Archive through January 07, 2009
- Thread starter nhasson
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Small world. I used to live in the town that Monster Cub cadet was pictured. Hanford, California. I recognized the town hall building. Great town in the middle of the valley.
Now, it's 10 degrees here in Iowa. No snow, so no cub time.
Now, it's 10 degrees here in Iowa. No snow, so no cub time.
I apologize if someone already answered this for me, but how do I test the charging system on the Onan motor that came in the 982. I've never dealt with a stator type charging system and have no idea where to begin.
When the tractor is running the battery reads about 12.5 volts and slowly drops from there. If I turn on the front PTO clutch it drops quickly and the PTO will stop working in about 15 minuets, and the battery will be pretty drained. once I charge it back up everything works fine for a while.
-everettdale
When the tractor is running the battery reads about 12.5 volts and slowly drops from there. If I turn on the front PTO clutch it drops quickly and the PTO will stop working in about 15 minuets, and the battery will be pretty drained. once I charge it back up everything works fine for a while.
-everettdale
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Everett-
Get yourself a decent multi-meter and read this:
http://cubfaq.com/SolidStateChg.html
You're basically going to be looking at testing the output of the stator itself....
Get yourself a decent multi-meter and read this:
http://cubfaq.com/SolidStateChg.html
You're basically going to be looking at testing the output of the stator itself....
hello everyone i have a question abt my lift on my 73 i was trying to unscrew the push button and well i broke it right off of the threaded rod in there can i just replace a part internaly or do i have to buy a whole new lift/rockshaft
Just got my first 124 last night from the original owner, of course it was not running, the battery we jumped had a loose terminal and would start although when I disconnect the jumper cables the tractor shuts off?? Any ideas for a newbe?
ANDREW - Which part exactly did You break? The push button or the rod it threads onto? If You broke the rod You have to make a new one because they and the whole rockshaft assembly are "NLA" last time I checked for one for My 72 about 5-6 yrs ago....72 is the same as a 73 except for some cosmetic details. If You broke just the button, the repair isn't quite as complex but close. The whole rockshaft has to be removed, four bolts, two on each side that support the rear of the foot rests plus the small capscrew on each side that holds the front of the foot rests have to come off, plus the two bolts that hold the quadrant (curved piece with the notches on the bottom) the lift lever rod engages. Once You have the rockshaft out the release rod pushes up and You can remove the remains of the push button. Parts are/were still available when I fixed My 72. The release rod will not come out of the top of the lift handle because of the bend on the bottom and the remains of the button on the top, plus the release rod hits the rockshaft and has to bend to be removed which makes it bind inside the handle and won't work so leave it in the handle if it's O-K. You should replace the spring and there's a special flatwasher or two in there that I would replace also. Good time to replace Your "float Button" on the front of the lift handle if Your's is missing or sticks. Once You have the parts inside the top of the lever the new button simply threads onto the release rod then You can reinstall the rockshaft onto the tractor. If You can get the front capscrews out and back into the frt support of the foot rests let Us all know how You do it. I've tried EVERY combination of socket, u-joint, swivel, & extension I have, every combination wrench known to man and they are tough to get out & back in. You can easily see them, touch them, but defy every tool I own! They're not stuck or too tight, just can't get a wrench on them then be able to turn the wrench!
If the release rod twisted off, I think it's 5/16" round rod, thread one end of a three ft length of rod (5/16" coarse threads)from a hardware store to accept the new top button, slide it into the handle with all the springs & washers required, cut the rod to an approx. length of the old one first before You install the replacement rod, then with a propane torch, MAPP Gas torch, acetylene torch, heat the bottom of the rod to a red hot condition about an inch from it's end, use the old rod for a guide or pattern, and carefully bend it to the correct angle. I took a small piece of tubing that fit over the 5/16" dia. end of the rod to bend it, keeps the end that engages the quadrant straight and makes a sharper bend, Then reinstall.
