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Archive through July 26, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Paul - sure are painted! Thanks again for your help. Looks like the boots on the ball joints were also painted. The ones on my O are rubber and wasn't certain if I should paint them or leave them black. I'm assuming they're original but never know for sure.
 
Ok guys, I'll try to make this as short as I can.

A friend of mine and the owner of a scrap yard got in a running 1282 yesterday. He said it ran beautifully on the trailer, and when he brought it up front to put fuel into it, it started to sputter and run a little rough. I also notice that when you engage the deck, it nearly kills the tractor, even at fast idle and sitting still. I would guess the deck is probably a 52 incher. Unfortunatley, the starter went out on me, so I'll have to put a used one on it.

WHAT I HAVE DONE- Changed spark plug, (It had a Champion J19LM. I put in a Champion H8, iirc. It might have helped a little, but it still wasn't nearly perfect.) I have checked the carb bowl, (no crud visible, and full of gas.) and I have changed the fuel filter.

WHAT I THINK IT COULD BE FROM HERE- I am thinking it could be a partially blocked fuel line, though that doesn't make much sense. It might also be a carb adjjustment, but I don't know.

Any other thoughts? Its a really nice tractor..
 
Charles,
Your question would be answered more quickly if you repost it in the CCC built and MTD tractors forum.
Nice save though!
I picked up a 1650 at a scrap yard yesterday and it runs great but,and there is a but...It looks like it rolled down a hill then bent the frame,and flung all the tins off.
 
I do enjoy the sharp wittiness in all you guys on this forum, Its like a good book, you just can't put it down and relish turning the page...
 
Actually- not to dispute you -But this one has what looks to be all-original IH badging on it.. Hence why I posted it here. Did CCC build Cubs for Harvester after they gave up the franchise, then? I looked everywhere I could think of- except the serial number tag. (made a mistake by not looking >.<) -and didn't see anything to do with CCC. It all said IH. I can move it, if you-all would rather I did.
 
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As far as I know,They started at serial #712,000,CCC made them for IH.
I guess a pic of the serial # plate would help,Eh

Under edit,Looks like that 1282 has a hydro lift on it Eh
 
Charles Krill - Actually, yes, the 1282 was never built by IHC, it was produced by CCC/MTD, For IHC, but really there's not much difference between a 1282 and a 129 IH CC. Same engine, transmission, just the paint and some sheet metal & trim differences. Plus the elec. PTO clutch on the 1282.

I hope you put a Champion H10C plug in the engine, which is a K301 Kohler. The J8C Champion plugs fit the K91/141/161/181 Kohlers, 4,6,7,&8 HP. The H prefix denotes 14 MM threads 7/16" long, the J prefix denotes 14 mm threads only 3/8" long. They sorta "interchange" but shouldn't be.

BRIAN W. - I think you're trying to get WAY too much of the side play out of the bearings. Those ball bearings hate running too tight axially, like I said last time. If the wheel has between .003" of side to side movement, or an eighth of an inch you'll never be able to tell from the seat. The bearings are trying to force the balls out of the radial grooves in the races and putting tremendous stress on the races & balls themselves. The capscrew and washer you lost and found has to tighten up securely on to the end of the frt spindle, the inner race of the bearings should not touch them. By tightening the bearing the way you are, your siezing the bearing, and causing the inner race to turn with the wheel on the spindle, which turns the washer and loosens the capscrew. Remove some of those shims from each wheel and you'll be fine. The bearings themselves are just a somewhat loose press fit into the bore of the wheels, they should push in with your fingers, then a tap or two with a small hammer seats the flange on the outer race against the end of the bore of the wheel. I've had wheels where the bearings "fell" in, which allows them to fall out too, but wrapping some .005" thk brass shim stock around the outside of the outer race and tapping them in tightens them right up. And is much cheaper than new wheels. Length of the strip of shim stock determined by how much clearance you're trying to take up.
 
Great time at the Central City Pioneer farm days this weekend. Lots of great folks and Ryan and I had the garden tractor section all sewed up.

This young man plowed about half the strip on the left here with my 73 and hopes to be back next year with his very own 682 and a plow!
I bet he'll have a sore arm in the morning!
As long as there are still young men like him in the heartland, there is still hope for the USA that most of us grew up in!! Blake, if you read this, I want you to know how much I enjoyed letting you plow w/my equipment and you made a very good impression on all who happened to see you in action!!

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Here we are, all loaded up and ready to hit the short road home!

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Dave & Carolyn Schwandt
 
Does Dennis ever sleep?
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Post pics, ol' Frank just turned the page.
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