Archive through August 16, 2013

[bwittman]

Harry,

Thank you for the information on the light wiring harnesses and hardware. The Nightmare did not come with lights, so I am starting from scratch.

I know of those little wire retainer clips of which you speak. When I find some, they will be added. Somebody in this world sells them, I just don't know who. I'll use plastic zip ties, wire loops and whatever is necessary to route the wires and secure them properly.

As for the disconnect hardware, after taking your advice and looking at the stuff that Charlie has for sale, that looks to be standard GM stuff from the 80's. I'll bet the local Chevrolet dealer has it and that is a good place to start, along with the Delco parts distributor.

This shouldn't be too difficult of a job. Last year, when I had the engine and steering out of the tractor, I mounted a light switch and fuse; and hooked up everything to the ammeter. I made the wiring harness, and it worked last year. I'll check it again with a meter, and see that there is power to the end of each wire. I bought tail lights and a headlight grill from sellers on sleezebay last winter. Easier said than done, I know, but all I should need to do is to mount everything and hook it up. Hope I don't burn up everything.

Frank,

I hated to walk on that 149. After some figuring, there was no way that I could take on a project like that. It needed everything. Bath, new paint, grill, motor overhaul/replacement, driveshaft, (there was some sort of u-joint thing in there), transmission/hydro/rear end leak, brakes, trunion repair (he had some sort of a foot pedal rigged up), body work on the fender pan, and the list goes on. I am not in the junk business. I didn't want to mess around parting it, and there wasn't anything worth the salvage, that I saw.

I may be a bit gun shy after doing all the work that was necessary to get the Nightmare to where it is today. I knew nothing when I bought the Nightmare and don't know much more now. I couldn't see that 149 as a viable project. I would rather spend a little more and have something promising with which to work.

Thank you for the encouragement.

 

[tbdavis]

Picked this thing up the other day and just trying to gather some info on it. It's some sort of reversible grader blade with scarifers made by Brinly but no clue when it was made. Haven't used it yet so not sure how well it works but thought it was interesting nonetheless. Thanks.

 

[jboelens]

Terry, BB-360 Brinly rear mounted blade. Go to Manuals page on here and pull up Brinly Attachments Parts Manual and has a breakdown in there.

 

[jboelens]

Hre is a pdf file for a different tractor, but shows a little about the brinbly BB-360.
http://www.myelec-traks.com/avco-brinly.pdf

 

[cengelking]

Terry, I have one, it only has 4 scarifiers. It works well for grading and when its dug in you'll know it. I bent mine a little on a stump on Friday but no real harm.

 

[tbdavis]

Chris - does yours look like this? It's a little bit different than the one John posted ( I think?).

 

[tbdavis]

John - you're dead on. It's the Brinly BB-360 for sure!! You da man! Should have looked there first!

 

[cmiracle]

I'm still working on my 71, now I'm down into the trans. I have the shifter lever assembly removed right now because its shifting hard compared to my 1200. I suspect its just gunked up like the rest of the tractor as nothing seems broken. I've fiddled with it all morning trying to remove Part #2. (the pin holding the spring down)

Is there an easy way to do this or am I starting in the wrong place?

 

[tbdavis]

Clark - I use a valve spring compressor to squeeze the spring so you can knock the pin out but anything to squire the prong will suffice. Once one side of the pin is in flush with the handle the spring will probably work loose. Don't lose the pin!

 

[tbdavis]

Sorry - anything to "squeeze the spring"

 

[thoffman]

Clark, I think it was a 9/16 thin valve adjusting wrench I used. Just slide it onto the shaft and press down. Those springs aren't very stiff.

 

[jritter]

Morning all. Just picked up a new project. A 1650 from craigs list. nice shape but the owner says it surges. He used a scope on it and the governor gear has come off. I think the tab on the governor shaft has broken off. Will see how much work this is.

 

[dfrisk]

JOE - If you need to replace the gov. gear/flyweights, plus the cross shaft with the arm, it's quite a bit of work. You remove the engine, remove all the cooling tins, remove the flywheel, remove the oil pan, remove the cast alum. blower backing plate, remove cylinder head, remove the conn rod cap and push the piston as far down in the bore as possible but NOT out of the bore, remove the crankshaft, remove both valves & valve springs, remove the camshaft. THEN you can finally remove the governor cross shaft and gear and replace them.

I'd buy a complete gasket kit, plus the governor parts your replacing. Great time to remove the Gernade gears if the engine still has them. I'd put both oil seals in new, and ALL the other gaskets.

If you remove the piston/rod from the bore you really should replace the rings, plus if you replace the rings you have to lightly hone the bore to establish fresh cross hatch on the bore to break the new rings in properly.

