Archive through January 30, 2009
- Thread starter dfrisk
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
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- Allen Schumacher
Luther, I found out the hard way, after you type in text in the 'post' box...hit 'enter'. then post pictures with 'enter' after each pix. BTDT
Doug V: If you look long enough, you will eventually find that the dark blue wire and connection is for the Electric Lift option. Maybe we can get Roland B to modify his drawing to reflect that.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom.com
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom.com
bcarl
Well-known member
Matt,
Yes, I meant to say coiled spring pin for the driveshaft. The more common spring pin found in hardware stores is a slotted spring pin, which is much weaker. A picture of each so I can remember (I hope). Thanks for setting me straight.
Yes, I meant to say coiled spring pin for the driveshaft. The more common spring pin found in hardware stores is a slotted spring pin, which is much weaker. A picture of each so I can remember (I hope). Thanks for setting me straight.
Here are the globs-gunk-whatever you want to call that crap:
rear end cover
Not a good sign when water comes out
rear end cover
Not a good sign when water comes out
Doug V Does your 127 still have the original Rubber and fabric covered wiring (each wire in the harness is insulated with rubber and a color coded fabric ) instead of plastic coated wires? My 126 experienced a total wiring failure where the harness runs inside the frame rail beside the engine. Very difficult to see a failure in that location with everything assembled. Examine the wires where they are visable to see what you have. New harnesses are available. If you have to change the harness it can be done with the engine in place,but it is a real stinker. I also did the harness on my 147,have to take the engine out,but that is the way to go if you can, IMHO. If you have the replacement harness already, it is not likely to fail unless it has been damaged (cut, pinched, etc). It is probably something else,but is something to keep in mind.
rbedell
Well-known member
Doug V:
In my wiring diagram, there is indicated from the "I" terminal on the Ignition Switch, a Navy colored wire. This depiction, indicates a terminal like this....
This is a Female Quick Disconnect Connector in a Molex housing.
This terminal can be used for a variety of applications, ie: Electric Lift option, Hour Meter, Windshield Wiper Motor (on deluxe cab), Auxiliary Flasher Light, Elec Pump Motor on sprayer attachment, etc.
In my wiring diagram, there is indicated from the "I" terminal on the Ignition Switch, a Navy colored wire. This depiction, indicates a terminal like this....
This is a Female Quick Disconnect Connector in a Molex housing.
This terminal can be used for a variety of applications, ie: Electric Lift option, Hour Meter, Windshield Wiper Motor (on deluxe cab), Auxiliary Flasher Light, Elec Pump Motor on sprayer attachment, etc.
Last fall I learned that my 147 had never had a fluid filter change since new.I drained the dif. and removed the filter and let it drain for 24 hrs. I then cleaned the best i could with cleaners and refilled dif. and new filter.After about 10 hours of operation i changed the filter and cut it open and it was probally about 10% stopped up with gunk. I will change the oil and filter again this spring. Wouldn't have believed it could still be working after 35 years of abuse with same fluid. This has been the best tractor i have owned.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
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- Sep 20, 2001
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Luther. Nice find.
Reading about the "What oil to use in my hydro?", reminds me of a friend that bought a 318 JD to mow his lawn. The hydro worked really sluggish. So, he bought the necessary items for an oil change. When he drained the oil it was discovered that the PO had put 90w transmission gear lube in the rearend. So he drained and filled with the correct JD recommended oil and it still is sluggish. He tolerates the critter since he only puts around 20 hours a year on the tractor mowing. He didn't flush the system or replace any springs which may or may not have helped just a little.
Reading about the "What oil to use in my hydro?", reminds me of a friend that bought a 318 JD to mow his lawn. The hydro worked really sluggish. So, he bought the necessary items for an oil change. When he drained the oil it was discovered that the PO had put 90w transmission gear lube in the rearend. So he drained and filled with the correct JD recommended oil and it still is sluggish. He tolerates the critter since he only puts around 20 hours a year on the tractor mowing. He didn't flush the system or replace any springs which may or may not have helped just a little.
