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Archive through February 28, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Chris,

Buy a front blade and be done with it.....you will have more $$$$ in your set up than a decent used blade.

Terry,

The angle of the force on your rock is equal to the direction of travel, they are parallel. If you assume that the sway plate is drawn up tight and the sleeve hitch joint is "fixed", there is little if any difference in the forces front to rear (since the parts are all symetrical)
 
D Ryan:

If I understand your procedure, it appears that you have tested (via some means ie: DVM) that you have 12V to the (-) side of the Ignition Coil measured to chassis ground..????

This would indicate that the ignition coil is GOOD.

The points have to be grounded to the engine block and eventually all the the way back to the negative battery terminal. So, the points when closed should read zero ohms and be grounded. Once the points open, the circuit is broken. Make sure the above readings are there.

Next, there should be near zero ohms through the spark plug wire. Lastly, change the spark plug for a test.

Sooner or later, the problem will be found.

Here is a simplified Kohler Ignition Diagram...

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Will a model 450-45 snow thrower fit a 128 and a 169 or is it only for the newwer wide frames.

Thanks
Tom
 
Folks,
I have a problem that will concern all of us in time. I rebuild a lot of steering assemblies for the Cubs with the Ross units. MTD has them also.Some of you may know the old style bearing cups are NLA. At least not to me as my dealer gets me the new style that really fit in the 703-1085 type Ross assemblies which were in the MTD Cubs such as 1812 for one.They have a different profile as you can see in the pictures I sent. The cast alumn. case for the 1812 (example) is machined for the new profile bearing cup as well as the adjusting plug in the end that takes up the slack in the bearings. Now here is the problem I am facing. The old style cases & the adjusting plug (see pics.)have the older profile and when one uses the new cups they do not seat into their prospective places/seats as they should.They do not conform to the profile of the seats. I fear without the proper backing they will fail in time.Let's solve this problem. Any advise on this out there???? The new style is on the left in the below pics.
G.L.
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52466.jpg

52467.jpg
 
I can think of two soultions,
1. Use the new type adjusting plug as well as the new cup.
2. Cover the new bering cup with light oil and use a two part epoxy to re-profile the old type plug. The oil will act as a release so the bearing cup can be removed. I once had to use that method to repair a brake drum that the bearing race had chewed up. I was poor and not very bright, but the repair held up for three years of daily highway use.
 
Roland,
Your idea will solve one end but don't forget the other bearing surface inside the cast housing.Also the alumn. plug is expensive.

Kyle,I may try your idea but the confined space inside the cast alumn. housing may be too restrictive.
I forgot to mention using the new style cups in the older assemblies ( IH Cubs) takes up more space and as a result you have to redrill the adjusting plug for the cotter pin.
Thanks for the input fellows!!!!
G.L.
 
Steve,
You are correct, the forces are equal at the point when the blade contacts the rock. If the rock is in the center of the blade then all things are equal and the force will not stress the sway plate bolts. I was thinking of the scenario where the rock is on the outside edge of the blade. When pulling the blade the force on the blade will cause it to pivot away from the rock. Hopefully the blade would slide around the rock without too much damage. When pushing the blade the rock will cause the blade to rotate into the rock further. This will move the move the force further away from the center of the tractor causing the force to increase.

I guess it all comes down to pulling a load is better than pushing. You have more control.
 
Roland,
Your idea will solve one end but don't forget the other bearing surface inside the cast housing.Also the alumn. plug is expensive.

Kyle,I may try your idea but the confined space inside the cast alumn. housing may be too restrictive.
I forgot to mention using the new style cups in the older assemblies ( IH Cubs) takes up more space and as a result you have to redrill the adjusting plug for the cotter pin.
Thanks for the input fellows!!!!
G.L.
 
GL,
We haven't heard from Ken in a while so I thought I would give his input for the bearing cup issue.

Try using some JB weld to fill in the gaps.
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I have a 125 w/a 14 HP motor. I can open the hydro up and the tractor will move but very slowly. As it moves ahead, it will gradually pick up speed, until after about 2 minutes everything is OK. I put in new Hytran last year and changed the filter again this year. The mechanical linkage seems to be solid. Any ideas?? Thanks.
 
Anyone know the torque value on a K301 Aluminum oil pan, I have value for cast iron and sheet metal, but no value listed for Aluminum
 
I have a 147 and bought a Brinly mold plow. I probly need chains since I dont have ag.tires, right? Also do I need to put any other weight on the tractor other than my 30lb tire weights? thanks
 
David,
I am not a Hydro expert. However it sounds like a weak charge pump. Sounds like it takes a while for the charge pump to fully charge or pressurize the main loop.
 
Zach,
You will definitely need chains. Another 100 lbs on the back would help too.
 
Bruce.
IN the FAQ's #22 gives some info on posting photos. You will need to resize your photos to under 100kb and they need to be in a jpeg format.
Hopes that helps.
 

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