Archive through August 20, 2012

[bbranstetter]

Ah nuts! Got to wait till Wednesday to check out the 1650. Owner is out on business till then. Are there any particular things that need to be looked at on a 1650 other than the fan blades or the muffler box issue? Oh, just thought of something.....What is the rear tire size for that tractor??

 

[rfuller]

Hydrostatic transmission question.

My hydrostatic transmission in my 982 makes a moaning and groaning noise while it is running. The onan engine does not run very well, it does surge and hunt. I pulled the cover off the back and found the oil was full and did have a little slugg on the bottom. I'm planning on chaning the oil and filter and just wondering if anyone has any ideas if that does not fix it?

I looked though the manual section at the Sunstran stuff but was not able to find anything on the moaning and groaning.

 

[jchamberlin]

Big Steve Blunier: Thanks for the tip about the right height on the 82 series drive line; I need to check mine. There weren't any spacers installed on my tractor when I got it; Matt Gonitzke posted that the shaft needed to be at a specific angle; but it's kind of hard to measure an angle. The KT17 in a 782 is supposed to rest on spacers 3/4" tall P/N 750-3009; the same P/N is called out for the Magnum 18 in an 1811 and I don't think the spacers under my engine are more than 1/2" tall, if that.

I'll get a new cup for the 149 when it gets disassembled for painting, but until then I'm just going to try to keep it in there.

Charlie: Whiners are learners! The pain teaches one to seek help. Whiners also make good customers, although I'm sure they wear you out.

 

[mgonitzke]

The 782 spacers are not 3/4", they're 0.49" or something like that, close to 1/2", but not exactly.

 

[dfrisk]

BRIAN - a 1650 had 23-10.50X12 rear tires, turf tires were stock.

ROB - All hydro's whine to a certain extent. Changing the oil & filter sounds like a good idea, it was probably neglected for a long time.

The Onan engine has it's own set of problems. The intake manifold is two pieces, a "Channel" to connect the carb to the two intake ports, and the cover. They tend to develop vacuum leaks. You can remove the top and re-attach but I can't give you any tips on that, I've never had to do that. The governor on the Onan's is a pretty poor design IMO. The centrifugal weights are five ball bearings spinning in a ten finger plastic wheel that's pressed onto a cast iron hub on the cam drive gear. Plastic expands with heat FIVE times as much as iron. So when the engine gets hot the governor wheel slips, which causes the governor to allow the engine RPM to drop then surge. The manual says to replace the cam driven gear which includes the new governor, which requires the crankshaft gear to be replaced which requires complete engine disassembly. You're looking at over $600 for just parts alone. Some people have used Lock-Tight stud & bearing locker to attach the finger wheel to the cam gear, others have used a plastic piece extending into a notch on the gear to positively drive the finger wheel. I haven't fixed mine yet, so I run it with one hand on the throttle most of the time, I don't want the engine to race, the conn rods in the Onan are somewhat weak.

I fought poor running ALL last summer on my 982. New plugs, new fuel pump, carb rebuild, set the points, nothing helped. I finally ordered new points & condensor and installed them one afternoon and when I started the engine up I expected the same old ratty running I was used to. The new condensor did the trick.

You'll find that parts for an Onan will make you appreciate the Kohler engines even more. Onan has been bought & sold so many times that the parts for them are expensive. Some parts are cheap, I've seen complete carb's for them for around $100, but they don't fit the Onan in the 982. Think I paid $40 for the rebuild kit. The fuel pump I bought 9-10 yrs ago and paid over $100. Points & condesor cost around $40 plus shipping.

 

[rneubauer]

Charlie/Harry,

Thanks for the reply on the carb issue yesterday, got busy and forgot to log back on and thank you for the answer's. Harry your pic shows exactly what I was thinking of doing!

 

[kfreeman]

Jeremiah,

Part #750-3009 is: Spacer, .423 X 1.0 X .469 Lg

 

[kostendorf]

Check the front wheel bearings and wheels. Rear tire size is 23-10.50-12

 

[jchamberlin]

Thanks, Ken. Thanks, Matt.

 

[dschwandt]

Brian, lots of stuff to check on that 1650. Like Kieth said, wheel bearings etc. Also check for slop anywhere in the steering, drag link, tie rod ends etc.

