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Archive through December 26, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Ken Updike >
After doing some searching on the net, mainly across the street I see that you may be refering to the <font color="ff0000">red book </font><font color="000000">as the one with the photo of a cub cadet on it.
I however am refering to the </font><font color="ff0000">red book </font><font color="000000">with the Farmall cub on the cover.
purchased at the local F&F store.
I hope this removes the confusion I may have started.</font>
 
Lonny B...The <font color="ff0000">RED</font> book I refer to has the Farmall CUB on the cover. The photo of the red covered book with the 1450 on it was a prototype cover photo used by Motorbooks. THAT book actually has a yellow cover now......
 
Chuck,

You have a "fizzle" leak somewhere in the valve or cylinder O-ring. As long as it isn't an operational problem and only drifts down over long periods of time (hours/days) I wouldn't worry about it. Most Cub Cadets out there won't hold the deck up over night, it's really no big deal unless the deck sinks back down in minutes.

As stated before, the lift cylinder is double acting, so it can be powered down. Pull the center frame cover (with the deck off). When in the lowered position the cylinder bracket on the rock shaft should "knuckle over" and allow the rockshaft to float. If it doesn't do this it is locked for full down pressure and the lock out pin should probably be removed.

If we ask nicely, maybe Kraig will post a photo of the lock-out, etc.
 
Hey all!
I'm getting ready to tear down and repaint the very tired paint job on my 102. The only thing is that I'm worried about lead paint. Did they use lead paint on theese tractors?

I plan on sanding it with a DA sander and a whirewheel on my angle grinder, they both bareley touh the real metal when getting down to the shiney bits!!

Thanks!
Trev
 
Kraig:

Thanks for the parts link. Its great- everything is there. Have you ever ordered from this company? How was the service?

(Message edited by jzimmerman on December 29, 2005)
 
Question on Driveshaft Couplings on a 128

I am in the process of adding a creeper so I can run a snow thrower.

I noticed that the hole for the roll pin is getting elongated and pretty beat up on both the creeper input shaft as well as the transmission input shaft. Should I plan to replace these shafts? Does it make sense to weld the holes and redrill them to take out the play?

Some of you have probably been there before, and I appreciate your advice.

Thanks

Zimm
 
Trevor...Lead based paint was STD issue by IH. Some of the new paint is now lead-free. Check the label.
 
Finally, there is a platinum electrode spark plug available for small engines. Made by Autolite, the MP 4316 substitutes for the Champion H 10 and H 8 (heat range is probably in between these two), thus making it suitable for both stock and slightly raised compression ratios. This plug is suitable for the K241 through K341 Kohler engines. A
J 8 equivalent is also available, but I don’t know the Autolite number at this time.

I found these at my local Farm & Fleet store. They come two to a blister pack for $9.95. Not cheap, but they should outlast a conventional plug many times over. The fine center wire electrode should help cold weather starting…less surface area means more concentrated spark energy.

Many thanks to a forum member who told me about these. Unfortunately, I don’t remember who it was.

33166.jpg
33167.jpg


33168.jpg
 
Hey Kupdike, thanks for the quick answer....so if these things are coated in lead, what do you guys do to get the OEM paint off of them....I have a family member that is still in bad shape after lead poisoning....I really woulden't wish it on anyone!

Thanks.
Trev
 
Well I ain't Kraig but here is a picture of the rockshaft without the lock pin. The lock pin goes in the empty hole above the pin where the bracket is folded.

33170.jpg
 
I have a very rusty 42" snow blade on my 149 on which I just replaced the scraper blade. How do you get the skid shoes off or adjust them? What is the proper adjustment? Many thanks.
 
Dave "G",
Use a 3/4" wrench (I think) on the nut on top, loosen it up several turns. Then use the same wrench and unscrew the "skid shoe" to the desired length to get you the clearance you need. On hard pavement I adjust it to 1/8"-1/4". If you have a gravel drive make the gap higher, as to not scrape up all the rock.
 
Anyone know what color the "International" pictured below in Paul Funk's post is. When I was about 11 or 12 years old (late 60's early 70's)our neighbor had a CC and me and my Dad can't agree on what it was. He claims it had a round hood,I don't think it did, I probably cut our neighbors and our yard about a hundred times but all I can remember for sure is that it was a Cub Cadet and it was Yellow with a white hood (traditional CC colors). Wish now I had paid more attention to it but the only thing I can remember for sure is that it was dependable as long as it had a hot battery on it. Give anything if I could find someone related to "Mr. Mayo" who could remeber what model CC it was. thanks, Tim H.
 
Santa droped these off for me this year.
33173.jpg

I must have done some things right last year to get them.
I wonder what they where?


Ken U.
<font color="ff0000">Red Book </font><font color="000000">page 59, second colume, next to the photo on the right side is where I spoted the typo.</font>
 
Am I a geek? Yup. Am I an <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadet nut? Yup.
lol.gif


33175.jpg


Rick M. -

Betcha wish your V551 could do that
wink.gif


<font size="-2">yeah yeah, I know, nice fingerprint...</font>
 
Hello All,
I have a 682 CC with a leaking hydro relief valve. Oil seeps out of what I believe is the vent hole on top of the valve. I disassembled it for cleaning and found the O ring inside worn out and hard.I have located the external O rings in the parts manual but cannot find a part number for the internal one.I am using one that is close to the correct size but would like to get the correct one if this one leaks again.Does any one have a part number or the actual dimensions for this O ring? Thanks in advance.
 
Read the post on the platinum plugs. I cant help but recall the advice I have gotten time and time again for my air cooled VW and have seen in practice on countless engines even Hi-Po modified engines. NO PLATINUM PLUGS IN AN AIRCOOLED ENGINE. It may not be a concern in these but I know for the the VW's there is a major concern over excessive heat in the head.

Is it difficult to replace the O-ring in the lift cylinder???
 
I believe the lift cylinders on the 1x9's and QL's are non-serviceable, so the o-ring can't be replaced because there is no way to take the cylinder apart. The valve is a different story though.
 
Dave C:

Here is a Diagram for your needs:

33179.jpg


This information is available from the TC-193 Parts Manual - Section F - Page 18

(Message edited by rbedell on December 30, 2005)
 
Steve B., I would have posted the requested photo but yesterday I was on a "Cub Run" to Iowa with Art A. and Robb K.. :eek:)

Joe Z., no I have never ordered parts from them, I usually buy parts from forum sponsors and local CaseIH and or Cub Cadet dealers.

Richard, thanks for covering for me. :eek:)

Trevor, excellent question on the lead paint. I've often wondered but never asked how others handle it. I always wear a half face respirator when sanding and grinding on Cubs and when painting. I usually do the grinding and sanding in the driveway but with a gravel drive there's no way I can sweep up the old paint and I really don't want all that paint dust in my garage.

Tim H., if I recall correctly it has been suggested that the Cub in the picture that Paul Funk posted is red with a white hood. It is believed that there were 3 prototypes but there may have been 3 varients of one or two prototypes. Hopefully someday we'll find more evidence about these early development tractors.
 
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