Archive through December 22, 2004

[dkamp]

Todd- if you did the rebuild right, then it's gonna have some good compression. Point of note- I haven't found Kohlers that like to start in cold environment... especially if they're on hydros... so much that I've been contemplating conjuring up an in-out box to disengage the hydro for cold-start and warmup, then shut down the motor, engage the box, then restart with cold-hydro, but warm engine...

Anyway, having a fresh rebuild in cold weather really makes it tough yet. As the guys mentioned, battery and cables are top priority. Don't even think of going to multi-vis for break-in oil. DO check to see that your spark-plug isn't being contacted by the piston or valve... if the ground electrode is smashed, there's contact... which means you've got the wrong plug. Another thing to note- the Automatic Compression Release may be out-of-whack, or you may need to unhook one of the two springs (note on it is in the Kohler manual) in order to get it to fire up-to-starting-speed.

FWIW, I'm not overly thrilled with the SG-start K-motors, but i've got one ring-gear start K301 in my Loader-Mutt that's probably got 25 hours on it since rebuild, and it started up okay (with a hydrostat and 8gpm hydraulic pump hooked to it) in a 15F garage tonight. It wasn't happy about starting, and took a minute before all that oil (engine, hydrostat, and hydraulics) warmed enough to actually flow... but it did warm up and play nice.

One of these days, I'll be pulling down an SG, and looking for ways to improve the performance... I think that increasing the cranking speed by 50% would totally change the attitude of cold-starting K-motors. Now, I WISH I could figure out why the K241's always demand choke (even for warm start), while the 12's only need a quick stab when cold... strange, man!

 

[dkamp]

BTW... got front tires mounted on Loader-Mutt tonight. Unfortunately, I couldn't get the 20-10.00-8 Super Lugs to fit up there... they cleared the frame and hydraulic steering just fine, full lock-to-lock, but support-bracketry for the loader would snag the inner 2" of bar-lug pretty hard when the axle is level, and dig in deep when the axle's rocked to one side. So... I backed down to 18-8.50-8's with zero-offset 7.5" wide rims, and all fits pretty well.

I went with 6-ply for the load-rating... they're pretty stiff, and gave me a fair workout getting mounted-up... I imagine they'll grant a ride equivalent to the 26-12-12 TruPower 6-ply rears with 7 gallons of fluid in each... that is to say... 'firm'. Next up: automotive battery, decent lights... treadle ergonomics... more ballast... dual brakes...

 

[ppimentel]

Question on adding weight....

Is it good to create these weight brackets that attach on the frames? I'm curious as to how much weight the wheel bearings can take....With wheel weights, the weight is off the bearings.

The reason why I'm asking is because with the blower attachment these tractors need a counter weight but I don't want to create more problems down the road by ruining bearing.

Any thought?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's my QA42 on one of my 125s in 6" of heavy wet snow:

The above photos were taken after I had cleaned it up and repainted it and then gave it a good coat of Slip-Plate. Prior to the clean up it had a lot of rust on the inside of the auger housing and discharge chute. It did not work well at all.

Before:

 

[dkirk]

On the subject of cold weather starting of Kohlers, the use of winter blend gasoline helps significantly. Don't use gas that you purchased during the summer or even fall. Around November or so, dump all stored gas into your car's tank, then fill your jerry cans with fresh fuel from a reputable station. Winter grade fuel has a higher vapor pressure and vaporizes more readily in cold weather, vastly improving starting. This is especially so on carbureted engines.

Conversely, in the summer, purge jerry cans and fill with summer grade fuel to prevent any tendency to vapor lock.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Merry Christmas and a Happy New year to all my fellow Cubbers!!!! )

 

[jgeorg]

Dave, on my 109 with the old K241, I had to choke the heck out of it to get and keep it running when cold. With the rebuilt K241 it's as you say 1 stab and running. Thats with the same carb!

John

 

[KevinX]

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To show our appreciation to all of those who have chosen to register as users but not seen any advantage to becoming paid users we have opened the classified section to all presently registered users. This will be in effect until we decide to change it back. We have done this for several years now and it is usually in effect until after the new year rolls around.


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Thanks again one and all. Have a Happy Holiday season and a prosperous and bright new year.

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[pdorow]

Paul B.

Ya I know wht you mean, I just cut my grass for the last time this year also.

 

[pdorow]

P- Pimentel

When I was a youth my father purchased a new 122 and later a 125 or 127 I can't remember, anyhow both tractors had weight boxes and we never had any problems. However I think they had cast iron axle housings not aluminum like on my 1250.

 

[jmmiller]

my 1250 axle housings are Cast Iron

 

[sblunier]

Early 1250's had CI housings....very late xx00/50 tractors had AL housings, as did the x82 series........you are both right.

 

[klorenz]

Saturday Dec 18th

 

[ppimentel]

Not sure what the housing have to do with putting a load on the bearing....mine are cast housings but there are still bearings inside.

It sounds like I don't have to worry anyway, especially seeing all the different weight box's people are making...

 

[tturner]

I'd like to thank the forum for opening up the classifieds for everybody, when you are 16, and have a truck payment, insurance, gas, and everything else it is hard to spend $60.00 extra every year for membership to a forum. I am not being a tightwad by not paying, I just can't. Very off topic, but I have a perfect driving record and it costs me $2100 a year to be able to drive. The goverment needs to pressure insurance companies to lower their prices. It is not fair that they assume that every teenager is going to have a wreck and punish everybody for it. That $2100 is JUST liabilty!

 

[bwatson]

I have a hydro question. I have a 1450 that somebody towed somewhere in its life. It was ok to mow with, but its almost impossible to keep a steady speed to till with. Since it now has a gazillion hours on it the only way it will move in cold weather is by heating it thoroughly with a torpedo heater. Even then the hydraulic lift is VERY slow. I have a 1250 parts tractor, but it has hand lift. Can I take the "guts" from its hydro and put them in the 1450? The 1250's hydro doesn't have the ports for the hydraulic lift. Hand lift would be fine for the deck, but that tiller and snowthrower are HEAVY. BTW, pointing the heater into the front of the engine and warming it up sure changes the Kohler engine's attitude about cold weather.

 

[klorenz]

Wednesday Dec 22nd - Woke up to 8" of snow this morning in S.E. Missouri. More coming tonight. My 10 year old son & I had a blast blading snow.

 

[stanner]

Brian W..

i'll almost guarantee that if you change the hydro fluid and filter out with fresh case-IH hy-tran AND a new, Cub-Cadet Llabeled filter, that it'll go right off the bat when it's cold.

this sounds like a incorrect filter/ non hytran fluid issue... keep us posted..

 

[sblunier]

Brian,

Read FAQ #14, then look at the linkage in question.....it will be SHOT. Rebuild it and do a filter/fluid change and I'll bet it's fine.

If not, yes you can swap parts around, BUT....that's not a job for someone who doesn't know what they are doing.

Centering spring linkage is the #1 culprit here!!!

 

[pdorow]

Paul P.

I was just making a point, the weak spot is probably the housing not the bearings.