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Archive through July 09, 2010
- Thread starter bproctor
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
bzingleman
Member
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2010
- Messages
- 17
- displayname
- bill zingleman
I need a new battery for my 124.
Is there a specific type other than the generic garden and lawn tractor ones at wally mart etc?
It would be nice to get one that will hold a charge
Bill
Is there a specific type other than the generic garden and lawn tractor ones at wally mart etc?
It would be nice to get one that will hold a charge
Bill
Matt
Thanks for the advise! What all are we talking about? Just the seals & gaskets? Seems like every time I touch something, another $100 is gone. But I don't want to have $$$ Hytran leaking on my paint when this is done.
I was on your site yesterday. You did a great jod on that 100. I appreciate the free knowledge (tips & downloads). I printed your spring compressor instuctions. The last time I was on there I was in the middle of setting the timing and didn't look around.
Thanks, Bob
Thanks for the advise! What all are we talking about? Just the seals & gaskets? Seems like every time I touch something, another $100 is gone. But I don't want to have $$$ Hytran leaking on my paint when this is done.
I was on your site yesterday. You did a great jod on that 100. I appreciate the free knowledge (tips & downloads). I printed your spring compressor instuctions. The last time I was on there I was in the middle of setting the timing and didn't look around.
Thanks, Bob
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I got a bit more done on the 682 today. I found a better source for some of the metal I need for the loader subframe, but I can't pick it up until Monday. I did get my steering column back together. Here's all the shiny new parts and the cleaned old parts:
The surface of the pivot bolt was very rough for some reason, so I polished it with emery paper, and then wiped it down with mineral spirits. Actually, I cleaned all of the parts I was re-using with mineral spirits to remove anything that may have gotten into the while they were sitting around the past week. I was rather surprised how poorly the new $25 follower stud matched the profile of the worm:
Last year I ordered new bearing races for the steering box for the 100 I was going through, and the races were square and didn't fit right. Someone else here ran into this recently, too. I have since learned that using the really cheap ($10) IH-71930-C91 kit with two bearings, retainers, and races fits properly in the steering box, unlike the separate races I tried to get last year. Just thought I'd pass that along...if you're rebuilding a steering box, that's the thing you need, and it doesn't show up in the parts lookup diagram.
I got the box completely assembled, complete with Nice 605V thrust bearing and nylock nut.
I then installed it into the tractor, replaced the tie rod ends on the drag link with Heim joints, and put the steering wheel on temporarily (with anti-seize so I don't have to go through the same shenanigans to remove it again if I need to) and...wow! Steers like new! I can't wait to drive it.
I put hose clamps around the top and bottom of the box to hopefully strengthen it and avoid splitting it in half along the mold line.
After fixing our hydraulic press yesterday, I came up with this fixture to bend 1/4" thick steel flat stock to make various things.
It works great...the bends are cleaner and more accurate than they would have been if I had heated the piece with a torch and bent it. I used it to bend brackets that will attach the subframe to the axle housing.
They didn't come out so great though; the axle tubes taper, and the bend radius isn't tight enough to avoid loading the tube at the corner of the hex, so I'm going to cut this in half at the middle bend, readjust the two halves so it fits the taper of the axle tube, spreading the load out, and then weld them back together.
Bill-
If the battery isn't holding a charge, it probably isn't the battery's fault. Perhaps you have a faulty component in the charging system. A 375 CCA or so L&G battery will do just fine.
The surface of the pivot bolt was very rough for some reason, so I polished it with emery paper, and then wiped it down with mineral spirits. Actually, I cleaned all of the parts I was re-using with mineral spirits to remove anything that may have gotten into the while they were sitting around the past week. I was rather surprised how poorly the new $25 follower stud matched the profile of the worm:
Last year I ordered new bearing races for the steering box for the 100 I was going through, and the races were square and didn't fit right. Someone else here ran into this recently, too. I have since learned that using the really cheap ($10) IH-71930-C91 kit with two bearings, retainers, and races fits properly in the steering box, unlike the separate races I tried to get last year. Just thought I'd pass that along...if you're rebuilding a steering box, that's the thing you need, and it doesn't show up in the parts lookup diagram.
I got the box completely assembled, complete with Nice 605V thrust bearing and nylock nut.
