TED - Two frequent posters here have published several books explaining the origin of these little tractors. There's a pretty little blue square above this form with a real nicely restored 122 on it.... Click on the square and get your credit card out.... and enjoy the reading. Hank actually did a REAL fine job on this book.... and Apostle Ken Updike has two books out on the FARMALL CUB and CUB Cadet tractors. As Hank & Ken kidded a couple weeks ago there are RED BOOKS, BLUE BOOKS, and Yellow Books.
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Archive through January 20, 2006
- Thread starter dfrisk
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Ted B,
The blade/spring assemblies are pretty much common except for the very early blades on Originals and maybe 70/100's. On quick attach style mounted blades, you can change subframes on the blade/spring assemblies to mount it on respective narrow frames or wideframes. Hope this helps.
Ron
The blade/spring assemblies are pretty much common except for the very early blades on Originals and maybe 70/100's. On quick attach style mounted blades, you can change subframes on the blade/spring assemblies to mount it on respective narrow frames or wideframes. Hope this helps.
Ron
tbordeleau
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- ted Bordeleau
Ron:
Thanks, that answered my question perfectly.
Thanks, that answered my question perfectly.
Chuck,
The answer is no, so you might as well send that spring assist to me as I have no hydro lift IH cub cadets.
Actually I think it helps out the hydro lift by helping lift from a different point, thus helping to save wear and tear on the hydro compunits.
The answer is no, so you might as well send that spring assist to me as I have no hydro lift IH cub cadets.
Actually I think it helps out the hydro lift by helping lift from a different point, thus helping to save wear and tear on the hydro compunits.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
It won't make any difference with the lifting part...BUT, it can be very useful for setting up your deck to float. Moderate spring tension "preloads" the deck so that it is much more quick to respond to high spots in the yard and float over them. It is a technique that is especially useful in conjunction with the front anti scalp wheels and the "suspended" deck set-up (see FAQ).
Ted B,
You're welcome. Forgot to mention that the wideframes need a different lift arm bracket that is attached to the blade/spring assembly with three 1/2" dia. bolts. It has to extend outboard farther for the wideframes so the lift rod going back to the tractor lift arm will clear the frame. I have an extra one for wideframes 8/9's and Quietlines if you need one.
Ron
You're welcome. Forgot to mention that the wideframes need a different lift arm bracket that is attached to the blade/spring assembly with three 1/2" dia. bolts. It has to extend outboard farther for the wideframes so the lift rod going back to the tractor lift arm will clear the frame. I have an extra one for wideframes 8/9's and Quietlines if you need one.
Ron
Got in some play time tonite with the new blower. We had 6 inches of really wet snow here. I see why the Apostle loves V-rods. My 18 Command sounds way cool snorting with a 451 blower. I may have to plow with this one at Travis'.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Took the day off to start on a weekend marathon plow tractor build.
Stripped it down and took it for a wash.
Fixed the shift forks.
Pulled the clutch shaft (needed to change the operation of a few of the bell cranks for the gear drive functions)
And did a few trial fits of the drive line.
Tomorrow starts the serious work of beefing up the driveline brackets to handle the MWSC clutch etc. Need to order a long coupler for the back end of the driveshaft. Looks like one washer under the front motor mounts gets me a near perfect alignment.
When that's done, theres a partially tore down KT-17-II that needs to be freshened up for plow duty!!!!
Stripped it down and took it for a wash.
Fixed the shift forks.
Pulled the clutch shaft (needed to change the operation of a few of the bell cranks for the gear drive functions)
And did a few trial fits of the drive line.
Tomorrow starts the serious work of beefing up the driveline brackets to handle the MWSC clutch etc. Need to order a long coupler for the back end of the driveshaft. Looks like one washer under the front motor mounts gets me a near perfect alignment.
When that's done, theres a partially tore down KT-17-II that needs to be freshened up for plow duty!!!!
cengelking
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- Chris Engelking
Finally snow!!! 2072 is down, but the 149 is a pushing SOB!!!
Got to be to work a 3 AM for the village. I plow in a Sterling tandem with a 12' Schmidt Wausau snowplow, and 14 ton of salt in the back. Poor mailboxes, they don't have a chance with wet heavy snow.
