Archive through February 28, 2007

[rwilke]

"Pops" is is then...!

WOW, sounds like you've been making GREAT progress on your CC restoration, Pops!

You made "a few minor modifications", ay?

WELL COME ON MY MAN - spill the beans and let's hear what you did differently to that 10HP Kohler of yours!
Ryan W

 

[kmcconaughey]

Chris B., sounds interesting, could make for a good universal front hitch for other homemade implements too. Please hurry up and get the prototype done so I can see it!

 

[dfrisk]

BEN - Having been around IH equipment since I was old enough to walk, sneeking up on 50 yrs now, I agree of ALL the things IHC made the Cubbies rank right up near the top! They have a few weak spots but the way most of them have been treated the last 26 to 45 yrs it's a wonder ANYTHING is left of most of them.

 

[digger]

Man, I wish I was creeping up on 50 again!

Seeing eye Cub!

 

[mbounds]

Robert W: The Original base model of the International Cub Cadet was equipped with the manual pull start for $548.00. The electric start version was also available for $619.00. Both versions were offered from day one.
The electric start start had an IH Kind/Code of 205000lUxxxxx and the pullstart had an IH Kind/Code of 2050002Uxxxxx.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[kmcconaughey]

Myron, I believe Robert is asking if they changed the style of the pull start. The Original on ebay that he is referring to had a "model 70 style" pull start.

 

[mbounds]

Kraig: On re-read, you're correct. To my knowledge, Cub Cadet did not change the pullstarts on the Originals during production. That one on ebay wasn't kosher....Hard to tell if it was a complete engine transplant (the air baffles seemed to me to be correct for an Original) or some PO with a good shade tree.....

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[bcorn]

Ryan: It is a secret and if I tell you I would have to run over your foot with a 26X12X12. LOL

Yep Dennis: been driving them since 1956, (IH) with Kraig doing his wonderful post on those old tractors a flood of memories just keeps flowing back. To those that didn't get to grow up as farm boys you have nooooo idea what you missed out on!!

Pops

 

[rwilke]

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Dennis Frisk: They have a few weak spots but the way most of them have been treated the last 26 to 45 yrs it's a wonder ANYTHING is left of most of them.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Dennis,

That reminds me of when my neighbor was teasing me about my ol' 129 one day. Then I suggested to him, "Let's just see how well your CRAFTSMAN rider is doing after 30+ years of running!" He didn't know what to say..........

Ryan W

 

[wheinsohn]

Dennis,
I sure do agree with you. My dad bought the 70 used in '66 and for the next 10 years I could not believe what I put that thing through and it kept on going. I used to put a 100# front end weight on top of the rear hitch and plow snow with my homemade v-plow. 2nd gear wasn't fast enough so I used 3rd. I remember a few times sitting there trying to catch my breath after getting the steering wheel in the stomach. I also remember having to fix the plow a few times also. After I moved out and then my brother had at it. We finally put a K181 in it and he finally broke some teeth off of one of the tranny gears. He finally bought a 109 and I got the 70 back. I used it for 2 years to till my garden with a #1 tiller with both extensions on it. I worked it hard. I finally put the tiller on my 123 and then got smart and tried the 48" deck on the 70. I mowed a couple times with it but 1st gear was a handful for it. I finally sold it to a guy that wanted a mower for up north at his cabin with a normal 38" deck. He was tickled to get.

 

[dsterley]

Hi all i have a ? about my k301 does any one know what the compression should be on that motor
ore wear i can find that out

 

[digger]

Darren S.
Click the FAQ's above and there's a link to download the Kohler manual for free. Is that a deal or what.

 

[dmull]

Need some help from electrical genius' out there. Been working on a 70 that wouldn't stay running without holding starter button down, but would fire...usually.

Today I found 3 bad connections, and reterminated them, replaced coil (?), condensor(?), points(?), points wire(bad end), and ignition switch to coil wire (high resistance).

It cranks fine, but I am not getting spark on regular basis...

 

[dsterley]

Hey thanks a lot im just started collecting these little ihcc i have a lot to learn
thanks for your help

 

[tcbusch]

Ryan,
There are 2 smaller wires that go to your coil. One on each side of the plug wire. Disconnect the one that goes to the ignition circuit and directly connect that side of the coil to your battery. If it doesn't generate a reliable spark then your ignition circuit a probably OK.

 

[bstevens]

Hi Bruce again,still lookinng for infor.for what it is bolted to the back of my 149 and can i take it off or does it go into my transmission,i have found a drain plug for my trans/rear end on the bottom but have no way to refill and still looking for my ser.#,i think its on the rear under the item bolted on,tttrying to load photo

 

[rbedell]

D Ryan Mull:

Here is a Wiring Diagram to help with your issues..

 

[lbuttke]

Bruce,
A photo will help identify what it is.
I read your first post and could not come up with a answer to your question, so if possable please pose a photo of it.

 

[tcbusch]

Chris,
A sleeve hitch is meant to be pulled not pushed. Here is a crude picture of a sleeve hitch with a blade shown in red. Drawing A shows the blade being pulled and drawing B shows the blade being pushed.

If you pull the blade and you hit an object the blade will attempt to move to the side opposite of where the object is located. In drawing A the brown rock is about to be hit. The left side of the blade hits the rock and the blade deflects to the right. The closer the force point moves to to 0 degrees the less proportional torque will be added to the alignment bolts shown in green. The net effect would be the blade hitting an obstacle and the blade will bounce off or go around the obstacle.

If you are pushing the blade and you hit a rock, the blade will attempt to move to the side that the obstacle is on. If you hit a rock on the right side the blade will try to move to the right. This will exert a tremendous rotational torque on the hitch pin. The more the blade moves to 90 degrees the more the torque is magnified. The only thing that stops the blade from rotating about the pin is the 2 bolts shown in green. The force applied to the bolts will be multiplied by the difference in the distance from the edge of the blade and the bolt. Rough calculations would indicate you need to multiply the force times 18. 400 pounds of force on the edge of the blade will exert 7200 pounds of force on the green bolts. The harder you push the greater the force.

I think you would need a stabilizer bracket to go from the edges of the blade to the base of the sleeve hitch. This would sort of negate the benefit of using the sleeve hitch.

You should consider fabricating a different hitch to your blade that would mimic the way a standard push blade connects.

However, this is just one mans opinion.

Drawing A

Drawing B

 

[dmull]

ok, I bypassed ignition, and put +12v to + side of coil...passed +12v to - side of coil, still no spark @ points when cranking...I am getting voltage to points pickup.