I then installed it into the tractor, replaced the tie rod ends on the drag link with Heim joints, and put the steering wheel on temporarily (with anti-seize so I don't have to go through the same shenanigans to remove it again if I need to) and...wow! Steers like new! I can't wait to drive it.
I put hose clamps around the top and bottom of the box to hopefully strengthen it and avoid splitting it in half along the mold line.
After fixing our hydraulic press yesterday, I came up with this fixture to bend 1/4" thick steel flat stock to make various things.
It works great...the bends are cleaner and more accurate than they would have been if I had heated the piece with a torch and bent it. I used it to bend brackets that will attach the subframe to the axle housing.
They didn't come out so great though; the axle tubes taper, and the bend radius isn't tight enough to avoid loading the tube at the corner of the hex, so I'm going to cut this in half at the middle bend, readjust the two halves so it fits the taper of the axle tube, spreading the load out, and then weld them back together.
Bill-
If the battery isn't holding a charge, it probably isn't the battery's fault. Perhaps you have a faulty component in the charging system. A 375 CCA or so L&G battery will do just fine.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Bob-
Yes. 2 axle seals and two axle tube gaskets...only about $20 gone this time. If you haven't replaced the O-ring in the brake puck, I'd do that too. If you don't want to buy a pack of 10 O-rings to get the one you need for that, drop me an email...
Thanks for the compliments on the 100. It was a very satisfying project. Too bad I couldn't keep it. Oh well, I have an Original I need to make look better than that. I learned so much the first time, and there's so many things I can do better next time.
Yes. 2 axle seals and two axle tube gaskets...only about $20 gone this time. If you haven't replaced the O-ring in the brake puck, I'd do that too. If you don't want to buy a pack of 10 O-rings to get the one you need for that, drop me an email...
Thanks for the compliments on the 100. It was a very satisfying project. Too bad I couldn't keep it. Oh well, I have an Original I need to make look better than that. I learned so much the first time, and there's so many things I can do better next time.
I am in the process of rebuilding the motor out of my 1450 and in need of some advice. while gutting the motor i noticed that the camshaft has small pits on the lobes and the camshaft pin does not feel completely smooth. I might have access to a used cam in another motor, would this be a good alternative or should i purchase a new one. who do you guys reccomend for parts on a shoestring budget (moneys an issue for the wife but i want to do it right). thanks josh
bzingleman
Member
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2010
- Messages
- 17
- displayname
- bill zingleman
Thank you Matt.
Knowing the cold crank amps is nice to know.
This is the battery that came with the 124 and we had to jump it off when I bought it.
I was lucky that the starter generator was generating!
I really liked your job on the steering. The thrust bearing is a nice touch. Is its main function to make it smoother?
Bill
Knowing the cold crank amps is nice to know.
This is the battery that came with the 124 and we had to jump it off when I bought it.
I was lucky that the starter generator was generating!
I really liked your job on the steering. The thrust bearing is a nice touch. Is its main function to make it smoother?
Bill
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Bill-
The thrust bearing reduces friction, making the tractor steer easier. It makes a huge difference, or has on the 3 or 4 other tractors I've added it to, at least
The thrust bearing reduces friction, making the tractor steer easier. It makes a huge difference, or has on the 3 or 4 other tractors I've added it to, at least
Bill Z.
One of our fine sponsors listed above, "Kirk Engines" sells those steering upgrade kits.
One of our fine sponsors listed above, "Kirk Engines" sells those steering upgrade kits.
mgwin
Well-known member
How do you get the rod out of the lift arm lever on a 100?
Bob P.,
Do you have any more of those $5 seats? I'm looking for one.
As for the deck, you could weld some thin metal plates on the underside and fill the holes in with some metal repair epoxy before painting.
Bob P.,
Do you have any more of those $5 seats? I'm looking for one.
As for the deck, you could weld some thin metal plates on the underside and fill the holes in with some metal repair epoxy before painting.