PAUL - Back when the DOT shop was still standing I used to take My old engine oil to the recycling tank at the garage. That grader was always setting there but I never looked at it too closely. In the last couple months the recycling tank, the whole shop building and most of the hill it all sat on is "GONE!" I hope they rebuild the garage & oil tank, etc. I liked being only about 3 miles away from where they stored the snow plows....Our road was one of the first plowed out every time it snowed.
If the release rod twisted off, I think it's 5/16" round rod, thread one end of a three ft length of rod (5/16" coarse threads)from a hardware store to accept the new top button, slide it into the handle with all the springs & washers required, cut the rod to an approx. length of the old one first before You install the replacement rod, then with a propane torch, MAPP Gas torch, acetylene torch, heat the bottom of the rod to a red hot condition about an inch from it's end, use the old rod for a guide or pattern, and carefully bend it to the correct angle. I took a small piece of tubing that fit over the 5/16" dia. end of the rod to bend it, keeps the end that engages the quadrant straight and makes a sharper bend, Then reinstall.
PAUL - Back when the DOT shop was still standing I used to take My old engine oil to the recycling tank at the garage. That grader was always setting there but I never looked at it too closely. In the last couple months the recycling tank, the whole shop building and most of the hill it all sat on is "GONE!" I hope they rebuild the garage & oil tank, etc. I liked being only about 3 miles away from where they stored the snow plows....Our road was one of the first plowed out every time it snowed.
DAVID - Welcome to the forum. Cubbies have a battery powered ignition system. By "Loose Terminal" I'm going to assume the "L" shaped terminal post is loose from the rest of the battery, which means it's broken off inside the battery case, removing the jumper cables removes the elec. power to run the ignition system. And the engine shuts off. A new battery is the only cure for that problem.
If the cable connection is loose on the terminal just tighten the connection, should just be a 1/4" bolt & nut. Clean the rust and oxidation off both connections while Your working on it. Not just the outside but where the cable end actually touchs the terminal and the terminal's themselves. Wire brush works well to get all the contact points shiny. But if the tractor has sat not running for long the battery is probably dead and needs recharged or replaced.
The fact it started & ran on the jumper battery is a VERY good sign.
If the cable connection is loose on the terminal just tighten the connection, should just be a 1/4" bolt & nut. Clean the rust and oxidation off both connections while Your working on it. Not just the outside but where the cable end actually touchs the terminal and the terminal's themselves. Wire brush works well to get all the contact points shiny. But if the tractor has sat not running for long the battery is probably dead and needs recharged or replaced.
The fact it started & ran on the jumper battery is a VERY good sign.
proessler
Well-known member
Dennis F That Sun Prairie Hwy. shop was my first county place of employment back in the summer of '73. Last time I drove thru it was still standing. I heard thru the grape vine the temporary County Hwy. shop is located at the old Hanley Implement shop, next to the "new <font color="ff6000">Simp</font> store. The county was looking for new facility options, but as usual it takes forever to decide! A couple of the patrol trucks are located at the new salt shed at Cty. V & US 151 interchange under a TEEPEE in think...
. I still can't find any Cub size Michelins. Maybe I'll give Weber Tires a call .
