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Archive through July 17, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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lbuttke

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Joined
Jun 25, 2003
Messages
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displayname
Lonny Buttke
Has anyone ever converted a cub cadet into a wood/log splitter?
OR
Does anyone have a photo of a cub cadet that has been converted into a wood/log splitter?

I ask only because my father has decided to switch to an outdoors wood stove for heat and I will be needing a wood/log splitter soon, and was thinking of converting one of my cubs into a wood/log splitter.
 
Does anyone know if this site has a cross-reference for the air filter for my 149? Of course I have the Home Depot, Lowes, nearby.

I also must have bumped my deck and knocked it off something since the deck no longer goes up and down. Does anyone know how to take the cover off for me to get to the repair?
 
Found out my problem on the 149 is a faulty S/G.
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Hey Lonny B: Yep, IH did waaaaaay back in 1979. I've got one of those Unicorn spliters and it works just like it says....If you use (I did) some long studs & lug nuts, the wheel stays on and the splitter is easily mounted for use or detached and stored when not in use. Handy Dandy deal down here in the East Texas Forests...

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
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Help, my 1650 is running rough at full throtle. I have changed air filter and replaced the gas in the tank. The coil and condenser were loose on the engine. Any help or suggestions? Thanks.
 
John S.-

Have you adjusted the carb? Replacing a clogged air filter will usually require a change of carb settings.
 
John S.-

A couple other things:

Check the fit of your plug wire on the plug. if it doesn't "click" on firmly, it might be jumping around and not firing all the time. I had one do that once.

Tighten the coil and condenser properly, and check for loose wires or bad connections.

The timing could be off as well.
 
What a dirty job this is trying to get the many coats of paint off these old rims. I have all new rubber for the 147 and wanted to try the glass blaster.it ain`t no fun job lol
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Does anyone know if the correct wire routing for a 582 from the ignition switch back to the battery/solenoid goes inside the frame rails until the battery box and then snakes outside up to the solenoid, or is it supposed to stay inside the frame rails the whole way???
 
I've found that old brake fluid makes a decent, low-toxic paint remover.

If you can take a week or two to soak the parts, it softens thick, factory paint up real nice.

I had an aircleaner cover and base in it for two weeks. (Granted, this had some oil and water in it, and had been sitting around unsealed for awhile, fresher stuff may actually work better).
After two weeks, I was able to rub most of the paint off with my bare fingers...Down to bare metal. Used a wire cup on the drill for the tougher spots..Usually in the nooks and crannies.
At the very least, it should soften up ALL the layers of paint, making less work of blasting. Just let the paint "dry" for awhile after removing from the fluid bath, before blasting.

Much easier to clean up after than blasting, and less toxic and easier to dispose of than solvents.
Just takes longer, so if you have the patience to wait, hang onto that old brake fluid after brake jobs.
 
Art U, how big a vehicle did you work on that used a gallon of brake fluid
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. Dont think my Cub would need more than a few ounces even if I put power brakes on it.
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On removing broken keys a thin coping saw blade will slide in next to the key and with a little patince you can hook the broken part and pull it right out.
 
Allen,
Ended up with a couple old, partial bottles, and had a jug with about a gallon of old fluid from about half a dozen brake jobs, and one flushing.
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Them old Toyota 4x4s need brake work a couple times a year, up here in western NY rustbelt.
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I have a mower deck Question. I have 1972 149 wide frame. I'm looking at used mower deck on ebay with a part # of 421U111. will this deck fit my tractor?
thanks, Steve
 
Myron

I have seen that type of log spliter befor and for the amount of wood I will be needing to split I dont want to have to be bending that low all day long.
My Back is not in the greatest shape now and being bent over to operate that type of splitter would do it no good.

I am thinking of removing the rearend from my 100 and attaching hydraulic pump to the driveshaft, also exstend the frame to accomadate the cylinder, splitting wedge, and oil tank.
Would also have to remove front axle from current postion and move it reward to help balance out the machine.

BUT befor I do all that I am wondering if the 10hp Kohler and clutch system would hold up to the demands of the hydraulic pump and the preasure needed to split a 18" long log.
 
Steve M:

YES....it will fit. But that deck was originally designed for the NF Cubs.

The better suited deck, would be the model 44.
 
Steve M,

That mower deck will work on your 149 provided you have the correct mule drive and deck hanger bracket to go with it. The mule drive needs to have the idler pulley arms that are straight rather than angled and the deck hanger bracket needs to be the straight version rather than the humped back version.

Don T,

I hear you on removing old paint from parts. I've found that the rust removal by electrolysis also works very good for removing paint as well. Cook the parts for a day or two and the paint will pretty much flake right off with a wire brush or a minimal amount of sand blasting. Information on it has been posted here on the forum before if you want to learn how to do it. Makes rust and paint removal easy.

John S,

I would also check your points as they may be dirty or pitted causing problems at higher speeds, also check the gap on your points. They should be set at .020". If the points are badly pitted, they should be replaced. Also you may consider getting a new condensor and spark plug.
 

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