Bryan, OK, I'll be on the look out for it. Thanks!
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Archive through December 26, 2005
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I'm surprised this isn't in the FAQ. I know theres an online source for manuals for narrow frame Cubs but I can't find it any more.
I'm putting the motor back in my 72 after replacing the flywheel and drive hub. I can't remember which way to connect the wires to the s/g and can't find my copy of the manual.
Thanks
I'm putting the motor back in my 72 after replacing the flywheel and drive hub. I can't remember which way to connect the wires to the s/g and can't find my copy of the manual.
Thanks
Curt R,
I sent you a big pic too.
I sent you a big pic too.
I am visiting my mom and dad in Illinois and he is having trouble with his CC 1000. It turns over but won't run. I checked it out and it isn't getting spark most of the time. When I pulled the plug it wouldn't spark but if you hold the starter long enough it will fire just enough tro trip the starter.
Dad had a small engine guy look at it. He took the shotgun approach: he replaced the coil, condenser, points, and plug. Still won't run.
I am at a loss on this one because he replaced everything I would have replaced. I checked the wire that goes to the points and it isn't grounding out. I took the coil and condenser off the CC 108 that runs and it still won't fire.
Dad hasn't had this 1000 long, but I grew up on the 108. Is there anything different on tghe quiet line models that I should be checking? Any ideas on what the problem could be?
Any help is appreciated. I want to get this fixed before I leave on January 4.
Bob Elliott
Dad had a small engine guy look at it. He took the shotgun approach: he replaced the coil, condenser, points, and plug. Still won't run.
I am at a loss on this one because he replaced everything I would have replaced. I checked the wire that goes to the points and it isn't grounding out. I took the coil and condenser off the CC 108 that runs and it still won't fire.
Dad hasn't had this 1000 long, but I grew up on the 108. Is there anything different on tghe quiet line models that I should be checking? Any ideas on what the problem could be?
Any help is appreciated. I want to get this fixed before I leave on January 4.
Bob Elliott
rchristensen
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- Richard Christensen
Bob E.
Check that the ground wire from the frame to the engine is on and good. The older Quietlines had one from the starter to the bolt holding the front grill on. The later quietlines had a ground from the side tin on the engine to the bolt holding the right side firewall between the engine and gas tank. Remember the Quietlines are ISO mounted engines.
Then check the bolt that the coil bolts to, it is a stud backed into the side of the engine for its ground. I usually wipe it and be sure it is making good contact with the engine. If someone has painted the tin or it is rusted you may not have a good ground.
Make sure the area that the points are mounted on is clean and the connectors on the wire from the points to the coil are good. They sometimes have a habit of breaking right where they are crimped on to the wire.
That's all I can think of right now, unless you are running champion plugs then you may try another one or get a autolite 216.
Check that the ground wire from the frame to the engine is on and good. The older Quietlines had one from the starter to the bolt holding the front grill on. The later quietlines had a ground from the side tin on the engine to the bolt holding the right side firewall between the engine and gas tank. Remember the Quietlines are ISO mounted engines.
Then check the bolt that the coil bolts to, it is a stud backed into the side of the engine for its ground. I usually wipe it and be sure it is making good contact with the engine. If someone has painted the tin or it is rusted you may not have a good ground.
Make sure the area that the points are mounted on is clean and the connectors on the wire from the points to the coil are good. They sometimes have a habit of breaking right where they are crimped on to the wire.
That's all I can think of right now, unless you are running champion plugs then you may try another one or get a autolite 216.
tschweizer
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- Travis Schweizer
Bob, check to see that you have 12 volts to the + side of the coil while cranking. If no voltage, or low voltage, check the connection at the ign switch to see if it's corroded.
12V to coil has been checked. I forgot to say I checked that in the post.
Also the +12V is connected to the (+) terminal and the points and condenser are connected to the (-) terminal.
