-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through August 12, 2011
- Thread starter dtanner
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Don T., many years ago I cleaned big car carbs in a big pot on a stove, just enough heat to make it fairly hot. But for a cleaner I put in Arm+Hammer Washing Soda. With the different cleaner and ultrasonic that stuff should be clean in a 1/4 of the time.
Allen Schumacher
Well I did recook the parts again ,but never put in clean water
. I think that might have been even better results.I`am happy with what I got the second time.I was able to use my air gun to blow off the old paint in most areas ,a little work and I think it would all be gone.I think this will be a new tool in my shop.
Well I did recook the parts again ,but never put in clean water
Put on a new used deck and hanger and cant get it straight front to back. Lower in the front than in back. I took the top bolt out of the front hangers and it is better, but still lower in the fron that the back, What am I doing wrong. I know these photos are worthless, but I cant size them up.
mgwin
Well-known member
OK Don,
Fork over some details on the cleaner!
Anyone,
Will a rear PTO on a CUB tractor work on a Cub Cadet?
Fork over some details on the cleaner!
Anyone,
Will a rear PTO on a CUB tractor work on a Cub Cadet?
Marty - Yep BUT it's not a simple hookup 'cause the CC trans shaft isn't pre-cut for the connection between the two.
Further detail:
The trans shaft has a pilot hole in the end for the PTO shaft to dowel into and the shaft is splined for a sliding internal splined couple to lock them together to ingage.
Further detail:
The trans shaft has a pilot hole in the end for the PTO shaft to dowel into and the shaft is splined for a sliding internal splined couple to lock them together to ingage.
Marty- yes it will I have one in my cub cadet original.
Dave- I don’t know then the high compression shouldn’t matter all the higher compression might do is give you more power and you might have to run high octane gas.
Dave- I don’t know then the high compression shouldn’t matter all the higher compression might do is give you more power and you might have to run high octane gas.
Marty,
Along with what others have posted, the Cub Cadet transmission has to have a top shaft for the PTO, there is one version for the Original, and one for all the others gear drive models. The Cub PTO shift lever will work on the Original, all other models use a different shift lever/linkage because of the fenders or seat design. The 70/1000 lever looks like the one from the Cub, but the part that goes thru the side of the transmission case is longer, and the hole in it for the lever is indexed slightly different. Other than for the transmission top shaft and the shift linkage, the actual PTO itself will work in all models.
Along with what others have posted, the Cub Cadet transmission has to have a top shaft for the PTO, there is one version for the Original, and one for all the others gear drive models. The Cub PTO shift lever will work on the Original, all other models use a different shift lever/linkage because of the fenders or seat design. The 70/1000 lever looks like the one from the Cub, but the part that goes thru the side of the transmission case is longer, and the hole in it for the lever is indexed slightly different. Other than for the transmission top shaft and the shift linkage, the actual PTO itself will work in all models.
Here are a little larger photos of Mikes deck issue. Marty, my e mail page wont work for some reason, thanks for offering.
I keep looking at it and absoutly everything looks normal. Are there more than one carriage for this type of flat side 42" deck?
I keep looking at it and absoutly everything looks normal. Are there more than one carriage for this type of flat side 42" deck?
I asked the same pto question last year and everyone told me that some shaft from the cub would have to be shortened to fit in a cc.
There is actully a discussion on another forum right now by Todd Markel about putting one in his 100 he says the top shaft is unique to cadets everything else is the same as the cub.
There is actully a discussion on another forum right now by Todd Markel about putting one in his 100 he says the top shaft is unique to cadets everything else is the same as the cub.
Evening all, my current 1466 style nose cone is no more, split in a couple places the other night (cubbie suffered a minor injury) and when i opened the hood...it cracked the rest of the way; so im making a new one soon as i get it in. I was wondering how i could go about making one of these style inserts (see image) I was thinking wood...but im not sure how well itd hold up to vibration and weather, and im not good with fiberglass at all...ideas? (if need be ill repost in my little big tractor section, figured id ask here first) perhaps i could find the insert for a 284 or similar tractor and modify it to fit since there isnt as much of a size difference. Thanks guys for the help, i appreciate it.
