Archive through January 19, 2008

[tgallagher]

Charlie,

I tried that earlier but the photo isn't that great. It does not even show the pins.

model 86

 

[dtanner]

hi guys had a great Cub day. found this little gem local and FREE lol. i gust have to rebuild orings and some broken parts. now where to find creeper parts ...?.need the right drive shaft for a 100 that will soon have a rebuilt creeper.

 

[digger]

Don T.
Man, your not supposed to break that input shaft gear, they are pricey!

And that Planet Carrier assembly is NLA.

 

[theaton]

Don T, nice find. Sponsers above carry the parts you need. I think?

I guess some guys have all of the luck, I have been tryin to find a creeper for under 200 bones. I am not lucky enough to ever find one for free.

 

[theaton]

Good eye Charlie, I have never seen a complete one or a disassembled one so I wouldnt know!

Don T, maybe thats why it was free! I am still jealous

 

[mgonitzke]

Todd H.-

Don't feel too bad. From the looks of that, he's gonna need $200+ in parts to fix that back up. It costs about $45 for a new bearing, seal and 0-rings. The Input shaft gear is like $85 and I don't even want to know what that NLA stuff would cost if you could find someone with a NOS part...

Looks like the collar is bad too, along with the part that moves the collar... I bought a parts creeper once, I'm glad I did that... Best $5 I ever spent...

 

[bnolte]

Got a chance to try the 129 with the QA-42 out on about 4 inches of snow on Thursday here in MD. No problems with the blower, but a nagging problem I seem to have with head gaskets made another appearance as I was taking it home. Unfortunately, this time it took out more than just the head gasket, and the cylinder head was turned into a pound or two of scrap aluminum where a channel burned in the head near the exhaust valve, and out one of the bolt holes. I got her running again with a spare head, a used head gasket, and some Grade 5 bolts, since the replacement head has the bosses near the bottom of the fins instead of the top.

I've purchased a new head gasket and some appropriate length Grade 8 bolts and flat washers to hold things in. I plan to clean up the mating surface of the block a bit and check the replacement head for warpage before I torque everything down. I've not had all that great a luck with head gaskets on the K-series motors over the years, I was wondering what else I can do besides retorqueing the head bolts after running it a while. Would lock washers help?

Anyway, here's a couple of shots of the damage:

Here's the Bottom of the head

Here's a closeup

Top of Head, it even melted the fins!

 

[mgonitzke]

Bruce N.-

I bet you continue to blow head gaskets because your head is warped. Get a sheet of glass that is at least 1/4" thick and place the head on it. Now take your .003" feeler gauge and try to get it under the head anywhere. If you can get the end of the gauge into the combustion chamber anywhere, your head is too warped and needs to be lapped. This is very easy, simply get some 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper and fasten it to the sheet of glass. Get a cup of water and wet sand the head, moving the head in figure-8's or circles, alternating directions every so often. When the gasket surface is a uniform smooth texture, the sandpaper has touched the entire gasket surface. Now, clean the head up real good, clean up your glass sheet, and place the head on the glass and re-check it. You should not be able to get your smallest feeler gauge under it. When I do this, I can't get a .001" gauge under mine. Now, clean the deck of the block very well, chase the holes, reassemble with a genuine Kohler gasket and grade 8 bolts, put anti-seize or oil on the bolts, torque to the spec in the manual in the order specified, and run the tractor at 1/2-3/4 throttle for 30 minutes, let it cool, retorque, and you're good to go. Don't use lock washers, it'll change the torque value and you probably won't have the head tight enough.

 

[dtanner]

well everything bottom right is damaged and will need replacement parts from somewhere. i need bearing seals and a few parts i see can be bought above but there are more broken gears than good. oh well i will make up a parts list and see what to do with it.

 

[aaytay]

Matt-
Nice write-up on replacing a head-gasket.

Bruce-
I notice that the head you pictured has, what looks to me, like signs of being very hot above the exhaust valve.

Once you do what Matt suggests to refit a new head-gasket, go through the engine to make sure everything is adjusted per the manual's spec.

Start with the points and spark-plug gap. (Are you using a correct spark-plug for your engine?)

Then adjust the carb to make sure you're not running too lean or too rich.

Something about that head tells me that there's more to this story than just a bad head-gasket. Let us know what else you find.

 

[dtanner]

also found a sickle bar mower and other parts will post tomorrow . later DonT

 

[thoffman]

Ken-tucky,
9.5 X 18 AG's (R-1's)(352-616B)
I see that Firestone makes 'em but no one has 'em. I did find a set out in the Denver area but big CHA-CHING to get them here.

 

[aaytay]

Looks like Don had some help with that creeper-teardown.....

 

[mgonitzke]

Don T.-

Look a bit more closely at the splined collar on the mid-lower left. It looks extremely worn as well.

 

[dtanner]

Matt it is a mess but if i can find the parts its got a home in my 100. i don`t understand where the 3 small gears go (cluster) and can`t tell looking at this part list above. i`ll need more info to repair this.

 

[rkrueger]

Hello all, I went to try to start my 149 for the first time today, and when I hooked the batt. up it started to crank over all by itself! I had to unhook it to get it to stop, nothing else I tryed would get it to stop cranking. I had this happen before on a 106, and the voltage regulator was the problem, but on this 149 it looks to be a new one already any ideas, or do I just have another haunted cub Thanks

 

[junderwood]

Don,

The three gears go on the three pins on the piece at the back end of Art's arrow. They then ride on the gear on the inside of the case to form a planetary gear.

 

[aschumacher]

Don, judging by sizes I'd say the cluster gears go on the end of the collar just to the left of the shifter gear. Good thing you got it for free...scrap steel is 2-1/2 cent a lb.

 

[mgonitzke]

Don T.-

Allen is correct. Do you have a chassis service manual? You'll need that for reassembly. You have to put those together right or they won't work. BTDT.

 

[kweaver]

Bruce - That head isn't toast

Tom - I'll see what I can find. Hey have you tried Tucker Tire ? That's the only place I could find my 7.00x15 AGs.
From their website-
"Front tires,Implement, Lawn and Garden,Rear Tractor R-1,R-2,R-3, and R-4 Industrial"