MARLIN - Man....90 weight is SO far away from what those Hydro's need to live a long life.... I think the 318 still had the Sundstrand #15 didn't it? I know somebody who put ATF in a Hydro. You read Sundstrand's tech sheets on the #15 and they say it's O-K. Far as the rest of the rearend it's really hard to hurt the rearend of a Cubbie.
jmacdonald
Well-known member
Guys I am still fighting with my front PTO clutch on my 125. No matter what I do or what adjustments I make it refuses to release enough to stop my snow thrower spinning. A number of years ago I rebuilt a mod 70 front PTO and it worked great first try. I did manage to warm my 125 up then attached my thrower belt and got the 1' plus of snow out of the yard. My parts box is stamped 759-3490, but I am wondering are these actually 759-3490 parts or could they (some) be 759-3489. Is the friction disk thicker on the 759-3489 rebuild kit for instance? I will try and get a picture uploaded tomorrow if it might help. I just need to take the PTO clutch off again. Unfortunalely I am getting quite good at taking off and reinstalling the clutch. I do have the correct adjusment gauge.
OK so I'll pull the rear cover plate and clean out the gunk. I'm looking at the parts look up but not sure if I've found the right parts. can someone who know a bit more than me check my work.
my tractor is a 982 with an Onan engine no rear pto
gasket - 721-3015
filter - 723-0314
anything else besides 2 gallons of hy-tran? and a big figgin drain pan?
-everett
my tractor is a 982 with an Onan engine no rear pto
gasket - 721-3015
filter - 723-0314
anything else besides 2 gallons of hy-tran? and a big figgin drain pan?
-everett
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
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- displayname
- Gerry Ide
James:
Will it slip at all when the lever is in the disengaged position? (Can you turn the auger by hand and force the clutch it to slip at all?) I'm asking because this might be the difference between something totally hanging up and a misadjustment ..
I surfaced all the mating surfaces on my 129's PTO with fine sandpaper on a steel plate - I've seen a few posts where the clutch plates were actually surface ground in a machine shop, but I'd only go to that extreme if things were really warped ( you can check this first with a machinist's straight edge and then by using prussian blue (or a black felt marker) on the steel clutch surfaces and using the fine sandpaper on steel plate to surface them. If all of the dye goes away, the surface is flat - if there are some shiny spots and some spots still dyed, the clutch surface is warped and may need either the simple surfacing with sandpaper, or surface grinding.
You might also have a bad bearing, but you'll find that pretty quickly.
As a comment that may be considered heresy, I, in the end, had to set my screws slightly looser, I figured that either the fiber (driven) plate was a little too thick or maybe my brain was..but the PTO has been together for at least 10 years now and doesn't slip....
Will it slip at all when the lever is in the disengaged position? (Can you turn the auger by hand and force the clutch it to slip at all?) I'm asking because this might be the difference between something totally hanging up and a misadjustment ..
I surfaced all the mating surfaces on my 129's PTO with fine sandpaper on a steel plate - I've seen a few posts where the clutch plates were actually surface ground in a machine shop, but I'd only go to that extreme if things were really warped ( you can check this first with a machinist's straight edge and then by using prussian blue (or a black felt marker) on the steel clutch surfaces and using the fine sandpaper on steel plate to surface them. If all of the dye goes away, the surface is flat - if there are some shiny spots and some spots still dyed, the clutch surface is warped and may need either the simple surfacing with sandpaper, or surface grinding.
You might also have a bad bearing, but you'll find that pretty quickly.
As a comment that may be considered heresy, I, in the end, had to set my screws slightly looser, I figured that either the fiber (driven) plate was a little too thick or maybe my brain was..but the PTO has been together for at least 10 years now and doesn't slip....
Doug V,
A clicking solenoid with no starting action generally means that your battery is bad or weak and needs a charge or you have a bad wire connection. You mentioned you replaced the battery but was it charged up good before you put it in? I'd recommend you put it on a charger overnight and clean the battery and ground connects and then try starting before you troubleshoot further. Next I would check the terminal connections on the solenoid and clean them. If that don't fix it then check the solenoid itself as they occasionally go bad as the contacts get pitted up.
Myron B,
Electrons actually move better through copper at colder temps as the resistance decreases with temperature but it takes more of them to turn a cold engine and where bad wire connections can cause problems.
A clicking solenoid with no starting action generally means that your battery is bad or weak and needs a charge or you have a bad wire connection. You mentioned you replaced the battery but was it charged up good before you put it in? I'd recommend you put it on a charger overnight and clean the battery and ground connects and then try starting before you troubleshoot further. Next I would check the terminal connections on the solenoid and clean them. If that don't fix it then check the solenoid itself as they occasionally go bad as the contacts get pitted up.
Myron B,
Electrons actually move better through copper at colder temps as the resistance decreases with temperature but it takes more of them to turn a cold engine and where bad wire connections can cause problems.