Also the +12V is connected to the (+) terminal and the points and condenser are connected to the (-) terminal.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Bad Points or oily (yep it happens w/new ones) ? or the point pushrod hanging up? Borrow a volt/ohmeter (4 bucks at Harbor Freight), Lift the wire from the minus (-) side of the coil, isolate the point wire from the condensor wire. Set the meter on the lowest resistance (ohms)setting and hook one meter lead to the point wire and the other to a good bare metal spot on the block. Roll the engine over and when the points close the meter should read zero ohms or very close to it. When the points open it should read the same as if the meter leads aren't hooked to anything (aka infinity). The points function in a battery igniton is to close (complete) the circuit and open it. Ya get the spark when the circuit opens... sorry if this is too basic, but if it helps.........
KGI
(Message edited by kide on December 26, 2005)
(Message edited by kide on December 26, 2005)
KGI
(Message edited by kide on December 26, 2005)
(Message edited by kide on December 26, 2005)
I must point out that with 3 Cub/Cub Cadet related books out in print now, (2 by myself, 1 by Hank Will) we (Hank & me) have devsied a new method to ID these books, so confusion is kept to a minimum.
The two books I have "penned" (actually typed) have a red cover (Cub-Cub cadet color HISTORY book) or a Yellow cover (International Cub-Cub Cadet ORIGINALITY book). Hank Will has done a book on Cub Cadet only with a Blue cover. We (Hank & me) have agreed to the folowing ID system that we would like others to adopt to keep things straight.
PLEASE REFER ALL REFERENCES TO A SPECIFIC BOOK BY ITS COVER COLOR!!! If you are referring the Red book, Yellow book or Blue book, it makes all discussions easier to follow.
The Yellow book covers the IH Cub tractors buitl 1963 to 1979, the 154-185-184 Cub Loboy's and the IH built Cub Cadet Garden Tractor (1960-1980). The pre 1963 Cub's are mentioned, but not in detail, as Guy Fay has covered these in his Letter series and Hundred Series Originality Guides. Space limitations precluded that this material not be repeated here.
I hope that everyone enjoys the great reference materials that we provide. It is a pleasure and honor to research/create/share the information of IH with everyone.
Of course all mistakes in my books are my own or the printers fault. Feel free to contact me with any errors so they can be fixed for future reprints
The two books I have "penned" (actually typed) have a red cover (Cub-Cub cadet color HISTORY book) or a Yellow cover (International Cub-Cub Cadet ORIGINALITY book). Hank Will has done a book on Cub Cadet only with a Blue cover. We (Hank & me) have agreed to the folowing ID system that we would like others to adopt to keep things straight.
PLEASE REFER ALL REFERENCES TO A SPECIFIC BOOK BY ITS COVER COLOR!!! If you are referring the Red book, Yellow book or Blue book, it makes all discussions easier to follow.
The Yellow book covers the IH Cub tractors buitl 1963 to 1979, the 154-185-184 Cub Loboy's and the IH built Cub Cadet Garden Tractor (1960-1980). The pre 1963 Cub's are mentioned, but not in detail, as Guy Fay has covered these in his Letter series and Hundred Series Originality Guides. Space limitations precluded that this material not be repeated here.
I hope that everyone enjoys the great reference materials that we provide. It is a pleasure and honor to research/create/share the information of IH with everyone.
Of course all mistakes in my books are my own or the printers fault. Feel free to contact me with any errors so they can be fixed for future reprints
Ground wire is present and in good condition. I checked the engine for ground and got no resistance. I also tried a plug out of a CC 108 that is running and had no luck.
Yesterday I did the check with the meter as you suggested. The points functioned as they should. After I verified that the circuit was working properly I pulled the plug, put the spark plug wire on it and grounded the body. I turned the ignition on and used a peice of plastic to open the points. After several tries no spark. I took the coil and condenser off the 108 that runs and tried it again. Still no spark.
I have worked on the 108 for years and understand it very well. I haven't worked on the 1000 much at all. I know the engine is the same other than the electrical system, muffler box, etc. Is there anything in the ignition circuit that is different than the 108 that I am missing?