Got to be to work a 3 AM for the village. I plow in a Sterling tandem with a 12' Schmidt Wausau snowplow, and 14 ton of salt in the back. Poor mailboxes, they don't have a chance with wet heavy snow.
tbordeleau
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- ted Bordeleau
Ron:
Thanks, I'll keep you in mind if I DO attempt to graft a NF blade on a WF frame. But that project is for the spring; right now, I need to get my 1450 started so I can blow any upcoming snow.
Ignition switch wiring question:
Looking at the 1450 Schematic that R. Bedell was good enough to provide for all of us, I don't understand the connection from the "D" terminal of the PTO switch to the neutral switch to the "starter coil".
My rig does not have/use a neutral safety switch(apparently by-passed by the PO), and I can't figure out what the "starter coil" is. I understand what a neutral safety switch is, but what is a starter coil, and where is it? I can identify the solenoid and ignition coil and starter itself, but the starter coil is baffling me.
Basically, I'd like to know where to run the "D" wire off my PTO switch in the absence of a neutral switch, and having no idea what/where a "starter coil" is.
Thanks to all!
Thanks, I'll keep you in mind if I DO attempt to graft a NF blade on a WF frame. But that project is for the spring; right now, I need to get my 1450 started so I can blow any upcoming snow.
Ignition switch wiring question:
Looking at the 1450 Schematic that R. Bedell was good enough to provide for all of us, I don't understand the connection from the "D" terminal of the PTO switch to the neutral switch to the "starter coil".
My rig does not have/use a neutral safety switch(apparently by-passed by the PO), and I can't figure out what the "starter coil" is. I understand what a neutral safety switch is, but what is a starter coil, and where is it? I can identify the solenoid and ignition coil and starter itself, but the starter coil is baffling me.
Basically, I'd like to know where to run the "D" wire off my PTO switch in the absence of a neutral switch, and having no idea what/where a "starter coil" is.
Thanks to all!
rbedell
Well-known member
Ted B:
The "D" is the terminal identification located on the back of the switch:
The wire from terminal D goes to the Neutral Start Switch.
The Starter Coil is the same as the Magnetic Switch Coil or Starter Solenoid Coil.
If you don't have a Neutral Safety Switch, then the Orange wire from terminal D of the PTO switch would go direct to the Starter Solenoid Coil (or what ever term you want to use).
(Message edited by rbedell on January 21, 2006)
The "D" is the terminal identification located on the back of the switch:
The wire from terminal D goes to the Neutral Start Switch.
The Starter Coil is the same as the Magnetic Switch Coil or Starter Solenoid Coil.
If you don't have a Neutral Safety Switch, then the Orange wire from terminal D of the PTO switch would go direct to the Starter Solenoid Coil (or what ever term you want to use).
(Message edited by rbedell on January 21, 2006)
Bryan,
YUP, <font size="-2">sticking my chest out and adjusting my pants)</font> had to go out and flex some
"snow removal"
muscle this morning. Those 16 ponies were all pullin' together. Kicked a$$ and took no prisioners while the neighbor were toying around with the 21" Toro's. I measured 11" of White Blanket here.
(Message edited by thoffman on January 21, 2006)
YUP, <font size="-2">sticking my chest out and adjusting my pants)</font> had to go out and flex some
(Message edited by thoffman on January 21, 2006)
Steve B. That is looking real good! Can't wait to see more in progress pictures. Do you think the creeper will hold up to 17 horse? I have a creeper in the cabinet that I was thinking of tossing in the 1000 plow tractor.
tbordeleau
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- ted Bordeleau
Roland-
Thanks for the clarification, that makes sense. I was thinking the "solenoid" and "starter coil" must be one and the same, but the little diagram put them in two different places. Thanks again.
Tom-
Loved the pants-hiking and twirling IH symbols! My visual when I read it was Barney Fife gloating over some law-enforcement daring-do. Keep up the good comedy!!
Thanks for the clarification, that makes sense. I was thinking the "solenoid" and "starter coil" must be one and the same, but the little diagram put them in two different places. Thanks again.
Tom-
Loved the pants-hiking and twirling IH symbols! My visual when I read it was Barney Fife gloating over some law-enforcement daring-do. Keep up the good comedy!!
