Archive through July 16, 2012

[dross]

I was going over the cast end deck under my 72 tonight and found the rear bolt on the center blade bearing housing gone, that was a wth moment.

 

[scorder]

Does anybody know if a k181 carb off of a John Deere will work on my 72? Came across a decent used one.

 

[bpientka]

Took the QA42 apart today. Looks like drive sprocket on auger may need to be replaced.

Some of the teeth are pretty short.

I still need to get the bearing off but after that I want to remove the sprocket.

Any suggestions the sprocket off ?

Thanks,

Bernie

 

[dclinansmith]

Marty G, I have tried moving the governor arm when it stalls. The engine still does the same thing. A mechanic friend insists the coil gets to hot mounted on the side of the engine. I moved the coil behind the firewall to avoid the heat and it did the same thing anyway. I'm anxious to see what his next idea will be. I guess this cub has a mind of its own.

 

[digger]

Bernie P.
There's actually 2 ways to go.
You'll notice that the shaft is welded to the sprocket as well as to the big washer, which there is another one on the inside.
1. Grind and dremel the weld around the shaft and the sprocket or gas axe it down and then weld a new sprocket on.
2. Gets a little more complicated. Grind or cut the weld around the washer and the tube and replace the shaft and sprocket.
I have used a thin bladed cutting wheel and cut the tube back about 1/8" from the end to remove most of the weld.

It's going to be a PITA no matter what you do.
BUT, sprockets and shaft are available, so don't worry if you ruin stuff.

 

[bwittman]

Jeremiah and Harry,

Thank you so much for your insight. I know that I torqued the mounting nuts to 100 inch-pounds because I used my new Craftsman 3/8" drive inch-pound torque wrench, and double checked my work with my father's old Duro sliding beam foot pound torque wrench, and that measures 7-8 foot pounds.

I will try the leaving a couple of threads showing over the top of the locking nut. I don't plan on using the PTO often, so I guess the function of the snubbers isn't as much of a practical factor, but I like to try to put things together properly. What I really don't want is a cracked oil pan.

There is one thing of which I am sure, and that is this tractor started out to be something for me to use and enjoy; and is ending up to be nothing but a source of frustration.

Of all the things I have lost, I think I miss my mind the most.

 

[hydroharry]

Charlie - I got confused between the aftermarket car ones that I guess are stiffer and the CCC ones that are softer. Thanks for keeping me straight.

Brian - now I'm wondering if you have the correct length bolts. I know there was some discussion on here awhile back that the replacement ISO-mounts started to squish just to start the mounting nut. As long as you have the correct length bolts you still need to have a couple threads showing so the lock nut stays in place. If that means you've got pancakes, well I have to assume that is what CCC intended and you just have to try it out.
Now, I have some understanding of your frustration. To add some comfort here you need to realize once you've got it done you'll know the tractor inside and out. I really feel once you've got it done you'll enjoy it for many many years. Keep us informed how you make out.

 

[bwittman]

Harry,

I am happy that you asked about bolts. This has been a confusing issue to me. To quote the instructions from part #759-3952, the CCC part number for the OEM ISO mount: "Reassemble engine iso/mount using previously removed bolt and new 3/8" lock nut. Refer to parts catalog for proper hardware. Torque nut to 100 inch-lbs (8 foot-pounds). Do Not over-torque."

I removed 3/8' x 2 1/4" bolts. The PO had put in anything from no grade to grade 8 bolts and they were not in good condition. I chose to replace the bolts with new 2 1/4" bolts from Caterpillar, only to find that during assembly the bolts were rather short, exposing just a little thread at a loose position. I thought these bolts were too short, and I removed them and exchanged the 2 1/4" bolts for 2 3/4" bolts. I then tightened the lock nut to 100 inch-pounds. There was well over 1/2" of thread showing when 100 inch-pounds of torque was achieved. I thought that was a lot of thread to be exposed, and I looked at the snubbers and found them to be against the lower frame flange. I then removed the 2/3/4" bolts and stopped to research the correct answer.

I will reinstall the engine cradle and 2 1/4" bolts and tighten to a couple of threads showing on each corner as recommended. I expect to have ample pressure on the ISO mounts and am unsure as to the clearance of the snubbers from the lower frame flange will be using 2 1/4" bolts.

Perhaps I should go back to Caterpillar and get 2 1/2" bolts to continue with the experiment. You, Jeremiah, and a couple of others have recommended that there be a little bounce in the rubber mounts, and another mechanic has recommended that the ISO mounts be rather tight. It makes sense to me that the snubber be available to absorb some of the shock with PTO engagement. Currently, I have no shims between the snubber and the cradle. If I knew the correct answer I would be in the shop putting together this thing, rather than looking here for some guidance.

I wish I thought like a mechanic.

