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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I knew I should have edited the horsepower thing (By that post, <u>I</u> only own one garden tractor and the other one probably so mad at me it won't start now - the ground engaging implement idea was what I was fixated on) . Still no word from the ElecTrac people????
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I could run implements with the 106 if I had the rear pto transaxle(but I dont). The front pto is a clutch with a belt. The transaxle is a cast iron rear I dont think there is one iota of aluminum on the whole thing! All I know is that its pretty darn heavy.
 
Hi all, newbie here. I've got an original I'm looking to restore. I want to replace some of the common hardware. Do the abbreviations in the parts manual tell everything about the hardware ( metal type, thread, head, etc) or is there a better way to find out? Should I use galvanized or is using stainless going too far?
Thanks
Jimmy
 
Jim R. -

If you have a print copy of a parts manual all the abbreviations are defined for you. I haven't looked around to see if they're defined in the online parts lookup...
 
I'm the relatively new owner of a 1968 Cub Cadet 124 that I want to restore. I have some questions that might seem pretty basic, but I don't have either a shop or owner's manual.

The battery clamp was not in place. I see that the posts are off center on the battery. Is it supposed to clamp on top of the battery or at an angle to catch the front edge? If the latter is true, the metal clamp is dangerously close to the terminals on the replacement Interstate battery on this tractor.

There seems to be a lot of "slop" in the steering wheel - Is this normal, and how can it be fixed?

Why does the dash read "Lighter" instead of lights - just curious.

The clutch pedal is missing - it's just a steel angle on my 124. What does the original look like?

Are there really no brakes? On this tractor, there is no right hand pedal, and nothing I see that looks like a brake> What am I missing?

I'd appreciate answers to what must seem like naive / dumb questions, but I've got to start somewhere!}}
 
William-
First of all, welcome to the forum...

If you're referring to the battery hold-down when you say "battery clamp", then it sounds like your battery may be in the tractor backwards. The off-center posts should be closer to the rear of the tractor, not the front.

The dash reads "lighter" because there was an optional cigarette lighter that was available at the time.

Yes, the steering slop can be adjusted out. Please read the FAQ (both of them) at the top of the page.

Yes, there are brakes on your tractor. That pedal is a combo clutch/brake pedal. It operates BOTH functions.

At this point you really should try to obtain both a service and operators manual for your tractor. They can be purchased reasonably from some of the sponsors above. It's not that we don't like to answer your questions, but the manuals are a WEALTH of information, and you're going to need them if you really plan to "restore" this tractor.

Jim Raleigh-
Welcome to the forum also!

You mention that you are going to "restore" your Original, but you also want to replace the hardware.

If you're looking for a good working restoration and want fresh hardware that's easy to install/remove, then feel free to replace all of the hardware with whatever "plated" hardware they sell at your local hardware store.

But.... (and I'm interjecting my opinion here)

If you're truly going to "restore" (in your words) this tractor, then you probably want to keep (and clean up) the original <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> hardware which will have the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> on the bolt-heads. That's really the only way to get a "correct" restoration.

I have "redone" tractors that have needed replacement hardware due to rust and wear. I usually either buy some good <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> hardware from a forum-sponsor or find a "parts" tractor that I can keep in the weeds to rob stuff off while I'm restoring the first tractor.
 
108, clutch won't disengage. Initial problem identified. After removing the tunnel cover and side plate, I found the outer race of the t/o brg. back over the spring. So, I have ordered a new brg and cluch disc. I'd like the benefit of some of your experience.

1. Is there a perfered, or easy method of R&R for the clutch/driveshaft ass'y, as it is obviously under pressure from the spring? Is a spring compresser required? I have WD-40'd the barrel pins which have to come out of the rear coupling, but saw fit to seek advice before proceeding.
2. Is it a difficult enough job that it is prudent to replace springs and/or other parts while disassembled, or is it easy enough that only the worn out or broken parts need to be replaced.
I plan to start mowing regularly w/ this 108 and maybe blow snow after obtainging a blower, so I wnat to do it only once and do it right.

Buck Roberts
In advance, I thank you for the advice and my knuckles thank you too.
 
William:
Welcome to the forum!
Many of your questions are answered in the many FAQ articles - click the link at the top of the page and then for much more, click the link to Cubfaq.com on that page.

I'll tackle a few of your questions, although I don't have a 124 .. The "lighter" label is there for the cigarette lighter socket that was in the upper right corner of the IP. If you click on the "parts lookup" link at the top of the page and search on 124 and select the first result, you'll see a complete parts manual. The page with the dash shows the lighter. The brake?? - it's all-in-one with the clutch, part way down for clutch, the rest of the way for brake. You should consider getting an owners manual from one of those great vendors at the top of the page!! Slop in the steering can be the tie rod ends or the gearbox itself - these are all covered in Faqs. Can't tell you about the battery hold down, the hold down that came on the tractor is shown in the parts lookup, though.

BTW - missed your show at the DNC....
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Art:
If it was a quickdraw contest I'd be dead...
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