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Archive through August 08, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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mhomrighausen

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Sep 20, 2001
Messages
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Marlin Homrighausen
Steve B. Sweet setup. You've found a way to add weights to the Brinlys. I also like the trash roller on the top.

At the Boone, Iowa Plow Day this spring we encountered a good challenge. The event was setup orignally for big tractors and horses. Garden tractors were added when I inquired. The ground was shredded cornstalks... not shredded and disced... just shredded. Those of us that attended were greeted by rain off and on all the way over and while we had breadkfast at Country Kitchen in Boone and throughout the day. The ground was as pictured below.... flat, wet cornstalks on top of a very hard black clay type soil. (Even the big tractors struggled with plugging up due to the cornstalks.) Tom Flynn brought over his John Deere garden tractor with tiller and shredded those wet stalks to help us. That helped immensely. We had a lot of trouble with the hard soil just getting the plows in the ground. The night before Rob Dehli and Jeff Sandegren informed us of that so I brought along my faithful railroad track piece. One of the sponsors brought over some slab weights for the rest of the guys to strap onto their plows. That added weight helped immensely. We easily could maintain depth and only had to tolerate the wet cornstalks. I checked with where the 782D had plowed and in good going easily achieved a 9 inch depth. In the really hard pan spots we ALL had to raise the plows or be stuck. Not once did the A frame area of the hitch plug up on the "D". I remembered from Steve B.'s original writeup on how to setup a plow when he said, "...when using a Brinly plow ALL bets are off." I've used that RR track weight since on a couple of the neighbors gardens with great results.

Field to be plowed
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Field plowed
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Sizing up the field
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Railroad track on 782D for weight
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Here's a little different "look what followed me home" story.
This is Jackson taking his first Cub Cadet ride. We brought him home Aug. 2nd after a 2 year adoption process. It's glad to be home.
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<font color="0077aa">Hello! I am new to this site. I have a decent seat for a 106 Cub but it needs a new cover and maybe foam padding. I picked it up because it had decent metal and was not rusted out like the one original to my project. I am looking for info on whether the seat covers are still available somewhere? I call them covers, but they are the black vinyl covering that usually cracks. I also don't know if the padding inside can be purchased and is replaceable. Thanks!</font>
 
Paul R,

The Local International Harvesters Collectors Club Chapter #2 of Northern Illinois is having a plow day just west of Lily Lake (Rrs. 47 and 64) on Indian Creek Trail. Starting at 9:00a. They're trying something different by having a Swap meet, tractor games, and equipmet show. This 1st. time around soooooo. Going to hotttttt.
 
Kent,
Your "Look what followed me home" story has got to be the best!! You're breaking him in right keeping him on the REDS.
 
Kent-
Congrats on Jackson. He's a lucky young-man to have a great dad who's into Cubs!
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Kent S. I agree with Tom H. Yours is truly the Best Ever, "Look what followed me home..." story.
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I have a K301 AQS with balance gears and a K301A without balance gearsh that will go into a 1250 cub which would be the better one to rebuild Ron
 
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Dave Ross (Dross) on Wednesday, August 05, 2009 - 02:02 pm:

Ryan, last may I helped rebuild a 12 horse in a 100. It had the right hand dip stick tube but also the cam gear dip stick. It had the balance gears. when you pull out the long dip stick it's real short and had "check other dipstick" or something like that, stamped on it. I just never put it together with the balance before.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Dave R.,
It just so happens that a 126, with the same "dual dipstick" setup as you spoke of, has now been added to my Cub herd.
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Ryan Wilke
 
Hello,
The Butler Farm Show will be starting this coming Monday August 10th and running thru Saturday August 15th off route 68 in Butler, Pa. My family and I will have a vendor spot inside the exhibit hall for the Cadet Connection magazine. We will be in the building closest to the antique displays near the FOP shelter by Gate 3.
If your planning to go, stop in and say hi and sign up for a subscription to the magazine or if your already signed up, you can renew your current subscritpion there as well. We will also have all of the items we sell in the magazine available there too. Hope to see lots of folks there.
 
All,
I need help with my first decision in rebuilding the K301 from my 126 – piston size.
I’ve measured and re-measured the diameter in several places and come up with values between 3.3740” to 3.3755 that seem to be within the range of a new cylinder (3.3745 – 3.3755). So, I thought that I’d just deglaze with a 400 hone and put a standard size piston in. However, reading one of Matt’s posts gave me the idea of slipping in one of the old rings and measuring the gap. I slid the old piston in, put the ring flush on top, dropped the piston out from under the ring, and used a feeler gage to measure the ring gap. It’s 0.032, 0.002 over the recommended 0.030.

So, what do you think? Standard piston or a size larger?
 
I just brought home a 147. It is complete and original with an electric lift. It has not ran in approxmately 6 yo 7 months. I drained all the old gas out of the carb and tank and I can not get it started. It turns over and will start with starting fluid until it burns out. The carb float is not stuck and seems to work ok. I also took a working carb off a 124 with no luck. Any suggestion would be very helpful.
 
Dave,
Remember that the rings wear too, so an old ring in even a new bore will be a little loose. I would measure the bore meticulously though, as it seems you have done, so I would stick with the original plan and deglaze the bore, and go with the standard piston with new rings. The bore still sounds like it is still well within tolerances, I believe you can go .003 over on the bore and still be ok with a standard piston. Make sure you have adequate gap with your new rings!!

Mike,
Make sure gas is making it to the carb. a small bit of debris could clog the fuel petcock assembly, or has clogged the needle valve on the replacement carb.
 
Mike Smith:
The fuel may be making it to the bowl of the carb, but obviously no further. If it only runs on carb cleaner with gas in the bowl, it's a carb problem. If it's set for years, the gas dried up, left varnish in the jets and plugged 'em up. take the carb off, disassemble it, go to the the auto parts and get a "soak bucket" of carb cleaner, let the parts soak overnight and clean per instructions...
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Dennis F Yep was it starting to get Dry! We got a total 1.5" rain the last 2 days. Now the grass, out in the open, will grow again & need to be mowed ! Shoot,
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I have the mowers off all the Cubs,OK plan B.>>>>>>> Thinkin' bout headin' 2 hours south tomorrow morn to see some fellows I missed @ RPRU... & plow some DIRT!
 
Hello everyone,

Have a quick question regarding the Hitch Bolt for the Front Hanging Assembly on a 149. Is there a washer between the shoulder bolt and the frame? Cub Parts calls for one but doesn't show it on the illustration and I thought there would be to hold the Hanger Assemble away from the frame. If you could email me a picture or post one here that would be great.
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Kenneth
 
Ok guys I am working on a steering project and need to see a picture of the left side of a narrow frame front axle. From the top looking down if at all possible. I need the correct orientation of the steering arm to the spindle and axle. Some sort of dimension would be nice. the one I have was basically centered over the axle,but others I have seen were angled ahead toward the front. I'm trying to find out what is correct. This info will be used for an upgraded spindle I'm working on. Yes I will post pictures when its farther along (very soon)Thanks to any one that can help
 
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