Archive through February 09, 2010

[lkortkamp]

Got out early from work today, came home to find neighbor got his GMC Jimmy stuck in the ditch next to his mailbox. Had to use my 2wd Ford to get him up out of the problem.

Proceeded to get the Cub out and start plowing the 3-4" that had fallen during the day. Did my drive and THREE neighbors(to their surprise). All in the name of "cub time".

 

[jlarsen]

Chip s
I made one out of some steel banding to get me by till i got new ones. I dont think it will work with one.

 

[bbrigham]

Paul R....I was going to do the same thing this winter as I found a couple bicycle chains layin around but we haven't got any ice this year.

Kendall....I started to get all excited, they are callin for 5-8" tonight into tomorrow but watching the radar it looks as if the storm is braking apart as it gets closer....just another kick in da nutz....

 

[rbedell]

Wayne:

NOPE...the Ignition Switch on the 1450 does NOT need to be grounded.

 

[mgwin]

Got a question.

(You will probably think i'm crazy

) Is the "transmission case rear cover shield" on a model 70 supposed to be totally flat?.....I told you you would think i'm crazy!

 

[wshytle]

Roland-

This is an ignition switch to a 149. I haven't gotten to the 1450 yet.

Thanks....Wayne

 

[masmith]

I have two 149's and both set up with blades. I don't have lift rods for either and have been using chain. One works great and the other disconneted from the QA several times. Is there any adjustment in the locking rod on the front of the tractor and do they wear out? Any thoughts would be great. I thought it might be possible the chain allows the blade to raise up and hit the QA rod.

 

[bbrigham]

Michael...Are the spring returns still on the one that disconnects ? If not it could be working loose. I've used chain and even a ratchet strap on one and didn't have any problems.

Marty...Should be. Over time they will dimple at the bolt holes and end up leaking. A flat surface and a hammer will fix that.

 

[mgwin]

Brendan B.,
I was talking about the "T" shaped shield that bolts to the top of the transmission end cover. Sorry about the confusion.

 

[pkordik]

Thanks for the NAPA bearing part numbers. At this point, a cheap bearing will work better than distoryed bearing. I will fix the bearings right when the winter dies down and I do my motor mount rebuild.

 

[sblunier]

2072 just got a 2 hour work-out (not that this light fluffy stuff "works" it very hard). 9 driveways later and all of the neighbors are happy

 

[sblunier]

Michael Smith,

Go the the local hardware store and get a small spring tha you can hook over the center of the QA latch bail. Hook one end to the QA bail and the other over the top of the front frame member (between the grill housing and the yellow steel front plate). this puts some extra "up" tension on the QA bail and keeps it from unlocking. $1.00 fix that is locally available.

New QA latch springs are available from the sponsers.

 

[bigsteve]

Michael I had a blade on a 1810 do the same thing found that adapter had a lot of side play and when backing up it push the blade out of qa hook . Fixed problem by removeing pins and installed longer bolts and washers so it took up the side play

 

[kide]

Rick Almonrode:
Your pictures didn't post because of the "archive bug" - the last post before the rollover of the thread to archive loses its pictures - don't give up, try 'em again!!

 

[aaytay]

Lip-
Are you sure you hooked the condensor up the correct way when you were done cleaning it? (It goes to the negative post on the coil along with the points wire.)

Bottom line, if the points were "buggered" up and the condensor was rusty, I'd say it's time for a new set anyway.

 

[glippert]

Art - I had the engine on the workbench when I cleaned the condenser, so I never disconnected it from the coil; had easy access. I did connect the new condenser to the neg contact on the coil, along with the points wire.

I'll check the points wire for cracks, where it could be shorting out to the engine, but the consistent pattern of 1 big spark, 1 small, then none doesn't seem like a direct short to me. I'll "ohm out" the coil tomorrow (if I can find the diagram again with resistance specs between the terminals).

Does anyone know if a bad coil wire/plug wire or spark plug could cause the symptoms (1 big spark, 1 small, then none at the spark plug gap).

I did take special care to ensure good ground connections throughout the tractor.

 

[dross]

Greg, have you put a multimeter on the positive side of the coil to ensure a consistant 12 volts supply?

 

[jlunderwood]

I have a 124 that is giving me a hard time. One day it starts and run like a champ then the next day it barely cranks. I checked for a spark and it doesn't seemed to be firing very strong and sometimes it doesn't fire at all. I am going to replace the plug after the blizzard is over. I live in MD and we are expecting 16-24 inches of snow tonight. I am also going to check the points and make sure the gap is ok. Any other suggestions?

 

[mgonitzke]

Jack-

Before you do anything else, check your ground...it sounds like it is working intermittently. Clean up the ends of the cables.

 

[jlunderwood]

Will do