Bryan, what's your point? <font size="-2">(pun intended)</font> That same issue could happen to a gear drive! 
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Archive through February 09, 2005
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
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bmcmeen
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Kraig -
Hmmm, I wonder how many of our viewers are thinking that my point is at the top of my head?
Honestly, I was grasping at straws cuz I KNOW the superiority of hydros over gear drives.
<font size="-2">Now slant grilles, well that's another issue...</font>
Hmmm, I wonder how many of our viewers are thinking that my point is at the top of my head?
Honestly, I was grasping at straws cuz I KNOW the superiority of hydros over gear drives.
<font size="-2">Now slant grilles, well that's another issue...</font>
I repeat! )
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sblunier
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5 words........
Wide...Frame....removeable....frame....cover
BTW, this flu #$%^ is sure putting a dent in 148 time. I'm on the 4th day of running a fever and feeling like crap.......you'd sure think this bug would be about ready to give up by now......
(Message edited by sblunier on February 09, 2005)
Wide...Frame....removeable....frame....cover
BTW, this flu #$%^ is sure putting a dent in 148 time. I'm on the 4th day of running a fever and feeling like crap.......you'd sure think this bug would be about ready to give up by now......
(Message edited by sblunier on February 09, 2005)
rchristensen
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7 Words.....
Quietline...Electric PTO.....Solid State Regulator....Starter.
Quietline...Electric PTO.....Solid State Regulator....Starter.
Aesthetically speaking..... )
)rchristensen
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I ran across something kind of unusual the other day. I was mounting a plate on the back of a Cub rear end with studs. I had the measurement exact and drilled the plate, when I tried to install it I found one of the studs wouldn't go through the hole. When I looked closer, one of the studs was crooked, it didn't matter when you use bolts but with the studs sticking out a inch or more makes the difference. I checked several other cub rear ends and they are all straight.
That got me to thinking and since we don't have any factories out here in the west I have no idea how they cast something like the Cub rear end. Maybe someone with knowledge can tell me how it is done. Are the bolt holes in the cast, and then tapped afterwards, or are the holes drilled and tapped after the cast is done? Also on something like a rear end how does the inside get molded and then the mold removed?
That got me to thinking and since we don't have any factories out here in the west I have no idea how they cast something like the Cub rear end. Maybe someone with knowledge can tell me how it is done. Are the bolt holes in the cast, and then tapped afterwards, or are the holes drilled and tapped after the cast is done? Also on something like a rear end how does the inside get molded and then the mold removed?
Richard-
You just got a nice little lesson on projected tolerances for your Geometric Tolerancing & Dimensioning class
The holes are tapped after casting, the only threaded feature I've seen cast in is on some aluminum hinges on a project at work that have some phosphate steel studs cast in, still a p!ss-poor idea IMHO.
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For my defense of my favortie Cubs, words aren't needed, pictures do the talking:
You just got a nice little lesson on projected tolerances for your Geometric Tolerancing & Dimensioning class
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For my defense of my favortie Cubs, words aren't needed, pictures do the talking:
bmcmeen
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Richard C. -
Apparently you got a tranny made on a Friday afternoon
As you know, I've messed with studs out the back of the tranny case quite a bit - on the 169, 1450 and the 129 I had, ALL of them had at least one hole that was crooked. Once you got a stud hanging out 2" it was quite noticable when you slipped the tiller mount over it.
I know someone else here had reported a bolt that didn't seat flat on the trans cover. Thought it might be DK2, I don't recall.
Apparently you got a tranny made on a Friday afternoon
As you know, I've messed with studs out the back of the tranny case quite a bit - on the 169, 1450 and the 129 I had, ALL of them had at least one hole that was crooked. Once you got a stud hanging out 2" it was quite noticable when you slipped the tiller mount over it.
I know someone else here had reported a bolt that didn't seat flat on the trans cover. Thought it might be DK2, I don't recall.
Random comments:
Gov, I ALWAYS think the point is on the top of your head.
Kraig, I've never met you, but your remarks regarding gear drives are always admired and appreciated. The gear drive/hydro arguement didn't last very long this time though. Seems there is a lack of PASSSION around here! Or, the hydro guys have finally thrown in the towel
Steve, Hang in there with the flu. Last time I got a shot, I promptly got the flu, so, I don't ever get a shot any more. BUT, since you were looking for a shot, why not ask Blagoavich (sp?) for one out of the million dollar surplus stock he ordered. (I think you're close to Springfield, right?). You must be hurtin': only five word messages. . . .
Gov, I ALWAYS think the point is on the top of your head.
Kraig, I've never met you, but your remarks regarding gear drives are always admired and appreciated. The gear drive/hydro arguement didn't last very long this time though. Seems there is a lack of PASSSION around here! Or, the hydro guys have finally thrown in the towel
Steve, Hang in there with the flu. Last time I got a shot, I promptly got the flu, so, I don't ever get a shot any more. BUT, since you were looking for a shot, why not ask Blagoavich (sp?) for one out of the million dollar surplus stock he ordered. (I think you're close to Springfield, right?). You must be hurtin': only five word messages. . . .
Donnie H,
Here ya go.
Here ya go.
Richard C.,
The transmission housing is a sand cast, iron casting. The interior is made by a sand core. The core is made in a special mold and is made of sand that solidifies like a brick. Said core is inserted into the mold that makes the transmission casting. When metal is poured into the mold, it fills the void between the outer sand mold and the core. After metal solidifies, the inner sand core is knocked out, leaving the interior features.
Sand casting doesn't allow the detail necessary to core in holes that will subsequently be tapped. These holes are drilled, then tapped. Things that can result in cocked holes could be due to rework (drill or tap broke in hole requiring repair), or the method of fixturing part during the drill/tap operation.
The transmission housing is a sand cast, iron casting. The interior is made by a sand core. The core is made in a special mold and is made of sand that solidifies like a brick. Said core is inserted into the mold that makes the transmission casting. When metal is poured into the mold, it fills the void between the outer sand mold and the core. After metal solidifies, the inner sand core is knocked out, leaving the interior features.
Sand casting doesn't allow the detail necessary to core in holes that will subsequently be tapped. These holes are drilled, then tapped. Things that can result in cocked holes could be due to rework (drill or tap broke in hole requiring repair), or the method of fixturing part during the drill/tap operation.
Gear vs Hydro debate - it's called "engineering tradeoffs". Both have certain advantages and disadvantages.
Solution - Own one of each.
Solution - Own one of each.
sblunier
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Donnie,
3/4" pipe 16" deep......you would probably be money ahead to rent a small walk beside vibratory plow (Vermeer, Ditchwitch, etc.) from the local rent-a-center. 16" deep and pulling a pipe string (BTW, better run at least a 1" mole on the head of the string) is way out of a Cub Cadet's league.
I like using my Cubs for as much as I can, but in this case it makes sense to get the right tool for the job.
(Message edited by sblunier on February 09, 2005)
3/4" pipe 16" deep......you would probably be money ahead to rent a small walk beside vibratory plow (Vermeer, Ditchwitch, etc.) from the local rent-a-center. 16" deep and pulling a pipe string (BTW, better run at least a 1" mole on the head of the string) is way out of a Cub Cadet's league.
I like using my Cubs for as much as I can, but in this case it makes sense to get the right tool for the job.
(Message edited by sblunier on February 09, 2005)
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