Archive through August 20, 2012

[digger]

And just in case you want to get confused!

 

[bwittman]

I have tried about everything I can think of, along with what everyone else can think of, to get the vibration out of my 1250 nightmare. Finally, this morning, I called MTD, and asked them if anyone on their help line knew anything about the old IH Quietline and what might be causing my vibration problem. They thought my ISO mounts were way too loose and recommended re-torquing them to 100 inch pounds. I, once again, tightened down the ISO mounts and the vibration problem improved significantly. I didn't use a torque wrench, because it is at the shop and the tractor is at home, but the problem improved from unacceptable to tolerable to fair. I added some felt bumpers to metal-to-metal rub spots and the machine quieted significantly. I will bring home the torque wrench and re-set the torque.

Finally, some progress. We'll see if it changes or stays the same.


The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison. GO Bison!

 

[asmith]

Charlie P.

Thank you for pictures, it helped. I sent you an email also.

 

[hydroharry]

Bill J - in response to your FWIW, I suspect your K241A is original as well. There sure seems to be alot of discussion about the "S", which is a Kohler indication of electric start. In your case the "S" is missing. I have a theory -Could it be Kohler left the "S" off for savings? (Like one of those mattress companies?). Joking aside, I've had several older narrow frame tractors and they all had the "S" as part of the Model No. And I've had several wide frame units that did "not" have the "S" on the Model No. I always wondered about that myself, especially since Kohler brought the "S" back on the Quiet Line wide frame AQS series engines. I had thought possibly it was due to Kohler "including their own integrated starter with the ring gear flywheel." This all falls under the FWIW category - and for what it's worth, it does sorta help to identify whether you have an original or replacement engine (or at least the flywheel shroud). It might be worth noting that the narrow frame tractors also all had the metal ID tag on the flywheel shroud while the wide frames like yours, had a sticker decal ID.

With regard to your engine starting easy and having alot of power, well wait till you get your 1650 going. I'm certain you'll notice the difference. The 1650 will "not" start as easy. The integrated starter on that AQS does not spin the engine as fast as the old Starter/Generator, and it whines/whirs as well, but you'll get used to that.
And as for your smoke coming out the breather, why don't you just remove that breather cover and clean all the parts well, and adjust your valve tappet clearances, and make sure your drain back hole towards the back of the breather box is open (not partially plugged with any crud)and don't forget to get yourself a replacement breather kit with the 2 gaskets and screen, and little rubber spacer dohickey so oil won't leak all over once you reassemble, and when you do make sure you don't torque very much on that nut (basically just snug it) holding the cover on or you'll tweek it and have oil leaking past the gaskets. Your little 10hp might just stop smoking on you, and may even run a bit better and stop smoking thru the breather (but I won't guarantee it). And when you're all done you'll really enjoy getting more seat time cutting your grass since you'll get to smell those Kohler fumes awhole lot more rather than oil smoke.
(PS - Paul Bell was a little stingy on his pic of the Kohler manual page with the engine ID info. If you could see more of the page you would see it also list a year or maybe it's the decade of manufacturer based on the serial number break down, which could also help you verify your engine may be original, or was built close to the same time as your tractor build date. Now don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining about Paul at all. He provides a wealth of info of great value to us all. It's really more of a situation that if you ask the right question you'll get the right answer details - thanks very much Paul, for everything you provide to us all).

 

[wslombo]

ok charlie you did it whats that????

 

[kshultz]

oooh I know! (I'm sure Kraig has better pics)

 

[jdiederichs]

Regarding the "S" suffix on some Kohler engines, I recall Denny say that at some point in time IH stopped purchasing engines with the starter/generator attached and IH then sourced the S/G direct from Delco Remy as a cost savings. That may explain the engine w/o the "S", I can't be certain but that is a theory I have.

 

[pbell]

Is this better Harry? Since it is a picture of the manual page and not a scan, it's the best I can do, and it probably does not go back as far as you wanted.

According to Ken Updikes book, "Original <font color="ff0000">Farmall</font> Cub and Cub Cadet", the "black" S/G's started with the wide frame series although from an earlier discussion about them, some people had them as "original equipment" on the 1x6/7 series. The black ones were supposedly sourced direct from Delco and not through Kohler with the engine.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie,

Shultzie, yep.

