Archive through January 11, 2005

[thoffman]

Steve "B",
In the 10:09 post,it looks like you're doing the one cheek method of snowplowing.

 

[sogle]

hey there guys was wondering what all I need to put a rear hitch on back of a 682 for a plow ,disk,etc...

thanks

 

[ndorn]

Ok guys. I got my 782D frame stripped down to just the frame. Since this is a full restore, but with the intent to still use it for work, I would like to have the frame powder coated. Obviously that is a problem because most places don't tend to have IH red. Do you know of any place that does, or in your expierience, is it better for me just to have it painted and clear coated with a few extra coats. I know that the paint/clear method would LOOK great, but being that I will be using it for work, there a several pluses to haveing it powder coated. I worked at a body shop for 7 years and have continued on my own since, so I can handle the painting part very well, but again, I would rather have it powder coated for the extra durability.

 

[dfrisk]

NEIL - That pic of Wyatt's Cub Kraig posted He didn't even have the suitcase weights mounted on the back! I've seen Wyatt run 100# per rear wheel, & 210+# on the rear weight bracket..... Then stand on the rear suitcase weights and bounce the frt wheels off the ground..... Your 782 will be fine! Guy I bought My 982 plowed with His 782 at PD #1 with 1 or 2 weights per wheel & about 100# of MWSC 10# suitcases mounted right behind the seat..... PLUS 100# of suitcases up front! When I have a lot of ice to deal with I have an additional 80# or so I bolt to the rear hitch of My 72 and I don't give it a second thought..... and I weigh around 175# also.

 

[kupdike]

Neil....Load em up with weights. The limiting factor of Cub Cadets is not power, its traction! I'm slowly buiding a 982 with P.S.D. (Plow Special Designed) technology. This may need to have over 400 lbs of movable weight added to obtain the results I expect from running a 2 btm semi mounted plow (being made for this also).

When at plow days, I load my 782 up with iron suitcases. If the tractor is too heavy in the front or rear, you can move them. Or you can always take weights off. Its hard to gain weight in the field.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, is this the guy? He has weights on the back but I don't see any up front. I think he was at more than one plow day. I'll have to look through the archives.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's a shot of Ken and his 782 loaded up with weights at PDV6.

 

[ncostello]

There's a local combine graveyard near here (20 miles) that, from what I hear, also has a huge selection of all types of suitcase weights. Ron here at work said he's got a decent stack of small ones for Ford tractors. And the good thing is practically everything he sells is "$25". So maybe I can stack in on for cheap.

Now I just need to pick some and design the rack for them. Hopefully they'll be un-marked weights so I can have the local machine shop put some IH markings on the outside two. Thanks for all the photos and help.

 

[bgolden]

The nylon cooling fan on a 149 has several broken blades and needs to be replaced. Is there a two-piece fan that can be bolted on the drive shaft?

 

[digger]

Bill G,
I was at my local Cub dealer last year and they had some WAY after market fans not made by MTD that were 2 part, BUT, from what they said they were junk and sent them back. Your better off bitin the bullet and getting the right fan, it's not that hard to remove the driveshaft.

 

[dfrisk]

Kraig - Yep, That's Gordon Solom on His 782 waving to Us..... I thought He had MWSC weights behind the seat but they're the 42# "Cub Cadet Weights" And there was only one set of IH rear weights and nothing on the front.... Short of watching My PD #1 video again I didn't know where to look for that pic. Gordon was at PD #2 but didn't plow. Ken always loads up with weights.... Gosh..... You think He shows up at PD's just to plow or something! There may be Cubs with more HP than His 782 but I doubt anyone covers as much ground as fast as He does!

 

[wcompton]

FWIW the only reason I ever use front weights is to I can just steer. My 169 with the Titans can grunt out enough that I get a real light front end. Usually more than two 45's on the front is overkill, not to mention it almost seems to noticeably displace weight from the back.

 

[bwatson]

The other day I was at Wally World picking up a case of motor oil and noticed they had Mobil 1 in 0w-20. Anybody ever use this oil in their C.C.? Somebody a page or 2 back was having trouble getting their engine started. Wondering if maybe like me they forgot to switch from 30w to something lighter?

 

[mmasheris]

I use cloride and 2 wheel weghts on my red ones seem to have enough traction

 

[digger]

Mike M,
Speaking of traction on your Red Cub, I think this was takin last summer right before you twisted off your 2nd axle or was it the 3rd?

 

[lbaker]

I need some help! Fpund out the gas pouring out the newly rebuilt carb on my 100 is due to gas in the float. Question is, how do you get it out? Is an original 100 kohler carb, so are new flosts available?

 

[dkirk]

Lyle,

Drill a .032 diameter hole in the float, drain gas out. Put soapy water all over exterior of float and lightly pressurize with a rubber tip air nozzle. Look for bubbles indicating cracks. Solder cracks closed with rozen core solder. Recheck with the soapy water test. If all is bubble free, solder the hole closed. She's good to go.

 

[jconway]

LBAKER
TO FIX THE FLOAT YOU HEAT IT CAREFULY WITH YOUR
TORCH AND WATCH FOR VAPOR TO COME OUT THAT WILL
SHOW YOU WHERE THE HOLE IS.THEN YOU SOLDER THE HOLE.USE AS LOW A HEAT AS YOU CAN OTHER WISE
YOU HAVE A BOMB

 

[farmall gray]

Steve B,
What kind of photo resizer are you using?


I tried soldering a float once and didn't have much luck. It seemed like it was building up pressure inside and kept pushing the solder out
of the hole whenever I got it covered. I did have luck dipping one in gas tank sealer. For a kohler
I would just buy a new float.

 

[dkamp]

To add what Cap'n Kirk said... after you drill that hole, drain the gas out of the float... when you put your air-hose to it, turn the float every-which-way... when the crack or leaking point is down, any remaining gasoline will be ejected out of the back. Use a soldering gun or iron- 100w should be plenty. Be VERY careful to make sure there's no gasoline left in there, or you'll have more than a crack, and less than a full set of eyebrows.

You CAN buy another... the brass ones are good...

Todd's right, the air inside will expand while soldering- the way you counter this, is to hold the float in one (gloved) hand, with an ice-cube in your palm, lay the float in there, squeeze lightly, solder, release, then done.

(Message edited by dkamp on January 12, 2005)