 

[jchamberlin]

Brian W -- Congrats on the inch-lb torque wrench, I wish I had one. Seems to me that you are thinking like a mechanic; mechanics worry about part numbers and the proper length of bolts (at least the good ones do).

Sean C -- I would think the only possible difference between a JD and an IH application would be the linkage and if you have a K181 carb from an IH already you can swap things out until you get it right. Be careful removing the shaft for the choke, though, as there may be a spring-loaded ball-bearing that holds the choke plate steady against vibration (there was one [or used to be one] on my 30 mm carburetor). Someone with experience may be able to confirm or deny actually swapping carburetors between brands.

Dave R -- Stuff happens! I guess it was the bolt's time to check out. If you think about it, that bolt probably sees more stress than any other because of the PTO belt. By-the-way, what prompted you to "go over" the cast end deck in the first place? Just curious.

 

[lhinds]

David C. Did you put a analog meter on the - side of coil? This would determine if your problem is gas or fire. A coil can be bad new or used. If the coil gets hot there is a problem jmop.

 

[dross]

Jeremiah, Years ago I put a cotter pin at the rear mount on the deck it was there long enough to get rusty and break off. I was working on that when I noticed I could make the center pulley go up and down slightly with the blade. Thats why I explained it as a wth moment, mixed in with a little "that ain't right".

 

[cmiracle]

Brian- When I re-did my iso-mounts I found that all the rubbbers didn't torque down evenly at 100lbs. Some were pancakes, some were in between, probably due to different stages of wear. I figured that having an equal amount of "squish" was more important than an equal poundage of compression due to the varying rubber, so the mounting rail will be level whenever you put weight on it. I believe I have from 3-5 threads showing on my mounting bolts due to this

(I'm sure this isn't applicable when using brand-new mounts, as you probably should use)

 

[bpientka]

Thanks Charlie,

Will start the cutting process.

 

[cmiracle]

Okay, I've been soaking my 71's wheel with liquid wrench for a week, and it still won't go. What is the best method for using heat to remove it?

 

[kfreeman]

Clark,

Most people recommend the bolt/hammer/knees approach. However, if you look at the FAQ and Charlie's FAQs you can see other methods. One uses an air hammer and knees.

I also thought that I had read of a method that used a 3 jaw puller with a plate or bearing puller below the wheel to protect the wheel.

I used a heavy duty pitman arm puller (on a pitman arm) the other day. The instructions said to tighten the center bolt to provide some tension on the arm and then strike the center bolt of the puller with a hammer. Must be the best way to get stuck parts moving.

Good luck!

 

[aschumacher]

Use caution when banging on a center bolt. Have your knees under the steering wheel so you don't drive the shaft out the lower end of the steering box !

 

[kfreeman]

Thanks Allen. Clark doesn't need any more problems.

 

[hydroharry]

Brian W - been thinking more about your situation and decided you're really in uncharted territory. You're obviously using new CCC ISO-mounts since you mentioned the instructions included. Since we know these are different form the original versions it puts the snubber spec into a big question. I was also thinking how could you realistically measure 7-8 ft lbs of torque using a lock nut? The nut itself provides a certain amount of resistance which is very likely to vary from bolt to bolt. I don't think I'd worry about the amount of torque nor the snubber clearance. Here's what I'd do. 1st, remove any shims on the snubbers if there happen to be any. Then, tighten the nuts for the ISO-mounts, down until you see 2-3 threads come thru the nut. Then as Clark suggested try to even out the amount of squish so the mounts all appear to be about the same. If doing this puts your snubbers against the frame then I wouldn't worry about the snubbers. They are basically doing the job intended which was to avoid mis-alignment of the engine when a PTO belt was installed. Once you've got this all done then I would manually test the engine movement side to side. To do this I would stand on the left side of the tractor (carb side) and grab hold of the right side of the muffler box with one hand, and the area between the head and coil with your other hand, and see if you can pull the engine towards you. You should have a slight amount of movement (you're compressing the ISO-mounts), and it should be fairly stiff. If you can pull the engine enough to hit the left side panel, or enough such that the wing nut on the air cleaner cover hits the side panel, then you still have way to much movement in your ISO-mounts, and they need to be tightened down some more.
Hope this helps,

 

[mgonitzke]

He's certainly not in 'uncharted' territory...either the FAQ's here or Charlie's FAQ page have the info Richard C. posted about using the original length bolts and new nylock nuts tightened such that 1-2 threads shows through the nut. I've done that and it works fine.

I still wonder how Cub Cadet came up with the idea of using the torque on a lock nut to preload a rubber mount. What a stupid idea that was...there is way too much variability for that to work.

 

[hsimon]

Matt- No one ever said that engineers where always the smartest people on earth!! I shake my head every day at work when I see what some have designed and wrote directions for.