Plus if the engine has been rebuilt recently enough, the conn rod has "Posi-Loc Rod Bolts" which are "torque-to-yield" and can not be reused, have to be replaced.

Not sure about now, but 8 yrs ago a K341 engine in rebuildable condition, meaning no windows or chunks broken off the bottom of the cylinder were bringing $500 each. It pays to repair them properly. I'd probably figure out a way to replace the conn rod if the engine had a lot of hours on it too.

 

[bjamison]

The K321 I bought is heavy! So I modified my lift to use a piece of steel pipe between the lifters instead of a 2 x 6...

My Boys got it in the basement - no problem. Engine is now in the que for another winter project. Needs a carb, but I've got a Carter #30 that needs a rebuild and I'll use it on this engine. In addition, I'll pull the head and oil pan for a look-see. If it's got balance gears, they will come out. Haven't checked, but if it's got an aluminum oil pan, that will get replaced with a cast iron pan....

I've been paying attention to some of the comments about a properly working hydro maintaining ground speed, level, up and down. Mowed with the 109 yesterday and it seems to hold it's ground speed pretty good. Need more seat time to be sure....

As I have said, the 10 hp in the 109 seems to do a great job with the 44 inch deck, but most importantly, I think it's right thrifty on gas. Not sure how the 14 hp swap will impact the gas mileage. I've got a lot of yard mowing chores and the more mowing per gallon, the better. I think when I swerve into 14 hp or greater, a 50 inch deck might should be the deck of choice for the engine hp.

126 has a broken valve stem and is sidelined till I can get 'round to it....

 

[mpatterson]

Had nice Sunday at the local fair here. They had a parade around the fair grounds of IH in honour of a local family who was in the business for so long. I guess next year there is talk of having a day for Cockshutt? Quite the collection of iron to say the least! Actually didn't realize there was as much IH stuff around here, nice to see the stuff out of the sheds!
Just a sample:

 

[mpatterson]

A couple more. Unfortunately I didn't know it was an open entry, otherwise I would have brought my Cubs too and maybe a few attachments? Oh well, maybe next time!

 

[prtombaugh]

Hi
Does anyone have a paint code for a Pincor generator? Thanks in advance.
Paul T.

 

[hydroharry]

Brian - you should be able to get those little retainer clips from someone parting a wide frame unit that had lights on it. I agree about the late 70's early 80's GM wire connectors. Since it sounds like you have the other wires in place then the only wires you'll need are the ends Charlie sells. You might want to get those 1st and then try to locate the matching connector ends.

Mike P - nice pics. I been wondering quite awhile about the units exported to the great nothern tundra. Glad to see they didn't get the right hand drive steering modifications

Jeremiah - I got alot of different measurements for the heat shield (baffle) we been discussing. I actually decided there really isn't any good reference point to measure from. Here are the measurements.
The overall depth is 10" front to back when laying a ruler flat on top the entire piece.
The width angles and gets wider as you go to the front of the tractor so here are those measurements:
The width at the very end with the clipped left corner is 8 and 3/8" (where it just covers the end of the head tin work shield).
The width at the back of the flat section covering the head (front of the clipped corner) is 9 and 1/2".
The width at the front of the flat section covering the head is 9 and 3/4".
The angled area in the middle of the shield is approx 1 and 3/4" when laying a ruler flat against it, and I would say is at an approx 35degree angle.
The flat section over the muffler is 10 and 1/2" at the rear.
The flat section over the muffler is 10 and 3/4" at the front (where the downward bend starts).
The front to back measurement of the section of the muffler is 3 and 7/8".
The downward angle piece at the front is approx 1 and 1/8" when laying a ruler flat on it, and is at an approx 45degrees angle.
(I guess I didn't measure the front to back dimension of the flat section over the head).

As for alignment or orientation, I'd say the left side front to back is pretty much in alignment with the frame front to back, when looking at both together. It also looks like the left side alignment is about 1/4" outside the hi-speed carb screw when looking at it front to back (eye balling it with the frame alignment).
I sure hope these details help. I didn't measure the thickness of the steel but I don't think it's quite 1/8", more like 3/32nds, so I think you're gonna need a metal bender to make this piece.
It sure would be heck of alot easier if someone would loan you an original piece to use. Sorry I'm not an artist like Kraig, Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos (he can put arrows into pics to pint point measuremenst etc.

 

[jboelens]

Terry B Davis's new load of Cubs coming from middle of Wisconsin....

 

[sblunier]

Clark,

Clamp it in a vise with the spring compressed....then drive it right out.....

There was an article in the Summer Cub Cadet Connection that detailed the procedure (

)