Donald C.
I like that tire and hub cap setup on that 100, looks good.
I like that tire and hub cap setup on that 100, looks good.
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Archive through August 20, 2006
- Thread starter jnorcross
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
dcarpenter
New member
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2012
- Messages
- 4
- displayname
- Duke Carpenter
Thanks Digger, I took your advice and ordered my cluth disc from one of the above sponsors.
Don
Don
Charlie / Anthony
Thanks for the info, I will defently be pulling the head to see if they are under the valves or imbeded into the piston or head.
Hopefuly they did not score up the cylinder wall.
An oil change is due on it so that will be drained and checked.
Charlie,
How does one go about flushing the block?
Thanks for the info, I will defently be pulling the head to see if they are under the valves or imbeded into the piston or head.
Hopefuly they did not score up the cylinder wall.
An oil change is due on it so that will be drained and checked.
Charlie,
How does one go about flushing the block?
Lonny,
You might luck out and find that little bugger in one piece. If not, open that thing up and if you find brass pieces or shavings, take it apart enough to rinse it good with kerosene or diesel. Keep your fingers crossed.
You might luck out and find that little bugger in one piece. If not, open that thing up and if you find brass pieces or shavings, take it apart enough to rinse it good with kerosene or diesel. Keep your fingers crossed.
Charlie,
Thanks again.
I hope I find everything is good shape, as this is the last good engine I have. Around these parts the 2 shops the bore out motors wants way to much to rebuild a Kohler K-series motor.
I am hopeing the worst I will find is the little screws imbeded into the top of the piston, at least that will be a simple fix.
If not I will have to use my newer cub, the 3235 for garden work and snow duty.
Thanks again.
I hope I find everything is good shape, as this is the last good engine I have. Around these parts the 2 shops the bore out motors wants way to much to rebuild a Kohler K-series motor.
I am hopeing the worst I will find is the little screws imbeded into the top of the piston, at least that will be a simple fix.
If not I will have to use my newer cub, the 3235 for garden work and snow duty.
kweimann
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2001
- Messages
- 210
- displayname
- Kenny Weimann
Myron, Anthony,
The carb I have has the Counterbore, so hopefully the kit Scott Madson is sending me will work. Only concern I had was the idle speed screw threads break into the counterbore, I may have to chamfer the side of the bushing to get it in, if it isn't already chamfered. The shaft on mine mic's. at .212 diameter. .219 is 7/32, so maybe that is what it was originally. Scott says the kit comes with a new shaft so I'll just replace it. Kenny
The carb I have has the Counterbore, so hopefully the kit Scott Madson is sending me will work. Only concern I had was the idle speed screw threads break into the counterbore, I may have to chamfer the side of the bushing to get it in, if it isn't already chamfered. The shaft on mine mic's. at .212 diameter. .219 is 7/32, so maybe that is what it was originally. Scott says the kit comes with a new shaft so I'll just replace it. Kenny
Kraig, Wes
Thanks for the help. It's definately a 44" deck. I took a look last night and it doesn't look like someone has straightened the brackets.
I have a tiller as well, is it possible that this sub frame is for the tiller, and I'm missing the one for the deck? Can I simply replace the brakets with the "twisted" ones and be good to go?
Thanks for the help. It's definately a 44" deck. I took a look last night and it doesn't look like someone has straightened the brackets.
I have a tiller as well, is it possible that this sub frame is for the tiller, and I'm missing the one for the deck? Can I simply replace the brakets with the "twisted" ones and be good to go?
James, I should have written "did the previous owner bend the brackets that the pulleys mount to so that the pulleys are now angled?" The tiller would use just the mule drive portion without the "scissor" parts that lift and lower the deck also when you use the tiller you do NOT use the tension spring as the belt needs to be quite tight instead a second adjusting bolt is added. Another difference between the two deck subframes you should note is that the "scissor" portion is more arched on the subframe for the 44" and 50" decks then it is for the 38", 42" and 48" decks. Not saying it won't work it just isn't the correct parts. Seeing as I only have narrow frame Cubs I can't say for sure if it'll work properly or not the best thing to do is give it a try.
