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Archive through February 28, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I found an eeeeeasy way to remove my 125 hydro drive for leak location & repair. All you need is a hoist (or a come along and a good tree).
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<font color="ff0000">Fixed for those who have resolution-challenged monitors like Charlie
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Donnie,
When did you plant a tree in your garage and how long did you have to wait till it was big enough to lift your cub?
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Donnie,
The 1X2, 1x3, 1x4, and 1x5's are much easier to work on. The 1x6 and 1x7's have the brake linkage for the external brakes in the way of getting the punch in to pound out the old sheared pin. Of course with a creeper, it would be much easier. If I find the time this summer, my 106 will have the creeper installed.
 
Great night out plowing snow last night...4 hrs, and with the drifting going on today,i will have to go back out tonight after work and do it all again......
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a $700 overhaul is possible if done at a dealer and they did the R&R work. figure in rebuilding the PTO & Starter/gen possibly also. alot of time people have work done and only look at the bottom doller amount andthats what it cost to have the 1 big item in there list repaired. talked to a local dealer last summer. they had just finished working on a 100 for a guy. they rebuilt the engine (bored OS, cut crank) ,rebuilt the PTO & S&G, rebuilt the clutch replacing the driveshaft,throw out bearing& disc, had to replace the 1st/R shift fork & 2nd gear had a tooth missing so the replaced that. the bill was very close to $1400. some people aren't handy at repair work.
 
Good point(s) Don. I'm not that handy at some things so I'd probably have to put out more than some of our more mechanical members.

But in my defense
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Show me how to do something and I'm good to go.
 
Does anyone have measurements for the location for a light switch on a 102? Also, was adjusting the toe on the 102 and to get it anywhere near, I am only hanging on by a couple of threads. Doesn't seem normal to me. Any thoughts?
 
Dan-
If you're looking for the measurements on where to put a hole for the switch, the hole should already be there. AFAIK the Original is the only unit that needs a hole drilled for the installation of the switch.
 
Dan, I believe Wyatt is correct. Here's a photo that shows where the light switch mounts, there should be a hole there already.
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IIRC, I had to drill the hole for the switch on my 100.........but I have slept since then.....
 
Mmmmmmm - what nice grill marks that 102 would leave on the burgers
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Some one over on the WFM site said that would get hung from the yardarm! If they posted a pic of a JD on here!
I wonder if that's true.
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I guess someone run the wheels right off that poor thing tryin to keep up with a Cub!!!!!!! SNICKER!!!

(Message edited by cproctor on March 02, 2005)
 
Charlie, the retaining wall and patio furniture in the background helped a bit. :eek:)
 
Charlie bet the poor deere spun the wheels off by being pulled backwards up that hill{ that almost looks as bad as Martha Stewarts mug shot !!!
 
Dan L,
Make sure you don't have the drag link and tie rod reversed. Seems like their different lengths.
 

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