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Archive through February 10, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Thanks Kentucky Ken. I have looked at the parts lists, but seeing things in a photo makes it easier to visualize. My 169 seems to have two ports on the upper front of the hydro trans, under the inspection cover. I take it these were for the hydraulic lift that wasn't installed when the factory production outstripped hydro lift production back in 1974? Would the conversion be easier to electric lift or hydraulic lift?

Thanks,

John-David Reaves
 
If your pump does have those two ports coming off the top front of it then you will just need the other parts that are in ken's picture for the hyd lift. I take it that those two ports are capped off.
 
hi guys i want to put a power angle on my 149 and i have given it some thought as to the best way to do it.I think it would be great if i could find a dual controler for the blade. so i would not have to run more lines off the hydro pump.what is the best way to set up the extra controler for the power angle? thanks Don T
 
Matt G.-- What is the advantage of the later version swash plate? Cheaper/easier to manufacture or a true performance improvement? I know this is 20 questions it seems but I am getting a good education here.
I am looking for longevity and pure pump performance. I don't care about weight savings from aluminum castings or lighter built parts that break or wear out due to "newer" manufacturing processes (which usually mean it was cheaper on the manufacturer, not us). I am going to be putting about 40hp at 4,000rpms through this hydro tranny and it will have a load on it. That is why I am prying with all the questions. I am going to build the rear with a Dart center section, axles, and billet steel adjustable bearing cups which will make the back side darn near bullet-proof. Now I am just trying to get my hands on how to do the same with the front. I know I have to have a near perfect, rebuilt, or new pump to get good clearances for pump performance. I also know there will be a few mods to be done to get good pump pressure. The main thing I do know is that I will be putting on some sort of reservoir and/or oil cooling radiator with fan to keep the fluid cool which limits the loss of hp through heat. This is a real problem with hydros.
I will probably need some help with the cooling system as well. I am not sure where to start with it but I will get there. Thanks.
 
Greg E.-

I'm honestly not sure which one is better. All I can tell you is, the motor swash plate washer is NLA to my knowledge. When that part was available, it was probably cheaper than the old style. I tried to get one when I combined two pumps together. Actually if I were you, I'd try to get a non-ported pump from a CCC 1860 or something like that, it should bolt up to an older iron rear, and the input shaft would be splined. That would be much stronger than the input shaft on the older ones. I hope someone that knows more about these things will chime in, I am by no means an expert.
 
Thanks Matt,
Thats what I thought but I wasn't for sure from reading something in the postings. You} guys are a lot of help to the new people.
 
Paul Andrews: Welcome. I know there's an answer to your question, I just don't know where to find it. A search for "boom" didn't help much. I wouldn't put too much faith in a 1" piece of roundstock 2' long! Stick around and you'll probably be using both those 149's in tandem!
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If you guys think Don T's had fun with the 149 he hauled out of here, wait and see what happens if he drags that stripped down 107 home to his 64 degree garage!
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Greg E. I think there was a short discussion a while back about how much hp. these hydros can handle. Charlie had a book shown recently about various hydro units, maybe for you. But 40hp seems like an awful lot of power going to it. JMHO
 
I decided to install the K301 in the tractor. Along with the proper lenth head bolts, I need a set of points and to assemble the breather
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Awhile back I asked if the drive clutch anti-rattle springs could be installed on the engine side of the clutch. The manual shows them installed on the driveshaft side, I found that on my engine install(128 model) the springs would only work on the engine side. There was not enough of the pin on the driveshaft side of the clutch to install the springs. I took pics but they didn't turn out very well. Sorry
 
Greg, what I wanted, Hydro book, was posted by Charlie Proctor on Tues Feb 5 2008 at 7:08 pm. If U want it look back at 'Archive thru Feb 5'. It says it'll take 4000 rpm but nothing that I saw about total hp. Oh well... GO for it !!!
 
Charlie, I think I will stay doun here. I still talk to some folks out west in Idaho now and then, More snow than anyone remembers. They have ski lifts closed in Washington state becaulse the lift chairs are UNDER the snow this year. And I am missing it!
 
40hp through a hydro? I don't know for sure, but isn't there a pressure relief valve that's going to limit power transmission? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm thinking once you reach max pressure, the remaining hp would only be available to drive attachments.
 
Todd H.-

Just out of curiosity, is that engine not out of a 128 originally? It has the long head and cylinder baffles like what's on a 125 or something like that. Both my 128's had/have the newer style of shrouds. Or is your 128 really really early?
 
A LONG time ago there was a good photo of a cub parked at a rock pit that made a great picture. Does anyone have a "cub at their snowpile" for the trophy??? Snowblower can make a good tall pile if yo work at or have plenty to work with.
 
Matt G., My K301 is not originally from a 128. The tractor is a November 1971 built. From the engine plate serial #, the engine is a 1967 model. This tractor was originally an "86" model. The engine was swapped to this 12hp in the mid 90's. I do know that this 12hp did not come from a cub. I also don't know what parts if any, my father reused from the 8hp engine.
 
I just noticed Matt G's signature line refers to his website (in progress) and went to check it out (http://mgonitzke.freetzi.com). Nice job Matt. By the way, you mentioned that if anyone ever has a chance to own a 782D, they should get it. I don't suppose yours is available?
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Didn't think so. Oh well. Thanks for sharing your website, anyway.
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Brian W.-- I can always modify the pump relief valve spring pressure. What I am hoping for is when I get done with it, it will be able to put out more pressure, keep itself cool (to limit loss from heat), and transmit as much of my 38hp as possible (40 was a round number. LOL)
 
Kentucky Ken, the two ports (if they are ports) are on the front of the assembly facing the front of the tractor, but directly in line with the two hydro relief valves on top of the transmission. They are capped with 3/4 inch cap screws. Are these ports?

Thanks,

John-David Reaves
 
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