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Archive through January 05, 2009
- Thread starter dtanner
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
OK fella's. I need some opinions here. I have the wiring schematic for my 109. I tried to out it in this post, but d'd if I can figure out how.
Anyway, the way I figure it is. Leads go from the positive side of the battery to the starter solenoid, and then to the positive side of the ammeter---constantly live. A lead runs from the "B" terminal of the Volt regulator to the negative side of the ammeter, to the battery terminal of the ignition switch. Also live constantly.
Now, the battery receives it's charge actually through the ammeter. I think, is this correct??
Here are my symptoms. Since I got the tractor from my Dad about 18 months ago the ammeter has fluctuated radically. Very fast. After initial start or operating the ATV winch it literally pegs to the extreme charge side for a few seconds. I posted before that after snowplowing for 45 minutes or so it wouldn't charge at all(confirmed with multimeter) And after sitting and restart would charge for a short period, then quit again. The S/G was replaced about 7 months ago, and the regulator terminals and contacts cleaned. Also, I noted the other day, when I operate the winch without the tractor running, the ammeter never moved. In fact the 1st time I turned the switch to on position it didn't move either.
I have never had any difficulty whatsoever with starting. just few cranks and running, and runs well. This indicates to me the harness, key switch, and terminals are just fine.
I'm thinking the ammeter itself is causing the charging issues. Am I totally out to lunch on this??
BTW, the S/G is 15 amp according to specs and the ammeter is only 10 amp.
Opinions from you folks are valued.
Anyway, the way I figure it is. Leads go from the positive side of the battery to the starter solenoid, and then to the positive side of the ammeter---constantly live. A lead runs from the "B" terminal of the Volt regulator to the negative side of the ammeter, to the battery terminal of the ignition switch. Also live constantly.
Now, the battery receives it's charge actually through the ammeter. I think, is this correct??
Here are my symptoms. Since I got the tractor from my Dad about 18 months ago the ammeter has fluctuated radically. Very fast. After initial start or operating the ATV winch it literally pegs to the extreme charge side for a few seconds. I posted before that after snowplowing for 45 minutes or so it wouldn't charge at all(confirmed with multimeter) And after sitting and restart would charge for a short period, then quit again. The S/G was replaced about 7 months ago, and the regulator terminals and contacts cleaned. Also, I noted the other day, when I operate the winch without the tractor running, the ammeter never moved. In fact the 1st time I turned the switch to on position it didn't move either.
I have never had any difficulty whatsoever with starting. just few cranks and running, and runs well. This indicates to me the harness, key switch, and terminals are just fine.
I'm thinking the ammeter itself is causing the charging issues. Am I totally out to lunch on this??
BTW, the S/G is 15 amp according to specs and the ammeter is only 10 amp.
Opinions from you folks are valued.
Roger i could be off base here but i think that a cub charging system was never desinged to handle the voltage of an atv winch and not burn something out.
No I haven't, but my Dad did. Some time ago
why did your dad replace it ?
No I haven't, but my Dad did. Some time ago
why did your dad replace it ?
Roger M,
My experience with the ammeter gauge fluctuating wildly usually means that the brushes are about shot and need replacing in the S/G. Was your replacement S/G a new or used one? You might pull the end cap off and check the condition of your brushes and make sure they are making good contact with the armature ring and not hanging up in the guides. The voltage regulator could also be a source of trouble as well but check your brushes first.
An ammeter just measures the flow of current in the circuit to which it is placed. Depending upon how you hooked up your winch, its circuit may be outside of the circuit which your ammeter in and that's why the ammeter doesn't do anything when you operate your winch. An example of this would be if you have your winch leads tied directly to the battery posts.
If the ammeter has gone bad or burned up, that would constitute a break in the circuit and I believe it would not allow the battery to be recharged. You can easily check the ammeter by disconnecting the battery, remove the two wires attached to the ammeter and then check for continuity across the "+" and "-" ammeter terminal bolts with a continuity light or an ohmmeter.
My experience with the ammeter gauge fluctuating wildly usually means that the brushes are about shot and need replacing in the S/G. Was your replacement S/G a new or used one? You might pull the end cap off and check the condition of your brushes and make sure they are making good contact with the armature ring and not hanging up in the guides. The voltage regulator could also be a source of trouble as well but check your brushes first.
An ammeter just measures the flow of current in the circuit to which it is placed. Depending upon how you hooked up your winch, its circuit may be outside of the circuit which your ammeter in and that's why the ammeter doesn't do anything when you operate your winch. An example of this would be if you have your winch leads tied directly to the battery posts.
If the ammeter has gone bad or burned up, that would constitute a break in the circuit and I believe it would not allow the battery to be recharged. You can easily check the ammeter by disconnecting the battery, remove the two wires attached to the ammeter and then check for continuity across the "+" and "-" ammeter terminal bolts with a continuity light or an ohmmeter.
Roger I would have to agree that the cub was not ment for a atv winch might work the amp meter has nothing to do really with chargeing just tell you what it is doing did you ever get the generator check to see if it putting out enough volts and that the brushes and bearing are not worn out. just had to get mine rebuilt had a similar problem also try cleaning the posts of the regulator or replaceing it that might be the problem hope you get it working soon
Don T.,
That roll pin can be a real pain to put in. I had done it twice so far on my 109. Both times I had someone help me by holding the pin with a long needle nose pliers with curved ends while I had a long punch and hammer to pound it in. The problem I have with mine is that the hole is a little worn and the pin works it's way out. The last time I put a cotter pin through the center and bent it over. It has been in for a year and hasn't come out yet. One of these years it will get the upgrade.
That roll pin can be a real pain to put in. I had done it twice so far on my 109. Both times I had someone help me by holding the pin with a long needle nose pliers with curved ends while I had a long punch and hammer to pound it in. The problem I have with mine is that the hole is a little worn and the pin works it's way out. The last time I put a cotter pin through the center and bent it over. It has been in for a year and hasn't come out yet. One of these years it will get the upgrade.
Don T.
I can't get the answer as to why Dad replaced the regulator as he passed away last June.
I have wondered about the ATV winch. But even when lifting it is short duration and for it, almost no load. Of course when lowering it has no load. It may still be an issue tho. I actually got the idea from another member here who uses one on his 122. But I don't know his name.
I can't get the answer as to why Dad replaced the regulator as he passed away last June.
I have wondered about the ATV winch. But even when lifting it is short duration and for it, almost no load. Of course when lowering it has no load. It may still be an issue tho. I actually got the idea from another member here who uses one on his 122. But I don't know his name.