Lucas,
Paul Bell pretty much explained it and he is 100% correct. I wasn't aware of the shifter being longer on the 70/100. Although it could probably be lengthened fairly easily by making a new shaft. The trans top shaft is another matter. You can't just cut the one from a Cub off because it doesn't have the splines for the big reduction gear (that isn't used on the Cub). I did see on one of the forums a while back where someone cut the splined rear part from a Cub shaft and welded it to the rear of the Cub Cadet shaft. You would have to be a pretty accomplished welder/machinist to get that done properly. And as Paul said, the Original uses a different top shaft than all the other gear drive models. My install used a complete setup that came out of a 70/100 so it was a bolt in job.
That being said, there are a couple companies that make special hardened top shafts for the Cub Cadets for pulling applications. They would have the equipment to make the pto specific top shaft but I'm guessing the price would be in the $200 range.
Paul Bell pretty much explained it and he is 100% correct. I wasn't aware of the shifter being longer on the 70/100. Although it could probably be lengthened fairly easily by making a new shaft. The trans top shaft is another matter. You can't just cut the one from a Cub off because it doesn't have the splines for the big reduction gear (that isn't used on the Cub). I did see on one of the forums a while back where someone cut the splined rear part from a Cub shaft and welded it to the rear of the Cub Cadet shaft. You would have to be a pretty accomplished welder/machinist to get that done properly. And as Paul said, the Original uses a different top shaft than all the other gear drive models. My install used a complete setup that came out of a 70/100 so it was a bolt in job.
That being said, there are a couple companies that make special hardened top shafts for the Cub Cadets for pulling applications. They would have the equipment to make the pto specific top shaft but I'm guessing the price would be in the $200 range.
Deck problem need help; 42" flat side deck on a 108. My new used deck had a grease fitting snapped off during shipping. What exactly do I need to do to get it off to put on a new one. Just remove the top nut? Also, the last owner greased it a lot. There is grease shooting out from under the pulleys. I had thought these were closed chambers and grease should not come out . AmI wrong? Thanks.
Mike-
It would depend on how much of the broken zerk you had to work with but I guess screw/bolt extractors would be the best bet. The reason for the grease under the pulleys is what has been pushed out with a grease gun. These grease guns put out some pretty good pressure. I have "slung" grease on a couple of my decks. I don't think it needs any worry...just make sure the spindles are tight and lubricated. You'd rather have grease coming out than dirt going in.
It would depend on how much of the broken zerk you had to work with but I guess screw/bolt extractors would be the best bet. The reason for the grease under the pulleys is what has been pushed out with a grease gun. These grease guns put out some pretty good pressure. I have "slung" grease on a couple of my decks. I don't think it needs any worry...just make sure the spindles are tight and lubricated. You'd rather have grease coming out than dirt going in.
I had thought about that Tom, but i dont know much about making molds and the only one I knew with a forge and the skills to use it (he made swords and the like) sold his forge when he moved. maybe I could make it out of plastic like i would for my model trucks, that may work...may not
balbrecht
Well-known member
Mike, that grease zerk is press fit into the top of the bolt (the parts lookup lists it as 5/16). I would take the bolt out, drill out what's left of the old zerk and press in a new one. Or you could find a used bolt with a zerk in it (or a new bolt from CC is about 4.50). You may also want to consider looking at the condtion of the grease seals on that pully as long as you have the bolt off if you are seeing that much grease out the bottom.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Glen-
Can you post a pic of the broken one? How did it break? Perhaps we can make some suggestions for improving it so if you re-made it it wouldn't break again.
I have researched sand-casting aluminum quite extensively, but I haven't tried it. It looks relatively easy with some practice, but I definitely wouldn't start with something that ornate.
Fiberglass would probably be the way to go, but again, that'd be kind of a tricky piece to learn on. Gotta walk before you can run...
Can you post a pic of the broken one? How did it break? Perhaps we can make some suggestions for improving it so if you re-made it it wouldn't break again.
I have researched sand-casting aluminum quite extensively, but I haven't tried it. It looks relatively easy with some practice, but I definitely wouldn't start with something that ornate.
Fiberglass would probably be the way to go, but again, that'd be kind of a tricky piece to learn on. Gotta walk before you can run...
Similar threads