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Steve,
Sand is not the best thing to use for sandblasting, because is can cause silicosis poisoning or something like that. In NY, it is illegal to use sand for sandblasting. They want us to use blasting media like Aluminum Oxide, (aka black beauty). The way I see it, I wear a respirator, and Tyvek suit when blasting, and then it is outdoors. I use Aluminum Oxide in my blast cabinet. Play sand will work, as far as blasting goes, and has less dust and an aggressive cut. As Tom said, the particle size and sharpness varies too much in sand in general, and may warp sheetmetal because of heat buildup. Masonary sand has more dirt and silt in it, and is finer for delicate work... Other media types include coal, soda, walnut shells, and glass beads. HTH
Sand is not the best thing to use for sandblasting, because is can cause silicosis poisoning or something like that. In NY, it is illegal to use sand for sandblasting. They want us to use blasting media like Aluminum Oxide, (aka black beauty). The way I see it, I wear a respirator, and Tyvek suit when blasting, and then it is outdoors. I use Aluminum Oxide in my blast cabinet. Play sand will work, as far as blasting goes, and has less dust and an aggressive cut. As Tom said, the particle size and sharpness varies too much in sand in general, and may warp sheetmetal because of heat buildup. Masonary sand has more dirt and silt in it, and is finer for delicate work... Other media types include coal, soda, walnut shells, and glass beads. HTH
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Steve-
Don't use "play sand" for sand-blasting. If I'm remembering correctly, the bag even says "Do not use as a blast media" right on it due to the dust it contains.
Don't they sell "Black Beauty" (aluminum oxide) at Home Depot? I usually get mine at the local Menards right next door, so I don't know if HD sells it or not, but I'd guess they do because the sell compressors.
Everett-
Good Luck!
Don't use "play sand" for sand-blasting. If I'm remembering correctly, the bag even says "Do not use as a blast media" right on it due to the dust it contains.
Don't they sell "Black Beauty" (aluminum oxide) at Home Depot? I usually get mine at the local Menards right next door, so I don't know if HD sells it or not, but I'd guess they do because the sell compressors.
Everett-
Good Luck!
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Steve,
If you nozzle clogs, then you have moisture in your air, or you store your sand in your sandblaster. Try ot remove the sand between uses. To remove moisture, you can get a drier, drain your compressor more frequently, or place your filter bowl in a container of ice water to condense the moisture out. It really works!!
If you nozzle clogs, then you have moisture in your air, or you store your sand in your sandblaster. Try ot remove the sand between uses. To remove moisture, you can get a drier, drain your compressor more frequently, or place your filter bowl in a container of ice water to condense the moisture out. It really works!!
PAUL R. - I've bought both sets of Firestone bar tires for My Cubbies from Weber. "Cash & Carry" I keep checking their back lot for FARMALL tires every time I'm out that way. I need a Firestone for the M.
It was sad Hanley's closed. I guess one of their bigger manufacturer's told them "You have to sell X% more this year and Tom didn't think they would or could. I got a little stuff I needed but mostly wanted from their sales, but unfortunately that DIDN'T include a VICTORY motorcycle.
Yesterday when I was by the old DOT garage the hill the garage sat on is almost ALL down to the same level as the lower yard where they piled dirt & rock, etc.
It was sad Hanley's closed. I guess one of their bigger manufacturer's told them "You have to sell X% more this year and Tom didn't think they would or could. I got a little stuff I needed but mostly wanted from their sales, but unfortunately that DIDN'T include a VICTORY motorcycle.
Yesterday when I was by the old DOT garage the hill the garage sat on is almost ALL down to the same level as the lower yard where they piled dirt & rock, etc.
SCOTT - Like Art says, blasting with play sand is a fitful task at best. Two yrs ago Son & I blasted some frt end parts on His pickup, the I-beam frt axles, springs & spring buckets, etc. We tried play sand repeatedly, Nozzle would plug, even the control valve plugged a time or two. And I have a dryer, 80 gal. tank, was using 50 ft of hose to run outside to the blaster, and the blaster was sitting outside in 15 deg. temps. Air was cold and no moisture....but some REALLY big chunks of sand would fall out of the nozzle when We cleaned it. Some of the smaller chunks would wedge in the nozzle. I have one nozzle that the ID is worn to over 3/16" dia. and it wouldn't even work with play sand. And my compressor wouldn't keep up with the blaster very long using it. We used a little alum. oxide grit but it got REAL expensive without being able to recapture it. Now the blaster sits until I can make a cabinent. Plans call for one large enough to fit a WHOLE SGT frame into.