Yesterday I did the check with the meter as you suggested. The points functioned as they should. After I verified that the circuit was working properly I pulled the plug, put the spark plug wire on it and grounded the body. I turned the ignition on and used a peice of plastic to open the points. After several tries no spark. I took the coil and condenser off the 108 that runs and tried it again. Still no spark.
I have worked on the 108 for years and understand it very well. I haven't worked on the 1000 much at all. I know the engine is the same other than the electrical system, muffler box, etc. Is there anything in the ignition circuit that is different than the 108 that I am missing?
rbedell
Well-known member
Bob E:
If all the parts you mentioned are good, and that you have established that the negative (-) side of the coil is good, then there is only one thing left. It has to be the positive side. As a Test Procedure, you could run a jumper wire from the (+) battery terminal to the (+) side of the coil.
If it runs, then you are loosing the Positive voltage somewhere between the battery and the coil. Then you could trace this down. Bad Switch, bad connection, bad terminal, and/or bad wire...??
Just my suggestion.....
If all the parts you mentioned are good, and that you have established that the negative (-) side of the coil is good, then there is only one thing left. It has to be the positive side. As a Test Procedure, you could run a jumper wire from the (+) battery terminal to the (+) side of the coil.
If it runs, then you are loosing the Positive voltage somewhere between the battery and the coil. Then you could trace this down. Bad Switch, bad connection, bad terminal, and/or bad wire...??
Just my suggestion.....
kide
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- Gerry Ide
(I cringe)
How about the plug wire itself? .... (sorry, Bob)
I agree with Roland - if the points are gounding properly when closed and the wiring is solid, then it must be something back on the Primary side of the coil. Try the hotwire approach as he suggests (it always worked on cars when I was a ki.. Oh never mind) Too bad the L&G guy did a shotgun on it, but they've gotta turn 'em out as fast as they can.
How about the plug wire itself? .... (sorry, Bob)
I agree with Roland - if the points are gounding properly when closed and the wiring is solid, then it must be something back on the Primary side of the coil. Try the hotwire approach as he suggests (it always worked on cars when I was a ki.. Oh never mind) Too bad the L&G guy did a shotgun on it, but they've gotta turn 'em out as fast as they can.
I have a better idea!
Lets say Hanks book and Kens book ONE & TWO.
Much easier IMHO!
It ain't like it's rocket science to differentiate between 3 books. Ok, it might be for one or two of us, grin
Lets say Hanks book and Kens book ONE & TWO.
Much easier IMHO!
It ain't like it's rocket science to differentiate between 3 books. Ok, it might be for one or two of us, grin
What if someone were color blind.......?
Kraig,
They would be SOL and wouldn't know what tractor they were ridin anyway!
They would be SOL and wouldn't know what tractor they were ridin anyway!
I thought of teh plug wire earlier today and tried the wire form the 108. The wire was too short so I grounded the plug and then opened and closed the points. No spark.
I am going to try the hotwire trick tomorrow. I checked for voltage at the + terminal and I had voltage. If I had voltage the coil should work, right? I am still going to try the hotwire trick.
Like I said before if you held the starter long enough the engine would fire once. Would low current to the coil do this? I am wondering what the condition of the points is.
Once I had a problem with the PTO switch. The starter wouldn't work and I traced it down to the switch. I took the switch apart and cleaned it and everything worked great. I wonder of there is a similar problem with somethng between the ignition and the coil.
I am going to try the hotwire trick tomorrow. I checked for voltage at the + terminal and I had voltage. If I had voltage the coil should work, right? I am still going to try the hotwire trick.
Like I said before if you held the starter long enough the engine would fire once. Would low current to the coil do this? I am wondering what the condition of the points is.
Once I had a problem with the PTO switch. The starter wouldn't work and I traced it down to the switch. I took the switch apart and cleaned it and everything worked great. I wonder of there is a similar problem with somethng between the ignition and the coil.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Charlie P. I have to agree with you. Hank's book and Ken's books one and two. I'm still waiting for a book to reveal the secret to stopping a hydro leak. (I'll send that to you shortly.)