If the tractor has been sitting outside a long time and not used, check that the hydro and lift levers move freely in both directions as they can/will rust darn near solid if left neglected long enough. Chances are it will take heat to free them up, Ask me how I know that!!

And then of course if you can get down and dirty check to see that the pan is not resting on the cradle and that the cradle not sitting on the crossmember. See if all the mufflet shielding is in place as well as the grill panels. Battery well rusted out?? Side panels there, Air cleaner all there, gas tank firewall not cracked w/broken and/or missing mounting straps, leaking?? Any lift parts there? lift pivot & arm, any sleeve hitch arms/parts? Custom by "Cobble Craft" wiring mods?? Fiberglass inst panel busted out on the front lip?? And then there is the all important driver seat! Any spare parts available w/it??

I could go on and on as that's a lot of the issues some of the tractors had/have that followed me home this year so far.

Dave S

 

[wshytle]

Paul B.-

Back on August 12 you corrected me as to the definitions to the suffix letters following the engine model number. You stated the "s" stood for both electric starter and starter/gen. I've been looking for that information and can only find this which comes from IH Service Manual-Engine, Fuel & Electrical Systems (Kohler)...manual number GSS-1465-1 W/Revision 1 August, 1979.

I've also looked on several different models of mine with the s/g and can only find the "A"...no "S". Where did you find this information about the "s" standing for both? I'm just curious.

Thanks.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wayne, here's an excerpt from page 14 of the Kohler K series Operator's Manual.

 

[pbell]

Wayne,
If you look at the Specifications pages in the Operators Manuals for all the models from the original through the 169, the engines are identified as K241AS, K301AS, etc., except for the K161S or K161T 7 hp engines. The Kohler Engine Manual just identifies the "S" as electric start and does not specify Starter Generator or Bendix type starter.

The pictures below are of the engine in a 122, an engine from a 126, and a 10 hp engine that is new and in a home built project tractor that a gentleman started in the early/mid 1960's. Everything he used on the project was new at the time, but his health failed and the project was never finished. It sat in his garage from the 60's until I got it 2-3 years ago.

 

[jsalatino]

I'm wondering if anyone here knows where to get a throwout bearing for a older narrow frame cub. I know the sponsors have them,the dealer has one but there askin almost $60.00 each. I've called napa ,savage and a few other places. I've gave them the numbers off the bearing itself and it doesnt cross with anything. I even got 2 different bearings with 2 different numbers and no go. Hope somone can help,somtimes i like to just go to the parts store and pick one up. Does anyone have a number for the bearing? Surely sombody has gone to napa or koi and found the right bearing, lol .If I dont have any luck I'm gonna go to the sponsors above,but now its becoming personal.I've been looking for this bearing for a while now and no luck. Its becoming more of a challenge thats kickin my u know what. Any advise....thanks

 

[wshytle]

Paul, Kraig-

I think what has happened is IH and Kohler have slightly different ways to id an engine or something of that nature. Kohlers were used in so many different tractor makes too. I just went and checked 3-124s, a 126, and a 127. All but one of the 124s just had K-301A...the other one had K-301AS. All engines I checked were original as far as I can tell. I also checked, but didn't photo two 129s and they were both K-301A. My 109 has K-241A as well and I know it's all original...I bought it from the original owner. The page I posted earlier was an IH/Kohler publication...not just Kohler. Does all of this make any sense?

I'm a little confused but that's nothing new. It also seems they could use a little clearer terminology too like "pull start" vs retractable. The bendix "retracts" after the engine starts so...

 

[mgonitzke]

Jonathan S.-

That bearing is proprietary, so your only options are the sponsors or a Cub Cadet dealer.

 

[jsalatino]

Matt G... Thanks for the respond , I would have thought I could get one somwhere other then the dealer. I guess I have no other choice now, lol unless somone else has any secrets they could share. oh well

 

[asmith]

Well after calling a fellow Cub Cadet nut I put the remaining decals on my 71 except for the creeper decal. Can anyone tell me if the right position for it would be on the inside between the shifter and the creeper vent or on the outside between the shifter and the frame?

 

[bjamison]

FWIW - the engine in my 109 is a K241A. I'm no expert, but based on the content of the rest of this tractor, the engine strikes me as original.

It's a little hard to see in the tag.

All I know is this little engine is yellow, starts easy, has what I think is a lot of power, spins the heck out of my 44 inch deck with speed-up pulley and smokes a bit here:

 

[digger]

Alex S.