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Archive through February 09, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Marcus,
The gearbox isn't using any of the power or horsepower so the speed it runs at doesn't matter. A gearbox does have an efficiency rating but that rating is constant though the speed range. You do have to be careful not to run the gearbox too fast or too slow. Running it too fast could explode the bearings. Running it to slow could require too much torque.
Calculating speed an torque through a drive train is pretty easy. Lets say you have a 14 HP motor. That HP rating should give you about 20.5 ft/lbs of torque and 3600 rpm at the drive shaft. More than likely you won't have the engine running full throttle, but we'll use those numbers anyways.
Speed and torque are inversely proportional. If the speed goes up the available torque goes down and visa-versa.
Now that we know that lets look at the snow thrower as an example. Starting with the PTO and the gear box pulleys. You should take the drive pulley inches and divide it by the driven pulley inches. I think the stock pulleys are the same size so there isn't any reduction. So lets use the 3 inch pulley mod as an example. Lets say the PTO pulley is 4.5 inches and the gearbox pulley is 3 inches. Then that is 4.5/3 or 1.5. You multiply your speed by that number and you divide your torque by that number. The input shaft is spinning at 3600*1.5 or 5400 rpm and has 20.5/1.5 or 13.6 ft/lbs of torque.
The same holds true with the sprocket teeth. If the drive is 18 teeth and the driven is 36 teeth the speed is multiplied by 18/36 or .5 and the torque is divided by .5 (I never counted the teeth on my thrower I am guessing at the number of teeth). Using the calculations above your auger would spin 5400*.5 or 2700 rpm and the torque would be 27.2 ft/lbs.
To answer your question. If you go from, lets say a 18 tooth on the drive sprocket, to a 20 tooth you would be decreasing your speed by 10% and increasing available torque by 10%.
If you give me your exact teeth and pulley sizes I can calculate it for you.
 
TOM - I'm going to the IHC CC Winter convention Friday night and all day Sat. You want to bring Your 782-D up for "Safe Keeping" I'd be Glad to help You out!
drool.gif
 
Jim/Herbert,
Wouldn't mind seeing the information on voltage regulators. Please send my way if you think of it. (Maybe there's a place for it in FAQ).
 
Thanks Myron B and Kraig, i have began my search now for a new engine for the 482.
Transmission seems to be OK and the mower is complete and runs, so i will let you know what i do in my nexts monthes.

Roberto Uruguay S.Am.
 
Terry,

"More than likely you won't have the engine running full throttle"........snowthrowing is always a FULL THROTTLE application, as is mowing......part throttle doesn't get you anywhere in those jobs.
 
Speaking of engine speed & blowers, my setup now is the QA36A with a 2.75" (pitch diam, something like a 3.125 OD) in front of my 169 running up against the governor at 4000RPM. I think I've found out about where "too" far is!!!
 
Steve,
Let me clarify. More than likely the engine won't be running at 3600 RPM. And I believe the horsepower rating is at 3600 RPM.

Has anyone ever put a tachometer on an engine running full throttle?
 
I have an opportunity to buy a 782 without an engine. Is the engine a common one that could easily be found. Is it worth the trouble to bring it back to life or should I just look for a complete one? I have a 106 and it is a great little machine. I would just like to have a red one.

Bill Perry
 
Terry,

All of my engines tach out at 36-3800 rpm no load (measured with a Briggs vibra-tach), and when possible they get checked with the deck engaged as well (usually isn't any noticeable difference).

I like to tune the main jet with the deck engaged to make sure it's "fat" enough to handle load swings with ease.

BTW, BE CAREFUL if you tune/check with implements engaged.
 
I may have lucked out on the 122. I ordered a wiring harness & ign. switch yesterday. I removed the voltage regulator cover today & it looks brand new. I started tracing out wires & found the small wire to the starter/generator "stuck" under the battery box. I think it may have rubbed thru, causing the short. I HOPE anyhow!
The po put a push button & toggle switch in for the starter.
 
Steve,
To truly tune and time the motor under load you should not only have the implements running but you should also have the hydro loaded down.

Now if I could just convince my wife to ride side saddle when I snow throw.
clappy.gif
 
Can't believe I ran across an IH Cub Cadet specific web site. God bless the internet.

I have a Cub Cadet 1650 with the original thrower, rear blade, tiller and 44 inch deck. I used it for 5 years in the mid 90's then it sat for 7 years. I kept it stored in my brother's barn (I bought his farm so it's my barn now). I want to do a full tilt restore on the 1650. I have the manuals (service and operator), but I'm certain to need expert feedback from some savvy CC guys. I saw the recent RTFM posts. I always do that, but sometimes the manuals aren't much help.

The Kohler in the 1650 has some issues. Needs rebuilding, likely a new carb and ignition system, and..? Do they still make replacement engines? If so, any idea how much they are?
 
Dave A. -

Yes they're still available but they'll run a LOT more than the cost of a rebuild. And of course, the inevitable emissions issue will/has taken it's toll on future availability. I kinda lost track of where the EPA is on all that.

You can check some of the sponsor's sites above, some of them carry new engines.

And if your engine is way out of whack, you can get servicable used blocks to rebuild. See the same sponsors or read thru our For Sale section.
 
Billy P.

782's are good property due to the hyd. lift, and all of the cool 82 series features. The problem is in what you will have to pay for a new/replacement engine. New KT-17 Series II motors run in the $1600 range...ouch. Small Engine Warehouse, has Kohler Command and Honda kits for $1200-$1500. E-Bay has used engines, but with KT-s and Magnums you have to be really carefull to know what you are getting, they can be $$$ to rebuild.

You might consider putting a 12,14,16hp single in it, they basically drop right in with a few 1282 parts. That would give you a nice running machine with good creature features and hyd. lift...K-series overhauls are cheaper and easier to come by (see sponsers).


Finally, if there are a lot of good parts on the chassis and the price is right, you might consider buying the roller and looking for a rough 682 with a good replacement series II or Mag engine......just a thought.
 
Dave A.

To add to Bryan's comments, a professional overhaul on your 16hp will run less than 1/2 the cost of a long block replacement engine. If it were mine, I'd pull the 16, strip it down and take it to the local machine shop. Depending on what the bore measures etc., bore it, turn the crank, and then put it all back together with an overhaul kit from one of the sponsers........you'll be good for another 20 years.
 
I had time Saturday to work on the IH kerosene heater. Was able to find parts for a place in Indiana called "Portable Heater Parts". They carry "Century" brand parts (that made IH heaters) and they were very reasonable. I replaced the transformer and it fired right off.

Thanks to all that sent e-mails and who I talked to on the phone. This forum is a great network for help.
 
Hey David- before you dive into the 16hp, what are these 'issues' that you have? Weak-running, hard starting, backfiring, stalling-out... barfing oil... knocking, crankcase-with-a-view? Perhaps it isn't as bad as you think... ???

Do tell, and let the group point you better'n making rash decisions...

DK :)
 

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