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Archive through February 28, 2005
- Thread starter gwsmith
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Width is what I was referring to.
I know some of the guys were running wider ags up front. One guy, (Ted?) was running some really beefy ones at FPD that would've been impossible without the super steer mod.
I'm kind of leaning towards the tri-ribs at 3.5" or 4" (if I can find them at 4). But wanted to hear the guys opinions on one vs. the other.
I know some of the guys were running wider ags up front. One guy, (Ted?) was running some really beefy ones at FPD that would've been impossible without the super steer mod.
I'm kind of leaning towards the tri-ribs at 3.5" or 4" (if I can find them at 4). But wanted to hear the guys opinions on one vs. the other.
Personally I wouldn't trade the ags on my 1450 for anything, I was amazed how well they gripped and also made the steering much better.
Rick M,
4.80x8 NHS Carlisle's on wide rims, tread width is 4". I got'um from CC Specialties, he's a forum sponsor.
4.80x8 NHS Carlisle's on wide rims, tread width is 4". I got'um from CC Specialties, he's a forum sponsor.
Hmm, those might just fit the 86!
I wanted to just use my stock rims and mount the new tires. So those should work. Or, could that .8" put too much pressure on the bead?
(Message edited by rmunday on February 28, 2005)
I wanted to just use my stock rims and mount the new tires. So those should work. Or, could that .8" put too much pressure on the bead?
(Message edited by rmunday on February 28, 2005)
Rick,
Stick some tubes in those suckers, no problems then!
Stick some tubes in those suckers, no problems then!
Rick "M",
I have AG's on my Red 120, nicest steering one I have! Got the tri ribs on my 1600 work out well there too. Either one would work on your 86.
Been kinda' "chippy" here lately, "Can we all just get along?".
(Message edited by thoffman on February 28, 2005)
I have AG's on my Red 120, nicest steering one I have! Got the tri ribs on my 1600 work out well there too. Either one would work on your 86.
Been kinda' "chippy" here lately, "Can we all just get along?".
(Message edited by thoffman on February 28, 2005)
gharbaugh
Hi guys,here in centeral Ill. we haven't even had enough snow to try the snowblade out. I seen one of my old bosses the other day and he gave me a 1650cadet, has a lift hitch onit to. Didn't notice if it had the helper spring or not,have a couple of them.
Hi guys,here in centeral Ill. we haven't even had enough snow to try the snowblade out. I seen one of my old bosses the other day and he gave me a 1650cadet, has a lift hitch onit to. Didn't notice if it had the helper spring or not,have a couple of them.
Yeah I noticed the "chippy"-ness too. I was allowing it to pass as an indication of male menopause...
(just kidding guys!)
Charlie - the tubes might do the trick. Looks like that's the route I'll go.
Eventually I want to do the supersteer mod. But it looks like the engine is going to need an overhaul soon... so I figure that's $300 out of pocket.
I might buy a larger engine for now and overhaul the K181 later.
Charlie - the tubes might do the trick. Looks like that's the route I'll go.
Eventually I want to do the supersteer mod. But it looks like the engine is going to need an overhaul soon... so I figure that's $300 out of pocket.
I might buy a larger engine for now and overhaul the K181 later.
Tyler- Loader-Mutt DOES have really wide fronts, but I didn't have it at FPD as Rick suggested... that was clearly someone else...
But don't take MY wide fronts in same context as doing same with 'normal' steering- mine's all full-power hydraulic, and my knuckles are home-made, with farther offset, and wide trailer wheels... different scrub radius- it'd be murder to tryn' steer 'em with a conventional CUB Cadet steering box. As it is, all my steering forces go from the knuckles directly to the front of the frame, not through a drag link... it'd destroy a normal drag link (and has destroyed a conventional tie-rod). Don't remember off the top of my head, but I think Loader-Mutt's final tires were Carlisle 6-ply trailer tires in 20-8.50-8... don't remember, 'cause I tried like... three different sizes. I know the 20-10.50-8 ags would hang up a lug on the side of the loader-bracket at full lock.
