Archive through February 25, 2010

[fcurrier]

Dan Z.: (ref email) that's far from being mine! Mike LaMar hinted that he was doing a remake of one of the Tiger Cubs, so I posted that pic. I've asked him to start a thread in the Sandbox of his progress.
I'm not fussy about about what brand of hydrostatic fluid I use in my Cubs (although I'm partial to Shell) including our 7275. Regular changes of filter and fluid (like in your vehicle, it pays to keep records) is a plus. Don't be a stranger!

 

[rjbean]

Jim, yes, I understand, but what mule drive is the correct one? Mine has one adjuster, on the right(looking at the front) and both pulleys move the same with that adjuster. Is this the correct mule drive for the mower, tiller, or both?
I was given this cub by someone that had no clue about them, and it was in parts. Although I do know he mowed with it the year before. Sorry no pics, I'll ry to get some tomorrow.

 

[jpatchett]

Randy,

Pictures are GREAT and very helpful. The (correct) mule drive is likely a Narrow Frame bolt on, it bolts to the bottom front of the tractor.

JIM

 

[jpatchett]

Randy,

bolt on mule drive to gear box.

Jim

 

[speterson]

Randy,
I'll bet if you take a few minutes and read through the manual you'll find some information on the tiller mule drive.

I can't say on the narrow frames, but I remember when I was reading up before using my first tiller on my wide frames I found the info about the mule drive having the sheaves inline with the frame rails and having a separate adjuster for each sheave. I ran it for a while with the mower mule drive with the offset sheaves, but I finally took an extra mower mule drive and straightened out the sheave mounts, took off the tensioning spring and fixed it so both sides can be adjusted.

I like my tillers and I spend quite a few hours every spring tilling gardens. I laugh every time I show up to till a garden in a tight back yard and the people are amazed that I can get a tractor and tiller through the gates and over the lawn and septic systems. They always seem to expect me to show up with a walk behind machine.

I've been a lot happier with the 5/8 belt and sheaves since I moved the tiller onto an IH 782 last year. It's almost impossible to slip that long belt. I had to watch that short belt pretty close to be sure it was loose enough to slip when I ran the tiller on the 149 and 1450. Now I just watch my speed. It will kill the engine before the belt slips.

 

[thenrie]

Started on my 1650. It's gonna be slow going. Schedule is pretty tight. Before I started taking her apart I started the engine and ran it a minute or two, just to see if it would start. Ran pretty well, considering how much crud was stuffed into every crack and groove on it. Haven't tried the hydro or hydraulics yet. Got all my parts ready, even got the paint. Just need a fender pan and seat. I have a line on them as well, just haven't had the time to go get them. As you can see, I need to do a little repair on the front crossmember where the pivot pin used to go. It's all fun.

 

[thenrie]

For some reason, some of my pics didn't show up. Here they are.

 

[digger]

Tony H.
Please hit the Enter button after each pic.

 

[dross]

Tony, I don't usually use the word rare but I think I've never seen a quick disconect front axle.

 

[dzubrzycki]

I think tractor supply store carrys some for cub cadet trans. I got to figure out wear to get filter not man cub cadet dealers around here.

 

[stanner]

Daniel,

stay away from Fram filters. the model they spec will not work with a cub... it had anti-drainback stuff inside... you need a cub filter or one designed for hydraulic suction duty... HTH

 

[lhinds]

Daniel go to the FAQ and to Charlies FAQ and do some reading. There you will find all the info you need.

 

[jmeacham]

Tony, cut the front cross member out and weld in a good used one, I have done it to a few tractors before. When I get a tractor that has a good axle hole to strip I save the cross member.

 

[cstewart]

Okay, so after reading the mule drive thread, I now know I will have to replace the slip-on mule drive with a bolt-on unit on my 147 if I want to use the tiller I bought. I see some on eBay for 122's, 123's, 125's, etc. I assume anything made for a narrow frame should work, right? Also, I see some that are missing pulleys - are the pulleys the same as on my clip-on unit? Finally, will I have to change anything to use the "new" mule drive with my current 38" mower deck?

Thanks all!

 

[rrschmitt]

Daniel Z,

You can get the proper Hydraulic Fluid for your transmission "HyTran Ultra" at your nearest Case-IH dealer and it will be cheaper.

 

[dfrisk]

CHIP S. - re: Bolt-on mule drive. My quick-attach mule drives all have a place where You can install a bolt thru them into the frame, 1/2" dia bolt. I don't "Think" I drilled those holes in my 72's frame, but then, since I've had it soon be thirty years I may not remember doing it. With the "Frankenstein Bolts" (shoulder bolts) securing the back of the mule drive it actully is mounted VERY sturdy.

You would still have to replace the idler spring on the one pulley arm, and maybe realign the pulleys.

 

[dfrisk]

RON S. - Have You priced Hy-tran lately? Let Me suggest that anyone buying Hy-Tran should save their empty gallon or 5-gal. jugs. Most dealers have BULK oil pricing on Hy-tran dispensed from 55 gal barrels in their shop and You can save about $3/gal. according to the last discussion over at the RPM forum.

 

[dross]

Chip S, Dennis, My 72 had those holes in it.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Chip, Denny, those holes in the mule drive and frame are standard. I bolt on my QA42 snowthrower each year as it seems to make it more stable. The mower I just use the QA bail setup to hold it on. If I had a tiller, I think I'd take the few extra minutes to bolt it on. <FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>

 

[dtanner]

guys I have to ask if it would be safe to spot weld front couplers into the frame on my tractor. Has anyone done this. I can`t buy the couplers here that take the clip. This tractor will be down for weeks till I get new valves and get this all installed. Thanks for your help.