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Archive through January 02, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Keith what kind of air prussure are you running in those tirs atv are like 3-7 pounds
 
OOOOOO a Versitle!!! Nutin like a Cat V8, be it an old Versatile V8, a 555 or an 1150, "der good tractors, eh?"

Keith-
Nice steering wheel cover, I figured you for a fuzzy steering wheel & curb feeler type
happy.gif
 
Tedd:
Yup - that's the donor rearend from the electric blue wonder that I parted out since the tranny in this 1000 is missing every tooth on 2nd gear.

Mike:
There's 5psi in those tires as pictured. The sidewall recommends 7 psi max. I may go up a bit to see if I can get a shade more clearance out of 'em.

Wyatt:
Thanks! I found that in the last box of garage stuff I unloaded last weekend. I figure my next stop is to get fixed on that show, "Queer Eye for the Straight Guy".

Robb:
Have I told you I love you yet today? I'm pumped about plowing on April 24th. Thanks for the great news. My wife already has it on the calendar and I told her that I'd be giving her an enema before I leave to keep things clear while I'm out of town. I don't plan on missing another plow day! :eek:)
 
Tedd, we have to have ours signed and notarized (sp?) every time we renew our license plates. Retired Fire Fighters are also allowed to buy them.
 
keith, i think what you will find is those tires grow a lot with more pressure. they look great with 5psi in them.i think the clearance will be tighter with more psi but please keep us posted.
 
Mike - I don't think they'll grow much. These are 6-ply tires and changed just a bit from the 18 psi they used to seat the beads.

Keith
 
350 miles, but not mocuh worse than a trip to Travis's for me (and those don't bother me much).....looks like I'm in for Spring Break!!!
 
keith,thats good most of the atv tires i work with grow quit a bit.the only thing bad is if you need to remove them they are the hardest tire to break the beed on atvs, we use a special bead braker thats somes times have to put in the press to brake the beed.the tire machine won't even touch them after they mounted for 3 weeks. i haved had to even cut them off somtimes.even tried running them flat to brake them down with no luck. just my 02cts still like the looks of them, maybe some day on 1 of my tractors.
 
Yea, It will be a long haul for me, but I'll be there!
deadat30.gif

Hey Robb, is there gonna be a prize for the shortest traveled?
 
As I wander through the For Sale pages both in the papers and in the C/C Forum I wonder if there is a major difference in power bewteen the 14 and 1650's?
Also, where, as a newbie (but hooked on CC's), can I get more info on plow days in Wisconsin?
 
lonny,
oh, i see. i believe those side pumps produce even less GPM than the hydro's, not really enough flow for a loader. there are other ways to add hydraulics to the narrow frame, some nice pics have been posted here showing how to use the hydro output shaft to turn a pump and the rear diff as the reservoir, locating everything under the seat. or you could belt drive a larger GPM pump from the same location as your present pump and add a 3 spool, or keep what you have and add a separate loader pump off the front PTO using the loaders frame as the reservoir. there are a few different ways you can go.
 
hey guys I put a 3 point hitch on my 1000 this afternoon, and in order to put some stuff on the brinly adapter you have to have those 2 metal straps that go from the top pin on the tractor to the hitch on the brinly adapter I have everything but those 2 straps and they can't be that hard to make, so if someone could post the dimensions I would apperriate it a lot
thanks, Nathan

(Message edited by nconn on January 02, 2004)
 
14820.jpg

Here is my latest homemade cab, consists of conduit,black pipe, plex-glass and clear vinyl snap on sides, no drilling at all to mount, holes were already factory drilled, now if we get some snow we will be able to test it out.
 
nathan try one of the sonsors at the top of the page they have what your looking for cheap
 
I'm sorry guys...this classified did not come out right. You can delete it!
 
Fred-
I'd say there's a BIG differnce in the power between a 1450 and 1650. There's something about the 16hp engine that keeps finding torque. My 169 is hard to pull down, if you try too much it'll actually foam the fluid in the transaxle (darn hydros
happy.gif
). One thing I'll caution about a 16hp tractor from a 14hp tractor, the 16's seem to use a lot of gas, seems to be much more than a 14, BUT considering the power it's a minor inconvience.

Travis-
I'll be meeting Joe at your place tomorrow, haven't been able to get a hold of you.
 
I would like to know more about the 2 metal straps Nathan Conn is talking about.
For I have a 3pt on my new cub and want to use my sleeve hitch equipment instead of haveing to purchase all new 3pt equipment.
Could some one exsplain this a bit more.

I will be checking back in sunday night.
Have a good weekend everyone.
 
Fred,

Wyatt is right, but remember, there is also a big difference in shake/shimmy & rock'n roll between a 14hp and a 16hp. The 16's are a monster for power, but not necessarily the best mid-throttle machines.

IMHO, a good stout (fresh) 14hp in a wide frame hydro with hyd. lift (149 or 1450) would make about the best all-around work machine out there. My 149 has been a great machine and it does everything well...a great machine if you will be a "one tractor" owner.
 
Travis sells those straps in down pressure and floating versions on his web site.......

High quality Dan H. stuff.....
 
Kevin,

OCC show at the Javitts Center in New York City tomorrow.
I'll see what I can do for u.

George H
 

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