Dunno about the super-steer mod clearing any wider- or larger-diameter tires... from what I've seen, they CAN (under correct conditions) allow steeper steering angles, and the drag-link relocation trick will allow the steering box to make more steering angle available, it does reduc e the amount of leverage available to steer. In my case, larger tires at steep steering (and LM steers about 8 degrees TIGHTER than a typical WF)would've fouled the frame immediately if the loader bracket wasn't already in the way.
For light steering in agri-plowing conditions, narrow tri-ribs would be the choice, while mowing side-hills would warrant very aggressive turf treads or ags on front. Wide tires make for greater scrub, so don't expect lighter steering with wider treads.
In the case of Loader-Mutt, I needed two things- support capacity (more plies) and the ability to distribute weight on soft ground... to prevent sink-in. The wide trailer-tires gave both support capacity (like... 800lbs/tire) and floatation surface. Without seriously aggressive tread, they tend not to pick up the yard into a big mud-barrel, just compresses the soft soil a little as I pass over... doesn't sink-to-china when I carry a bucket-load by. As long as I take it easy on the drive-treadle, I can 'tread lightly' over soft ground and basically only push down the grass and leave temporary chevron-marks where I've been. Putting the bucket to the earth, however, will cause the ag rears to turn up the ground, as will stabbing the treadle into reverse while moving forward... fills my boots with mud pretty quick. ;-)
But don't take MY wide fronts in same context as doing same with 'normal' steering- mine's all full-power hydraulic, and my knuckles are home-made, with farther offset, and wide trailer wheels... different scrub radius- it'd be murder to tryn' steer 'em with a conventional CUB Cadet steering box. As it is, all my steering forces go from the knuckles directly to the front of the frame, not through a drag link... it'd destroy a normal drag link (and has destroyed a conventional tie-rod). Don't remember off the top of my head, but I think Loader-Mutt's final tires were Carlisle 6-ply trailer tires in 20-8.50-8... don't remember, 'cause I tried like... three different sizes. I know the 20-10.50-8 ags would hang up a lug on the side of the loader-bracket at full lock.
Dunno about the super-steer mod clearing any wider- or larger-diameter tires... from what I've seen, they CAN (under correct conditions) allow steeper steering angles, and the drag-link relocation trick will allow the steering box to make more steering angle available, it does reduc e the amount of leverage available to steer. In my case, larger tires at steep steering (and LM steers about 8 degrees TIGHTER than a typical WF)would've fouled the frame immediately if the loader bracket wasn't already in the way.
For light steering in agri-plowing conditions, narrow tri-ribs would be the choice, while mowing side-hills would warrant very aggressive turf treads or ags on front. Wide tires make for greater scrub, so don't expect lighter steering with wider treads.
In the case of Loader-Mutt, I needed two things- support capacity (more plies) and the ability to distribute weight on soft ground... to prevent sink-in. The wide trailer-tires gave both support capacity (like... 800lbs/tire) and floatation surface. Without seriously aggressive tread, they tend not to pick up the yard into a big mud-barrel, just compresses the soft soil a little as I pass over... doesn't sink-to-china when I carry a bucket-load by. As long as I take it easy on the drive-treadle, I can 'tread lightly' over soft ground and basically only push down the grass and leave temporary chevron-marks where I've been. Putting the bucket to the earth, however, will cause the ag rears to turn up the ground, as will stabbing the treadle into reverse while moving forward... fills my boots with mud pretty quick. ;-)
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Dennis F. Thank you for your input on the tires. I have a extra set of 6-12 rims with bad tires. Now to see if the owner of those Titans will part with them at a nice reasonable price. They are sitting in the "parts/scrap section". If so then I have my ag tires for Plow Day. If not then it will be my turfs and chains.
MARLIN - "Turfs & Chains" work for plowing too. Fact is I've plowed with My 6X12 Pizza Cutter GY Turfs without chains. I don't recommend it however. I know I had two and maybe three weights per wheel. And the garden had been pretty well stirred up already.
D
dvogt
Guest
George the 1650 was hydralic lift. you wouldn't need a spring assist
Short story here, Saw a Cub Cadet on ebay that wasn't very far from where I was working. It was auctioned 3 times with the reserve not being meet. I emailed the guy asking what we could work out and he said that he had over $700 in the 10hp. rebuild. I told him that must be on hell of a sweet engine. Needless to say, we didn't work anything
out.
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