Archive through February 18, 2008
- Thread starter mheinlein
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
KENtucky, thanks for the heads up on the possible cracks in the frame I will be on the lookout for that. Once I got the PTO and SG pulley off I headed for the house to warm up. No heat in the shed. I figured I'd take photos in the morning. I should have taken them last night while it was still a few degrees above zero. This morning it was -15° outside and -5° in the shed, burrrr.
Here's the photos.
Is the key slot too damaged to be used? The engine was a good runner. I quit using it a few years back because the SG pulley came loose. Looks like I didn't notice it was loose in time to prevent damage.
Is the SG pulley too damaged to use again?
I have lots of clean up to do on the frame, wow there was a lot of grass and dirt packed in next to the grill frame and engine.
I guess I need to do a better job keeping my Cubs clean...
Here's the photos.
Is the key slot too damaged to be used? The engine was a good runner. I quit using it a few years back because the SG pulley came loose. Looks like I didn't notice it was loose in time to prevent damage.
Is the SG pulley too damaged to use again?
I have lots of clean up to do on the frame, wow there was a lot of grass and dirt packed in next to the grill frame and engine.
Kraig,
I had one that was lots worse than yours that I put a little dab of 2 part epoxy on the bottom and side of the key and added 3 new holes for set screws in the pulley and it's held up now for a long time with no issues.
Even if you have to remove the pulley for some reason down the road, the key will just stay on the crank. Just my 2 cents.
Anti-seize on the crank and pulley help to, just in case.
I had one that was lots worse than yours that I put a little dab of 2 part epoxy on the bottom and side of the key and added 3 new holes for set screws in the pulley and it's held up now for a long time with no issues.
Even if you have to remove the pulley for some reason down the road, the key will just stay on the crank. Just my 2 cents.
Anti-seize on the crank and pulley help to, just in case.
"John, very nice loader.
I see you live not to far from me and I pass through Olympia a few times a year, ya better chain that thing down hehe"
Wow Don, those are some nice looking rigs! Another West coaster? Seems to be a pretty rare thing out here.
I see you live not to far from me and I pass through Olympia a few times a year, ya better chain that thing down hehe"
Wow Don, those are some nice looking rigs! Another West coaster? Seems to be a pretty rare thing out here.
Charlie, by "2 part epoxy" do you mean JB Weld?
Thanks for the tips. I was thinking that if I were to use a longer key with the tapered end like a half moon key that it might also make it salvageable. I know that's the kind of key stock that David included with the Killer Kohler rebuild, knew I should have taken a photo of that...
John W., I like your loader tractor! Nice improvement with the front hubs. Hey that's a pretty clever idea there making a sleeve hitch drawbar adapter! Hmmm, I have a couple spare drawbars I may have to make one of those.
"Hey that's a pretty clever idea there making a sleeve hitch drawbar adapter! Hmmm, I have a couple spare drawbars I may have to make one of those."
I can't take credit for that idea. I found the plans somewhere on the net. I don't have any implements for it...But I might someday. I would like to find a cheap moldboard plow (did I say that right?) that I can take the shoe off of and just break up a shallow trench. It would be handy for running some of my irrigation lines. It never really freezes too bad here, plus I blow out the lines in the fall.
I also found the spindle upgrade on the net. IMHO, it is a must with a loader. A lot of weight is put up there.
I can't take credit for that idea. I found the plans somewhere on the net. I don't have any implements for it...But I might someday. I would like to find a cheap moldboard plow (did I say that right?) that I can take the shoe off of and just break up a shallow trench. It would be handy for running some of my irrigation lines. It never really freezes too bad here, plus I blow out the lines in the fall.
I also found the spindle upgrade on the net. IMHO, it is a must with a loader. A lot of weight is put up there.
Tony,
I think I am.
I think I am.
John W., regardless, that is a great idea.
I first noticed it in the photo you posted yesterday.
Hey Kraig. I have been a machinist for 15yrs. What I have done in the past is wire welded the pto crank shaft end with a brass key in the keyway that way you won't weld the key way in and after removing the bass key and some file work you are all set to go. It is helpful if the shaft is out of engine with the bearings removed to prevent ball bearings arcing agaist the races. The crankshaft I welded 4yrs ago is still hard at work with no problems. Your pulley can be resloted at a machine shop with no problem. Hope this helps.
Brandon, Pops, thanks!
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- Allen Schumacher
Kraig, Is that weld cracked on the bottom of the S/G pully??
Allen, could be, it was too cold in the shed last night and this morning for a complete inspection. I'll bring it in the house tonight where it's warm and clean it up and have a better look. It does look like it might be cracked, if so perhaps the best fix would be to have a new hub welded into the pulley. I do have another pulley that is bent but it has a good hub.
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Kraig-
If the engine still runs OK, why not just get that S/G pulley lined up with the S/G, then weld the pulley right to the crank with a few small tac welds?
The reason I say it that way is because if the keyway in both the crank and the pulley are bad, just fixing the crank-slot probably won't be enough to have that pulley last long without loosening up again. (IMHO)
Run the engine like that till it gives up the ghost, then just find a new crank and pulley.
"..put a little dab of 2 part epoxy.."
Yea, I think we all knew what Charlie meant...
If the engine still runs OK, why not just get that S/G pulley lined up with the S/G, then weld the pulley right to the crank with a few small tac welds?
The reason I say it that way is because if the keyway in both the crank and the pulley are bad, just fixing the crank-slot probably won't be enough to have that pulley last long without loosening up again. (IMHO)
Run the engine like that till it gives up the ghost, then just find a new crank and pulley.
"..put a little dab of 2 part epoxy.."
Yea, I think we all knew what Charlie meant...
