Archive through January 23, 2007

[digger]

A while back a guy emailed the forum asking if we would like to have his 122 Operators manual to maybe help others out since he no longer had his Cub.
So!
Out of the generosity off his heart he sent the manual to me AT NO CHARGE to scan and make available to anyone that might not have one.
His name is Mike Capalbo from N.Y. state.
It goes to show ya that there are still good guys out there willing to share and ask nothing in return.
THANKS MIKE.

 

[eford]

I come across similar manuals/brochures, is there any in particular that are missing? I'd be happy to keep an extra keen eye out for em.

 

[dfrisk]

Ken, Kraig - Scotchbrite pads work good too. But they're too fragile for the 4-1/2" angle grinders. Typically a drill 2500-4000 rpm works good.
We found some small 2" dia. wire brushes for Our die grinders....22,000 rpm rated.... They're sure handly too. But expensive. I just got My second 4-1/2" angle grinder just over a year ago....It gets the thin cutoff wheels mounted on it...the old grinder gets those sanding flapwheels which REALLY work nice for dressing down welds. I did some sandblasting back before Xmas. Worked fine but I have to make some sort of enclosure so I can recycle the abrasive. Plus it was messy....blasting outside....so it was COLD!

 

[bcorn]

All good points, I use my grinder with the "wire wheel of death" because if it gets loose its gonna hurt. All sorts of grinders ect. For removing paint I use my number one tool Poerter Cable orbital sander. Those loop sanding pads are good as they get. Different grits for different work.

When ever you are removing paint you got to be careful!! Dust mask, even wore my respirator a few times. Still got to be careful of sand swirls, like to wet sand finish w/360 wet sand paper. Primer nothing but primer/filler combination. If you choose you can wet sand to finish w/2000 grit.

Sandblasting is good but most people either pit or overextend their metal. Then you have to use metal to metal (my choice) for filling.

Day in day out it's the Porter Cable for even using on welds. And for KentuckyKen it works great for sanding JB Weld!

Pops

 

[dfrisk]

BEN - Everything We blasted was HEAVY. Suspension components....Hard to hurt a 50# forging as long as You have the machined bores masked off. It's terrible what all this salt does to a 14 yr old truck frame.

 

[kweaver]

Dennis - get the Black Beauty blast material as it has little if any dust. DO NOT get ... hang on ... Black Lighting as it is nothing but dust. My 6 horse shop vac can't keep it pulled out of the blast cabinet fast enough.

On what is good for power stripping paint , you remember the little write up I did on the 3M ... crap forget their name so here's the pic from back in (pic says 2/00 but I think it may have been earlier) Kraig check your archive

HAD ME WORRIED CAUSE THE FORUM WASN'T RESPONDING FOR A WHILE >>>>

Digger you have the hood up ?

back to post ...

Those 3M thingys are real 'pensive but do they work GREAT! I use them to clean paint and crap off aluminum before welding it. Those were sent to me by an un-named source to test. He is un - named because I forget! and he didn't want his name mentioned then.

Ben - you'll be meeting that little red feller if you keep that up ...

 

[kweaver]

Dennis - this is RUST!

 

[digger]

Kentuck,
No!
That's a typical rice burner after 6 months in the states.

There was a server that only affects your neck of the hills that needed to be rebooted!

 

[kweaver]

I believe they rust like that from the salt air / water on the cruise here !

I'll send ya pics of a rebuild

I was worried that you might have been under the hood with the golden screw driver trying to get MORE POWER !

 

[dfrisk]

KEN - We've looked for that Black Magic and haven't been able to find it yet. I've heard it's good stuff before! The parts We were blasting weren't Quite as rusty as that frame but close! First pass was done with the welding chipping hammer!

 

[digger]

We have not had much yellow show up lately!

 

[jluckey]

Denny-

I agree with Ken, I use nothing but Black Beauty, it is the best stuff. I am lucky that I work very close to a stone quarry/supply distrubition center. I get 100# bags for I think 9 bucks.

J

 

[dfrisk]

JONATHAN - I work about half a block from where We used to buy Our glass beading beads about two jobs ago....I'll have to call them about that Black Beauty... We were using alum. oxide and it worked great but was MANY times more expensive. We tried cheap playground sand and it was Really dusty and didn't cut real well plus kept plugging up.
CHARLIE - To keep this on topic My cabinent will be large enough to blast Cub Cadet parts in.

 

[eford]

That stuff is great!black beauty, My friends dad uses it on rails and he's done a couple other big things like a plow and they were good and clean when he was done.

 

[kweaver]

 

[jrjames]

Well it's not very bright yellow but it's gonna be! I figured that my 7 year old won't let me tear apart his model 100 to do a full restore on it so I bought my own. Here's the "before" photo. I hope to have an "after" shot in about 8 months.

Randy

 

[kweaver]

Just wait 'til your 7 year old lays claim to that one too That's how a stable of cubs gets started

 

[bnolte]

Lonny,
I'm getting ready to tackle a similar problem with the 102 once spring comes. Worn shift forks are one possibility, another is the gear teeth themselves get rounded off.

 

[pdorow]

kentucy ken,

They would be called rol-locs from 3M---sold them on the SNAP~ON truck when I was a dealer.

 

[gcoleman]

What is a good name/type of bondo, primer, and clear coat to restore a cub with... I know what paint colors to cross reference (935 white,and 483B yellow, thanks to the FAQ's) I'm re doin my 149 this spring, and want to do it right, and do it once... thanks for the help.