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Archive through December 11, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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dtanner

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Donald Tanner
Dennis Frisk
funny you should say that,lol the 129 was first and then well I bought all I planned To
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Scott T -
What about cutting off the shaft, but leaving a little sticking out of the sprocket. Then you could use that as a pilot to center up a replaceable hub. Clamp them together, and drill 6 to 8 holes and bolt the hub in place... see sketch. Is there enough room in there for all that??
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Brendan, LMAO funny! Now we need a real picture once you find the pliers please. I was not too good in art class (Sorry Art A.)
Man that Jim Cartwright can illustrate!
We made a bunch of those pliers when at Tecumseh years ago.
 
starting a 128 in cold weather.

Kohler, K301A.

ok, what is the secret? build a fire under it?

i did some searching here and I found several guys saying they move the throttle and choke while turning it over, because of the automatic compression release. i can get one hand on the throttle and one on the choke, but im not sure what they are using to turn the key with.

i am considering a magnetic oil pan heater.

any other suggestions?
 
Jim Diederichs
thanks for your help on ! I have yet to see anyone post there pliers. just want to do it right close to first. Later Don T
 
Frank:
Start with the throttle wide open and the choke all the way out. Start cranking, when it starts kicking back , start pushing the choke in and leave the throttle wide open. If it quits kicking back, full choke again. Just keep edging the choke in as you're cranking it. As far as I can tell, it warms up a little on each of the kickbacks and will eventually get warm enough to fire on a roll through. As soon as it catches, I shut the throttle down to a little above idle. and keep edging the choke in. If there was ever a case for EFI on a small engine, a K motor in cold weather is it (no cylinder washdown like you get with a carb..). You probably won't find a block heater that will fit anyplace on a Kohler block, but a number of us have found that a magnetic heater stuck to the differential plate, heating up the Hytran works just as well.

BTW - there is an interesting phenomenon in cold weather where the motor will fire (kinda a "chuff chuff") and seem to run while the starter is cranking, but not start. This is due to the ACR holding the exhaust valve open a little, but the engine not spinning fast enough to close the ACR. Used to drive me crazy....
 
Kraig, great photos!! I'll have to take some measurements this weekend and see just how much room is really in there. The flange on the "hub" really only needs to be about 1/4 inch wide max. Well good, now I have something to ponder later on!!
 
Jim, thanks. They were some photos I had taken a few years back for someone that was asking how to remove the bearing collars, amazing how useful photos are.
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I got my initial quote back from Parker today for the hydrualic pump. They disappointed me on this one--$275. That Haldex from Northern sure is looking attractive even though it's slightly bigger than I want. The part number doesn't come up on the Haldex website, so I'll try working through Northern to get the pump curve and radial load rating. I'll keep y'all posted.

Jerry
 
Frank,

I have always used this process:

1st: 10w-30 oil, 5w-30 if it's a "tight" motor and the temps are very cold.

Starting:

1/2 throttle, choke all the way out.

Crank until it starts

choke in 3/4 of the way (leave out about 1/4) and throttle back to about 1/3 until it warms up.

Never has failed me yet.

On really hard starters sometimes you hav eto move the throttle between 1/4 and 3/4 while cranking to find the "sweet spot".

Not to discount others methods, but I have never had good luck starting a K series at full throttle, just my experience.
 
I'm sure we have cussed & discussed this before, but what is the lenth of the rod that pulls up your qa42 snow thrower?
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Putting it on a 1650.
 
Steve:
Mine would never start (till warm weather) leaving either control the way yours does. Weird thing is, this motor (bought in '95) and the original from '74 start exactly the same way for me... I do go with 10W30 in the winter, also..
 
DON T. - Most CC's ever in my shop was six also, but only three were mine. I stored three for Wyatt for a year or two. Maximum I've owned at one time was 4-1/2. 70. 72, 129, 982, and about half of a 123, just the chassis & rearend. Sold the 129 back in '06. Actually kinda traded DAD the 129 for His '51 M FARMALL. He even admitted I got the better end of That deal.

Far as cold weather starting, My 72 starts fine, maybe 1/3 throttle, full choke and it sputters on the first stroke. The 70 does about the same. And the 982 (%#^& ONAN) I have to fuss with. Keep in mind My "Cold Starts" are at 30-50 degrees F. in the insulated shop.
 
OK....I guess this qualifies since I'm "cooking" 149 parts. I have heard that electrolysis tanks will freeze. If I have a couple of parts in there and the juice thrown to it will the tank freeze? It's getting down to a terrible freeze of 22 degrees tonight. Remember, I live in the south and 22 degrees is super cold for us.
 
Wayne:
The solution won't stop it (water and washing soda), but the bubbling might. I don't think the amount of electricity in a typical electrolysis setup is enough to generate heat - but you could check that right now by measuring the temperature of the solution in your tank against the ambient air temp about two feet from it..

You're in a perfect situation to answer the question for all of us....
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This is what is behind the auger sprocket that can't be seen.

182412.jpg


I ended up removing all the auger's inners and started over.

Jim
 
Kendell,

I don't think I have a way to acurately measure the temps you spoke of. I guess I will just see what happens after a cold night. If the parts aren't frozen in a block tomorrow morning then I will assume I will be able to keep derusting. I'm going out to check on things shortly since the temps are already below freezing. I'm hoping the moving water/solution from the bubbles will keep it from freezing.

Time will tell....
 
Frank, have you ever started an old Chevy with a carb engine? Pump the gas in and out while cranking it over, right? That's exactly what I do with the K series. I pull the choke out, turn the key with my right hand, while tickling the governor arm with my left hand. When she starts to fire, I quickly push the choke in while pumping the gas. She starts up like this every time. Just like starting an old car.
 
Wayne-

My electrolysis tank is in our garage right now, and it's not frozen. It's been in the single digits for a couple days. It isn't getting that cold in the garage, but...my tank is not freezing.
 

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