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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kfreeman

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Ken Freeman
Dave R, I think that is what Dave C. was saying. Changing the small sprocket will speed up the auger while leaving the gear box and driveshaft spinning at their original RPM.

I replaced the pulley on my snowthrower. I get a faster auger, but the gear box and driveshaft are also spinning faster. Is Dave C's idea better, I don't know?

Dave C is only getting a 6-7% speed increase in auger speed. My pulley changed my auger speed 12-13%. From reading the FAQ's, etc., I believe that some have daringly and experimentally gone to 20-25% speed increases, and then warned us to not try it ourselves.
 
My 125 was cranking, starting and running well till I took off the belly mower & mule drive and attached a snow thrower. It takes a bit of bumping a banging to get it on, but not too rough. Now when keying to 'start' I get no cranking, no noise, but amp meter pegs to 'C' (charge). Did the ignition switch go or is it the regulator or starter/ generator? I didn't have a multimeter and didn't probe around, but battery is strong.
 
Noah Swanson

Check the wires going to the brake safety switch to see if you did knock the wires off . My .02
 
Ken F.
That is what I was thinking,gearbox speed stays the same as original,with the sprocket change only the auger will increase in speed.I've got a 14 and a 15 tooth sprocket on order.I'll see if there is any gain in performance when I get them.Should be tomorrow.
I'll try and swap them out the same day so the snow will remain a constant for the comparison.If it is still around.
 
Dennis, If I were to run liquid in the tire I would use somthing cheap like washer fluid so if it all spilled I wouldnt be out that much, my owners manual for my OT tractor talks abotu how adding fluid isnt as effective as cast iron becaus some weight and travel speed is lost in the fluid sloshing aroung in the tire. The family work tractor has both rear tires loaded (methonal?) and it pulls like a team of oxen. I read a artical somwere abotu someone who had tires filled with powdered lead. I would like a set of the 50 pound jd rear weights to run behind my set of 25 pound IH weights, but the jd guys really like their weights.
 
100 in 20 degree weather
sounds pretty good

file://localhost/Users/j3ttt/Movies/100%20vid/Resources/100%20vid.mov
 
Noah, also check if the spring clip on the brake rockshaft is still intact, if that breaks it can't push on the safety switch that Don mentioned. If you look through the slot on the right side of the tractor where the lift arm is located you should be able to see it. Here's some photos of the spring clip.

234027.jpg


234028.jpg


234029.jpg
 
i just had received a cub cadet 1450 that has dual ports to work the front blade left to right and the other lever up and down. The only problem that i have is that i am missing the inner lever that controls the fornt ports can anybody help me out with a picture on how it goes thru the second lever or measurements on one so that i can make one.
thnks Troy
 
Troy, If you use the Parts Lookup function, you can find the exploded parts diagram that may help you understand what is required.

Here is the diagram for the Hydraulic Front Outlet Unit.

234035.gif
 
Some of you may have seen this already, but if you want a quick-laugh, click on Kraig M's profile, then let it load...

LOL!
biggrin.gif
 
Since we are on the subject of dual hydro control, I have always wondered how much work it would be to convert my 169 to a dual valve set-up from a 1650 with the power angle...Are the dash pedestals the same and I just need to drill out the hole for a larger bushing for the outer handle?..I thought it would be a neat addition to have a 2 spool valve on it..
 
Kevin,

I did a 129 once. Used an OT valve, and made all of the levers/linkages using set screw lock collars and 7/16" round stock. It's not all that difficult to do.

I'm sure Kraig has some old pictures of it on my 129/149...if not I'll try to post some this evening.
 
Thanks Steve..I would really like to see that..It looks pretty do-able with the right parts and I think I could make it look factory...Even though it never was..
 
ken
i had already look at all of the diagrams that doesn't show me what i need i need to see i need to see exactly what one looks like and if it goes threw the other rod lift. The one i have has a hole that look like the other rod goes threw and the diagram doesn't say that.
so i would appreciate if one actually sent me a pic or a description on what one would look like
thanks troy
 
How often do you guys if ever do you change(drain) the hytra on your Cubs. I have been debaiting changing it on my 782 and 982. I am guessing it has never been done.
 

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