Archive through January 31, 2005

[bmcmeen]

Kraig -

Hmm - your washer's against the casting. I don't remember what the book shows. My original washer was on the other end of the spring. I've got 3 of 'em now (washers, that is...).

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dale M., more:

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bryan, a datasheet on the QAxx shows the washer where it is on my QA42.

 

[chaddock]

Don thanks for the picture, i figured that the 301 would be a different from the origional 10 hp unit. I had future plans of extending the frame and hood and make a dual engine set up, i guess I'll cut the frame off and build it to fit the engine, then find another 301 to add to it. I still need some help identifying the stator/ internal alternator/ whatever you want to call it, so i can get it wired up, theoretically all i need to do is wire it to the ignition, switch and battery then i could do away with all of the wiring on the tractor? Thanks for the help.

 

[bbader]

Question for all the Cub experts here. Who offers the correct Cub paint colors in a spray can? I bought my first Cub this weekend that runs great but needs a little help in the paint department. Thanks to everyone.

Brad

 

[digger]

Bradley B,
Try clickin on one of those pretty colored boxes at the top of this page and your wish will come true!

 

[rleo]

Bradley B.
Scroll up and click on the FAQ. Question #5 will give you a chart of paint equivalents. I usually get my paint at the local Case/IH dealer

 

[pbrown]

Can anyone provide for a QA36A blower specs on the compression spring at chute adjuster mechanism I know ID is 3/8". I need sprung length. Or even maybe a McMaster-Carr part#

 

[digger]

Paul B2
It's $4.16 SRP at any Cub dealer according to the price list.

(Message edited by cproctor on January 31, 2005)

 

[digger]

Snow thrower drive shaft info,
I had a guy come by this morning to do a thrower mod for him, and his U-joints were shot, so I called the closest Cub dealer with the PN/124348-R91 and they dint have any!
BUT, These will work in case anyone has problems finding one FAST!

<font color="ff0000"><strike>New Holland PN/139842
Tiska PN/CBAN1570
Wesko PN/N1570</strike>
Charlie says these numbers WON'T work.</font>

 

[dmerkle]

Kraig M.
Thanks!!!
Steve(Son)and I will post pictures of our #40 box blade version when we are done.

 

[wrdecker]

I have a question about my QA42 again. I adjusted the chain tensioner so that the two sprockets seem to be running true and a tiny bit of slack so the bearings won't wear, however when I engage the PTO, the driveshaft seems to want to immediately "telescope", or extend itself outwards, so that the chain and sprocket are rubbing against the outer bearing race. Do I have an issue with the shaft itself, or am I still just out of adjustment on the sprocket. I have a spare adjuster ass'y to replace my badly worn one, but hate to throw it on until I decipher what's wrong. Thanks for the help.

 

[bfowler]

I have a problem with my 1968 model 124 cub.The driveshaft spins fine, but the rear wheels won't turn,unless i push down on the clutch/brake pedal approx half way to a certain position. i have no brakes and the brake lever adjusting screw is in all the way. I need support in repair manuels,whats wrong , and how to approach the problem. I repaired the driveshaft a few years ago and all spring pins are o.k. the rear wheels attemt to move in all gears when i put the clutch pedal in just the right spot.I am willing to call any one by phone, thanks bill

 

[rzenker]

have a question about a post and picture on 11/25/04 of a pwr angle blade. was this an ih option/access. or a fabricated unit. also is the hydraulic cyl. the same size as the lift cyl. on my 149? it looks like i can use a spare lift cyl. but where do the lines and valve tie in do i have to use another pump and res.? thanks in advance.

 

[tcbusch]

Bill,
I am assuming the 124 is a gear transmission and not a hydrostatic. If it is a manual transmission then there is something damaged.
The best thing is to start with the easiest part to get to. Try removing the seat assembly that is over the top of the transmission.(Assuming its anything like my 73). Look at the stub shaft that is on the input of the transmission. It should spin when the drive shaft spins. If not you have a sheared roll pin in the coupling.
The next thing to remove id the plate on the top of the transmission to look at the gears. If the gears spin then remove the back of the transmission plate to see if the differential is spinning. An finally, if you still can find the problem you will have to remove the front plate.
If its a hydro dis-regard.

 

[lbuttke]

Got me a problem here with my 102.
The driveshaft will not stop turning unless I have it in gear with the clutch depressed. This makes for starting in netural impossable, as the drive shaft rotates fast enough to grind grears when trying to shift into gear from a netural startup.
Could the sriveshaft be a bit to long and bottoming out in the polite bushing or a tad to big in diamater?
I need to solve this soon or I wont have any gears left to gring come plowday.
Any suggestions on how to solve this problem?

 

[tcbusch]

Lonny,
I would agree, the pilot bushing is sticking. The best thing to do it pull the motor and polish the bushing and shaft.
However it also could be the linkage needing adjustment. Push in the clutch and lock it. You should be able to wiggle the clutch pad back and forth a little bit. If you can't wiggle it then its to tight. Adjust the linkage.

 

[pbrown]

Charlie P
Thanks. I just assumed that spring was NLA from CC

 

[digger]

William D,
IMHO here, I don't think there is any way to not have the sprocket hit one side or the other, I think it's just the nature of the beast.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Robert Z., the hydrualic angle for the front blade that you saw in the Archives was an option from <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>. Front hydraulic outlets were also an option on some Cub Cadet models starting with the Quiet Line models 1250, 1450 and 1650.

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on February 01, 2005)