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Archive through August 12, 2016
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2016
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- displayname
- Jason Wiggins
Harry- Optical illusion. Brakes are almost non-existant. Still some fine tuning to do.
Ed-
In short, yes. Both are wide frames. There are actually two types of mule drives, one with angled idlers and one with straight but both will fit either tractor. The type of mowing deck you use determines the type of mule drive you need.
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In short, yes. Both are wide frames. There are actually two types of mule drives, one with angled idlers and one with straight but both will fit either tractor. The type of mowing deck you use determines the type of mule drive you need.
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I purchase a IH Cub Cadet 149 a month ago. It is a non running tractor right now. Engine turns over by hand which a good sign. Hopefully a carb rebuild, new fuel line, clean out the fuel tank plus a good tune up will get the 149 running again.
I'm not sure how long this tractor sat before I purchase it.
I haven't had very much experience working on hydro trans. The release buttons on the original release valves are stuck. I removed them and they are soaking in a mixture of PB Blaster and mineral spirits. Before today I've been spraying PB Blaster and taping the top of the buttom with no luck. Any suggestions/tips on how to free buttons??
After I removed the relief valves I notice where the relief valves go in is dry/no oil in that area. Is this condiation normal???
Should I add some Hy-Tran before I install my extra set of relief valves.
I'm to get this 149 able to move around my shop without hurting the hydro pump.
Thannks for any help.
I'm not sure how long this tractor sat before I purchase it.
I haven't had very much experience working on hydro trans. The release buttons on the original release valves are stuck. I removed them and they are soaking in a mixture of PB Blaster and mineral spirits. Before today I've been spraying PB Blaster and taping the top of the buttom with no luck. Any suggestions/tips on how to free buttons??
After I removed the relief valves I notice where the relief valves go in is dry/no oil in that area. Is this condiation normal???
Should I add some Hy-Tran before I install my extra set of relief valves.
I'm to get this 149 able to move around my shop without hurting the hydro pump.
Thannks for any help.
I think I may have messed up my main jet nozzle on a Kohler #26. I didn't realize I didn't need to take it out for cleaning, and it didn't come out easy. Nor did it go back in easy, and it also did not go in without damage to the screwdriver slot. Tractor isn't starting now. Could this be the reason? The hole is clear but the micro-topography around it has certainly changed. I'm guessing I should replace it, huh?
Dale M.
Did you wire brush the tops with the buttons to make them super clean and then do the spray/soak thing?
Once you do that and they are still stubborn, you can take a socket, center it over the button.
Turn it upside down and smack it on your vise or something else really solid.
That usually gets them to move enough for the PB Blaster to really get inside.
I had one once I had to smack on the anvil 5 or 6 times till they moved, LOL
What ever you do, don't pry on the ball, as it will score it and be useless.
Did you wire brush the tops with the buttons to make them super clean and then do the spray/soak thing?
Once you do that and they are still stubborn, you can take a socket, center it over the button.
Turn it upside down and smack it on your vise or something else really solid.
That usually gets them to move enough for the PB Blaster to really get inside.
I had one once I had to smack on the anvil 5 or 6 times till they moved, LOL
What ever you do, don't pry on the ball, as it will score it and be useless.
Wayne S.
Anything buggered up really needs to be replaced.
Pretty and smooth is a must.
Anything buggered up really needs to be replaced.
Pretty and smooth is a must.
Ed C.
Yes it will fit.
The only issue might be the belt. It might not fit depending on what size center drive pulley is on it.
Yes it will fit.
The only issue might be the belt. It might not fit depending on what size center drive pulley is on it.
Thanks Charlie. How much (if any) wiggle is allowable in the throttle attachment on top of the carb. Someone at Carter Gruenewald suggested I check it and there is a bit of wiggle. They said it might mean I need a new carb. I am getting pretty sick of taking it apart and putting it back together again and still having it not start, but I also loathe to spend over a hundred bucks on it. OTOh if I keep replacing parts I might nickel and dime my way to 100.
How do I know if its new carb time? What's the best deal on one if I have to go that way? Its an A237772
How do I know if its new carb time? What's the best deal on one if I have to go that way? Its an A237772
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Ok hopefully the last problem. Put the deck on the 122. Have a rebuilt PTO on. Have 1/64 inch between the brass button and the PTO button. PTO won't disengage. What did I do wrong?
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Dale M. Charlie great has some great suggestions. NEVER use brake cleaner on any of the check valves. It will temporarily swell the rubber/nitrol parts and cause premature failure.
Wayne S. Matt G. is correct. Most hardware stores have the little bronze bushings or multi layer washers in their specialty hardware/bolts-nuts sections.
Charlie P. We don't need snow for another six months around here. I've too many projects. Just taking a break for a couple of minutes.
Wayne S. Matt G. is correct. Most hardware stores have the little bronze bushings or multi layer washers in their specialty hardware/bolts-nuts sections.
Charlie P. We don't need snow for another six months around here. I've too many projects. Just taking a break for a couple of minutes.
Marlin,
They may have them where your at, but I've stopped at no less than 30 in Minnesota and none had or knew WTH I was talking about, LOL
AND, couldn't find them in any of their catalogs.
That's why I had a machine shop down by Minneapolis make me a 1,000 a few years back, just so I would never run out, LOL
They may have them where your at, but I've stopped at no less than 30 in Minnesota and none had or knew WTH I was talking about, LOL
AND, couldn't find them in any of their catalogs.
That's why I had a machine shop down by Minneapolis make me a 1,000 a few years back, just so I would never run out, LOL
Was having seat time on the 149 today, after 10 minutes of mowing it quit. Replaced the condenser, coil, spark plug and spark plug wire turns over but will not fire. Any suggestions? Worked fine yesterday with 90 minutes of mowing without missing a lick.
If I have to tow it (since it is at the lowest part of the five acres) do I just use the lever to release pressure or so I have to keep the lever down while it is being towed? Don't want to add to the problems by damaging the hydro.
If I have to tow it (since it is at the lowest part of the five acres) do I just use the lever to release pressure or so I have to keep the lever down while it is being towed? Don't want to add to the problems by damaging the hydro.
Attachments
Jim K.
Other than asking if it had gas in it, LOL
Do ya have fire anywhere?
Points, plug, coil and so on and so on.
Did it die fast like you turned the key off or slow painful death?
Under Edit,
As long as your release lever is working, lock it in place and pull away.
My old 1450 got pulled over 3 miles one time and through a plowed field another doing about 15+ MPH, LOL
And it never hurt a thing!
Other than asking if it had gas in it, LOL
Do ya have fire anywhere?
Points, plug, coil and so on and so on.
Did it die fast like you turned the key off or slow painful death?
Under Edit,
As long as your release lever is working, lock it in place and pull away.
My old 1450 got pulled over 3 miles one time and through a plowed field another doing about 15+ MPH, LOL
And it never hurt a thing!
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