did replace the pivot pin the yoke pivots on to tighten up a little slop, made a BIG difference. The pivot for that yoke isn;t greasable. It was still available 5-6 yrs ago from MTD. There's jack bolts installed in the axle channel too to adjust the normal wobble or play the smaller CC's seem to get in the pivot too. Plus the frt axle is at least twice a beefy as any other CC.
The 982 tractor itself is bullet-proof, the later CCC-built models with the all diecast rearend housing have had a few instances of the top two axle carrier bolts loosening and wallowing out the threads. And where the frame squashes down and widen outs ahead of the steering console I've heard of a couple cracking the frame. But they are a smooth comfortable easy handling tractor. The tractors with ALL the options bring a premium price, they have the individual rear brakes, rear PTO, Cat 0 3-pt, and the extra pair of frt remotes.
The Onan engines can be finicky to keep running, and expensive to work on, but they make a lot of HP for a tractor the size of the 982. Mine runs the 50C deck with ease.
RICK A. Yes, the old 2-blade timed 38" decks do a nice job of mowing compared to the later 3-blade 38" decks. The short little belt running from the center driven pulley to the right spindle was their weak spot, that belt couldn't handle a lot of HP, and the timing belt didn't like shocks from hitting things at all. We broke one a year on our old '63 Original. When the second one broke in '65 the O got traded for the 70 out in the shop. I think that O is still mowing. It was repainted red/white by the IH dealer in Cambridge, IL and the guy who bought it back in '65 was still mwoing with it about 10 yrs ago.
MARLIN - Why not just get the whole IH pickup? Like Brian says, they were very prone to rusting, the lack of electro-galvanized steel & not good primers & paint made them rust quick.
I'd like to get a better horn on my '96 F250. The night I picked it up I tapped the horn and it's so wimpy I've never honked the horn again. My little Volvo has a MUCH better sounding horn.
The 982 tractor itself is bullet-proof, the later CCC-built models with the all diecast rearend housing have had a few instances of the top two axle carrier bolts loosening and wallowing out the threads. And where the frame squashes down and widen outs ahead of the steering console I've heard of a couple cracking the frame. But they are a smooth comfortable easy handling tractor. The tractors with ALL the options bring a premium price, they have the individual rear brakes, rear PTO, Cat 0 3-pt, and the extra pair of frt remotes.
The Onan engines can be finicky to keep running, and expensive to work on, but they make a lot of HP for a tractor the size of the 982. Mine runs the 50C deck with ease.
RICK A. Yes, the old 2-blade timed 38" decks do a nice job of mowing compared to the later 3-blade 38" decks. The short little belt running from the center driven pulley to the right spindle was their weak spot, that belt couldn't handle a lot of HP, and the timing belt didn't like shocks from hitting things at all. We broke one a year on our old '63 Original. When the second one broke in '65 the O got traded for the 70 out in the shop. I think that O is still mowing. It was repainted red/white by the IH dealer in Cambridge, IL and the guy who bought it back in '65 was still mwoing with it about 10 yrs ago.
MARLIN - Why not just get the whole IH pickup? Like Brian says, they were very prone to rusting, the lack of electro-galvanized steel & not good primers & paint made them rust quick.
I'd like to get a better horn on my '96 F250. The night I picked it up I tapped the horn and it's so wimpy I've never honked the horn again. My little Volvo has a MUCH better sounding horn.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Jeff Baker - that trunion looks like it's hardly worn. Very surprising for a 48 year old tractor. Must not have alot of "shifting" time. I don't think I'd do anything with the trunion until I used the tractor to see how it operates. And the cooling fan looks nearly new as well. Did this 169 ever really get used???Now, on the hydro filter, I don't know how Cub Cadet can put that slogan on the box "use the parts it was born with". It would be nice if they continued to provide original parts, then I would agree with their slogan, and it may just be the hydro filter is still the same, but what about the ISO-mounts, and some of the other stuff they are putting out, or not as the case may be. They can make a killin on parts if they just keep providing all of them. Hope you're 169 goes well. Post some pics after you get it back together.
Brian W - if you can pull the 1250 engine and replace the ISO-mounts, then I think you can go thru the carb adjustments. You have to have disconnected the choke and throttle linkage when you removed the engine. If you got this all back in the correct places then I know you can adjust the carb. Have a look at the Service Manual for the engine - it has some good pics of where and how to make adjustments. Quite simple once you figured out the locations. Only thing I'd be concerned with is using your ear to determine the rpm's.
Brian W - if you can pull the 1250 engine and replace the ISO-mounts, then I think you can go thru the carb adjustments. You have to have disconnected the choke and throttle linkage when you removed the engine. If you got this all back in the correct places then I know you can adjust the carb. Have a look at the Service Manual for the engine - it has some good pics of where and how to make adjustments. Quite simple once you figured out the locations. Only thing I'd be concerned with is using your ear to determine the rpm's.
Jeff-
I agree with Hydro about the trunion slot. It either hasn't been used much or has been replaced. Is there much play with the cam plates? I'd put that tractor back together and use it. Put a deck under it or something in order to familiarize yourself with all of its "quirks", if any.
You dun good! Now you have the true Yard Harley.
I agree with Hydro about the trunion slot. It either hasn't been used much or has been replaced. Is there much play with the cam plates? I'd put that tractor back together and use it. Put a deck under it or something in order to familiarize yourself with all of its "quirks", if any.
You dun good! Now you have the true Yard Harley.