 

[digger]

Kraig,
I think Tillage Days was the last time displayed his machines isn't it?
Hard to believe that was 10 years ago!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, I believe you are correct. Dan brought his Cubs to the first two Spring Tillage Days, 2002 and 2003. I don't think he brought them to any Plow Day events after that.

 

[dschwandt]

Sure hope this helps in the "Exhaust Stain on the Grill " dept!

1-1/4" thinwall EMT is a perfect snug fit for this.

Dave S

Charlie was here!

 

[bkiper]

whos 4x4 cub is that Its awsome

 

[digger]

Bryan K.
Did ya miss the Home page for the forum?
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/

 

[jsalatino]

That 4-wheel drive 100 is awsome lookin! The crawler is just as sweet! I wish I had that kinda talent to build somthing like that. A 4-wheel drive cub 100,it doesnt get any better then that. I'm sure it looks even better in person! Nice

 

[jjsmith]

Question regarding qa-42a snowthrower, maybe I haven't found the correct info yet, but my question is what type of grease and type of oil should be used in the gearbox? Its a sealed type, no fill plug. I read in charlies faq to use 75% grease 25% oil. Just wondering what specific types. Also, has anybody ever installed a plug of some sort in the cover of a sealed gearbox to be able to check it without removal? Thanks in advance. Just picked it up and for some reason already anxious to get it dialed in for cold weather.

 

[hydroharry]

Paul B - that pic is perfect, and the info is perfect. It goes back to 1965 which is just far enough for me. And thanks for the info on IH re-sourcing the S/Gs direct instead of thru Kohler. Finally makes some sense about why the wide frames got a Kohler without the "S".

Bill J - ok, please use the chart posted by Paul B and let us know if that 10hp is the correct/original engine for your 109.

JJ Smith - I thought about putting a plug in the 4-bolt style gearbox covers but then decided against it. I figured IH must have decided it wasn't really necessary. I don't think there is really a need to check the grease/oil level once you've verified there is some in there. If you start loosing it you'll see it all over the gear box shafts or box itself, and that would only happen if you have a problem with the box so you'd have to take the cover off anyway. As for using grease or oil, IH went away from the oil and went to grease. I happen to believe the 75%grease/25%oil is probably the best combination. There are 4 bearings in the box and 2 gears. I've seen some with sealed bearings on both sides, some with 1 seal on the bearing, and some with the outer bearing sealed and the inner bearing not sealed. I don't know what IH actually used - but if you look at the box design there is no way for grease to get to the outer bearing unless it gets really warm and liquifies, and then travels along the keyway slot in each of the shafts. I suspect this is the reason for the recommendation of 25%oil, which would travel to the inner side of the outer bearing, and also provide some initial lubrication in the really really cold weather.
I'm not real particular about the type of grease, I think common HP2 is fine, and 80 or 90W gear oil is fine as well.
Now, it's the perfect time of year to get going on your thrower. You might have to remove the auger to make sure the auger bearing are in great shape, and to get at the housing if you're restoring the thrower. If it's rusted up it will certainly not throw the snow as well. And you'll want to make sure the chain sprockets are in good shape and the small rear one is aligned well and not cutting into the needle bearings. I used to install shims on it to keep it aligned with the large sprocket and keep it away from the needle bearings. Have fun with your restoration.

 

[jjsmith]

Hydro, thanks for the quick response. Good point about being able to see it if it is leaking. The one I have has sealed bearings on the outside, a seal, and then a non sealed inner bearing. My plan for this one is to get it all in working order for this season and then next spring/summer tear it down for a good sanding and painting. Its not terrible now and id like to see what it can do before I make it look pretty. I have checked over all bearings, auger, needle, and gear box. All spin nice and free with no slop or "hard spots". U joints are in good shape as well. I have a qa-42 I picked up for parts and I see what u mean about spockets and such, its pretty well trashed except for the gearbox and u joints/shaft. Thanks again!

 

[kplewis]

I can't for the life of me work out where the 'brake pedal return' spring attaches on a IH (red) 582. Could somebody post a photo? Thanks.

Also, any tips on how to free up the seized clutch on a 582?

Thanks (again!)

 

[sblunier]

Dan actually PLOWED with that FWA 100 at the very 1st Blunier Plow Day in the spring of 2001.......and it was COOL to watch!!!!

Notice the dirt on the furrow tires and pumpkin in Kraig's 3/31/2001 pic????