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Archive through February 26, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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rims narrow or wide?

narrow no problem, wide turn inside out, and redrill hole for valve stem
 
After being rear-ended by my wife's car, my 1650's chassis is bent/ twisted just enough to keep the drivers side of the snow thrower 1/4 inch or so off the ground. The thrower does not lift level either.

Forcing it down raises the rear passenger side tire.

Does anyone have any ideas of how to straighten it out or adjust the thrower linkage? I think I'll have similar level problems with the mowning deck soon enough.

Thanks,

Tom
 
I don't know much about the throwers but aside from bending the frame back.

1. shim the mounts.

2. let a little air out of a tire(s).

3. Send the wife for driving lessons.
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I had a leaky gas tank on my loader. I used boiling water with lots of soap to rinse the tank out. I rinsed it with new batches of water 5 times. Then I tried to light the tank on fire to make sure the fumes were all gone.
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The tank didn't blow up so I soldered it with a standard do it yourself propane torch. You have to be very careful not to over heat the tank seam. The existing solder will flow out making the leak worse. After soldering the tank I submerged it into a pail of water with the cover on the tank. I put a hose on the tank fitting and blew into the hose. I had no bubbles, so everything was good.

Make sure you rinse the tank thoroughly so you don't go
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Had a busy weekend moving snow, got a little over 12 inches of fresh snow with more predicted for this week.
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Lonny B,

Sweet! Is that your 126? Nice to those 6/7 cubbies still going strong after 35+ years.
 
Now the question , under heavy load with the blower full and WOT the engine misses. It has a walbro carb, does this sound like a partially plugged high speed jet? it's a low hour rebuild engine but I never used it last year so its only been run to move it between the storage buildings. I ran two tanks of fuel thru it this weekend with MMO in the fuel.
 
Ron,
I may have made a mistake, it is actualy a 127, it runs great.
I still have a little problem with the hydro though. It gains speed going forward.
Looks as if it did not get the lever tighten enough.
Any other thoughts on what will cause it to speed up.
I do have a manual but not here at work.
 
Hey Charlie,
I got my first W I D E F R A M E, a 129.
Hopefully I will get to pick it up this weekend.
Tell me again why the wide frames are so much better than the narrow frames.

Now I an going to have to start looking for wide frame attachments, oh well the list just gotten bigger.
 
I haven't had to clean a Cub tank, but the last Cushman tank I cleaned, I rigged a rotisserie using an old barbecue setup (you see lots of them at garage sales), filled the tank with a handful of drywall screws, BBs and water with detergent and let it rotate for a day.. Rinsed it out and then used a tank sealer for good measure. I like the drywall screws, as they're pretty sharp and actually, pretty cheap, although I didn't even need to throw the ones away I used (rinsed 'em off and put 'em back in the coffee can).
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Lonny, good job on the 129, wideframes are better because attatchments/parts are easier to get, and they are an easier tractor to work on, plus, you don't have to modify the frame at all to put a larger engine in (at least a K series...)unlike the narrow frames where you had to notch the frames (like a 147...)JMHO
Bruce, they should, dependin on spindle length, bearing size, etc. I have seen 1X8/9's with wide and narrow fronts, and the 108/28's came with em, unless you ordered the wide ones (I'm partial to the fat ones...)
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I disagree with the WF parts and attachments being easier to find. In the 5 years I've been in this hobby I've had about 4 NF blades and 1 WF one... I have 3 cast end decks for every 44" deck I've got, also 6 or 7 NF deck subframes and only about 3 WF ones.... and don't get me started about parts, 80% of what I have is NF stuff...older and cheaper to accquire....At least this is what's true around these parts.
 
Hydrostatic- "of or relating to fluids at rest or the forces exerted by such fluids"
 
Well i tryed explaning to my teacher the hydrostatic on a tractor and i tryed googleing it and i keep getting crazy scientific expaneations. I just want lameins terms.
 
Glen,
After dealing with side-slipping snow blowers, I can see the benefits of the tri-ribs on the slippery stuff, but I really don't want to use them on the lawn. Are your tri-ribs on narrow or wide rims? I've thought about getting a spare set of wheels for snow duty.
 
They are the Firestone tri ribs, and they are the wide ones... not the most freindly on the lawn,especially when wet,I have another mower for that... and they are great for snow too
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We got clobbered with snow this weekend after getting next to nothing all winter. I got to really use the new blade on my 108 for the first time. It was a learning experience. Snow was so deep I had to use it more as a battering ram than a plow just so I could get out of the garage, but it occured to me I may be lacking in technique. Any tips for the best way to move deeper snow with a blade? Would I punch through better with the blade angled more? More snow is coming so I'll get more practice...

Overall I'm impressed with the battering ram technique. It was slow but I was able to move waist deep piles around. (I'm low-waisted)
 

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