T-Mo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2009
- Messages
- 428
- displayname
- Terry Reed
I know that the NF space is tighter, but here's the spring assist I built a few years ago for my WF 129... I thought I'd post the pics for some ideas. The long link is just all thread with the end bent 90 degrees to go into the lift bellcrank and then a cross hole drilled in it for a hairpin. The spring is from a standard fence tensioner I bought at TSC. The outer tube is exhaust pipe with a washer closing the end, spring seats against that. The tube inside was EMT, welded to a washer, the adjusting nuts seat against that. I can tighten it enough to float my QA42A (which is counterproductive for actually throwing snow..). When I mowed with the 48" deck, I usually had it set pretty loose
Gerry,
So in this picture, the lift lever is up releasing the pressure on the spring?
And then when you lower the lever, this loads the compression spring so when you do raise the lever the spring will "release" therefore "assisting" the lift lever? Interesting. If that could be adapted to the left side of the tractor it might work for a narrow frame. My problem is with the lift arm for the 3 point, there isn't much room on the right side for a narrow frame.
Gerry,
So in this picture, the lift lever is up releasing the pressure on the spring?
And then when you lower the lever, this loads the compression spring so when you do raise the lever the spring will "release" therefore "assisting" the lift lever? Interesting. If that could be adapted to the left side of the tractor it might work for a narrow frame. My problem is with the lift arm for the 3 point, there isn't much room on the right side for a narrow frame.
I bought one of those thrust bearings for the new steering gearbox I put in the 72 a couple yrs ago, the casting & some other parts are different on the new boxes and the thrust bearing & locknut won't work. So it's going on the 70-soon-to-be 100.
MATT - speaking from personal experience, the point of failure on the diecast steering housing is not the mold parting line. It'll break through the window the steering pivot arm covers and most likely angle up over the pivot bolt and back down into the window again. At least the one I broke on the CC 70 in about 1967 broke that way!
Nice work on the press and bending brake. The axle bracket looks really good. It would work fine on a CI axle. Not sure there's a good way to clamp to the alum. axle. IH switched everything to brackets bolted onto the lower axle carrier to rearend housing bolts when they switched to the alum. axle carriers.
MATT - speaking from personal experience, the point of failure on the diecast steering housing is not the mold parting line. It'll break through the window the steering pivot arm covers and most likely angle up over the pivot bolt and back down into the window again. At least the one I broke on the CC 70 in about 1967 broke that way!
Nice work on the press and bending brake. The axle bracket looks really good. It would work fine on a CI axle. Not sure there's a good way to clamp to the alum. axle. IH switched everything to brackets bolted onto the lower axle carrier to rearend housing bolts when they switched to the alum. axle carriers.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Bill Z. Personally I now go with Interstate batteries. Not much more money and the quality is unbeatable.
gotta go mow lawn again.... everyone have a godo day
gotta go mow lawn again.... everyone have a godo day
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Terry:
Yes the lift was up and IIRC, the tension nuts were backed off also - I took those pics while I was pulling the 129 apart for the cork gasket replacement. I planned on using the rod as a lift rod for the homemade hitch mount also with the rod pushing rather than pulling, but I've never got that far and will probably do a more traditional "3 point" on the 149 when I get that running..
Matt:
Dang, I knew on forgot something on my steering box rebuild - the two hose clamps.. I reground the old follower pin, using a die grinder clamped in the drill press table, I was able to get a pretty good profile on it. I wondered whether the original profile which didn't seem to match the worm, was why I ended up with those divots in the worm that I showed you the other day..
I went through two Sears L&G batteries in 25 years, I just put a "non name" auto parts special in the 129 last fall.. We'll see how long it lasts
Kentuck must still be chasin' the big one around the reservoir..
Yes the lift was up and IIRC, the tension nuts were backed off also - I took those pics while I was pulling the 129 apart for the cork gasket replacement. I planned on using the rod as a lift rod for the homemade hitch mount also with the rod pushing rather than pulling, but I've never got that far and will probably do a more traditional "3 point" on the 149 when I get that running..
Matt:
Dang, I knew on forgot something on my steering box rebuild - the two hose clamps.. I reground the old follower pin, using a die grinder clamped in the drill press table, I was able to get a pretty good profile on it. I wondered whether the original profile which didn't seem to match the worm, was why I ended up with those divots in the worm that I showed you the other day..
I went through two Sears L&G batteries in 25 years, I just put a "non name" auto parts special in the 129 last fall.. We'll see how long it lasts
Kentuck must still be chasin' the big one around the reservoir..
