Archive through August 20, 2006

[jnorcross]

I like the new look. Great job Matt and to any others involed.

 

[bshepherd]

Hi I am new to this, but was looking for any infor on how to change the front clutvh on my 109 hydro. I bought a replacement off ebay but cant figure out how to get the old assembly off. The starter turns the pully but it doesnt seem to be connected to the crank so it just free spins and doesnt turn the motor.

 

[digger]

Brian S.
Welcome to the forum. ;-P
CLICK HERE
And you'll find answers to that and other commonly asked questions.

 

[lbaker]

Friends cc 105- Does great using a blade. But using the deck another story Starts missing and backfiring then quits until cools off. Gas in carb bowl gets hot. Have changed coil. Going to put in new points today (needs them) and head gasket. Any thing else I need to check out? TIA

 

[digger]

Lyle B.
It could be a number of things but if you've changed the coil, also check the condenser and check your valve clearances too.

 

[dgallagher]

I am having a problem with the PTO on my 149. It turns with the PTO disengaged; slower but it still turns. I can hold it back with my hand. I have rebuilt it with the rebuild kit, new bearing, and have put new levers and screws in. I have used the gauge to adjust it and checked it 3 times. The levers seem to be a little loose with the PTO disengaged, but it is adjusted right by the gauge. I also repleced the fiber button with a metal one. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

[mbounds]

David G: There are two gauges. One for the bent end tri-springs & one for the flat end tri-springs. Ya can't mix & match. Could it be that you are using the incorrect gauge?? If you bought a new kit, it'll have the correct gauge in it , but if you just used one laying around....

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[dreid]

Getting ready for winter (already)

I'm about six months behind on the cub projects, and as winter is rushing in (at my pace, at least) would like a comment on whether or not the guys here think that for cold starting that replacing the original points with one of those (sponsor advertised) kits to go electronic will help at all with my 782's 18hp Koehler starting any easier in the cold weather? I keep it in a shed, try to preheat with a blower under it for 1/2 hour before trying it and usually put a charger on the battery as I start and disconnect once it fires, but I worry about shutting it down some distance from civilization (electrical outlet) and not having it catch and fire later when I need to restart.

 

[rbedell]

Dale R:

You state that you have a Kohler 18, which I is a M-18. The M-18 does not have points. It has a electronic control module.

I have a 784 with a KT-17 Kohler. I live in Michigan and I assume our climates are similar. I don't do any of the stuff you do. I simply go to my unheated shed, pull the choke, and she starts right up.

That is my experience with my 782/784.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Good evening all. I feel dumb asking this. My 1965 100 with the original 241 engine (standard bore)is giving me a hard time. The old headbolts were all differnt sizes so, I didn't think anything about keeping them. The new ones from the local Cub dealer are what the parts book said... 3/8 - 16 x 2 1/2". They are all too long. So, I got the next size which would be 2" at the hardware store this afternoon and they are too long. I had the head milled. I don't recall how much only it is wasn't much. What are the correct size bolts or what am I doing wrong. Even with the thick type washers nothing is working out. TIA.

 

[digger]

Marlin,
That head is supposed to use a combination of 2 1/4" and 2 1/2" bolts. Just thinkin out load here but you might want to check the holes and make sure they are not full of gunk or maybe someone snapped the bolts off down inside or something!
You might also try a bottoming tap just to make sure.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Charlie. I just went out and measured the holes. With the head gasket in place and the head on top I used a nail after making sure the threads were clean. All but one hole bottomed out at 2". I found a sack with the old bolts. Don't know why it was there only I guess all the bolts are the same length... 1 3/4 inches. The solitary hole that would take a longer bolt is on the side by the carb mounting... on the corner. That hole actually went all the way through the casting fin area. Could my block have had the holes drilled too short? If someone did break off the old bolts they would of done them all evenly. So, do you think I will be okay by using the 1 3/4 long bolts and just use some red locktite?

 

[mhomrighausen]

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ttalk&th=494878

Just happened to find this little thing by a gentleman, John Harmon. IH related. I wonder if he ever played with any Cubs?

 

[digger]

Marlin,
Since you asked me, I'm gonna tellya. Personally I would not but I know for a fact that there's many out there MUCH SMARTER than I am that will say for sure if it's ok or not.
That's my story and I'm stickin to it.

 

[dreid]

RE: Points

Roland... big dumb fingers, I think I have a k-17, the standard engine that came in the 782.

I want you to tune my carb and set my 782 up before winter!

 

[kweimann]

Roland,Myron,
Is there a throttle shaft bushing for the 8 hp carbs like there is for the 10 through 16's?
The 10-16 bushing has an ID that's too big. I have an 8hp that won't throttle up easily and if you feather it to throtttle up it will die when you put a load on it. Runs good for 1/2 hour till hot. I'm figuring the condenser or the magneto. Kenny

 

[dfrisk]

BRIAN S. - On the larger HP engines the hub of the Starter/generator pulley sometimes comes loose from the pulley itself. I never had the problem with a 7 or 8 HP but the 10, 12, & 14 HP. You can spin the pulley on the hub. My fix requires a bit of welding, couple small tack welds between the hub & pulley and Your back in business.
DAVE PHELPS - Transmission anti-rattle springs.... Yes, You can run without them and as You found out they do break and come loose....I have the best luck sliding them on the three pins (I use one on each clutch disc drive pin because they will wear & break) and slide the engine back so the pins trap the springs onto the pins and slip the ends of the spring over the clutch disc. I've never had any luck keeping the springs on the way the manuals show with them installed with the clutch together. Centrifugal force moves the ends off the disc and they fly away...

 

[rbedell]

Dale R:

The items that I address are: (A) Make sure the ignition system is working correctly, adjusted, and properly timed, (B) Make sure of the fuel flow and the Carb is adjusted correctly, and (C) have a good strong battery.

 

[rbedell]

Ken W:

I think Myron is better suited to answer your question, in that, I have no experience with motors under 10HP.

 

[jschrage]

Does someone have the part number for the spring that provides tension to the mule drive pulley (149 with 44" deck, if it matters). It's labled as "extension spring" in the attached picture.

My local cub cadet dealer is willing to order parts, but isn't much help in find the right ones for old tractors.