Hello cubbers.I am new to this site and am interested in having a cub. There is a 129 sitting in a field that I may be able to get and I am wondering if that is a good one to start with or have? I did notice that the starter/gen is missing off of it and I have no idea if it will even run......Needing advise in AR .Tom
Archive through August 03, 2010
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mgonitzke
Well-known member
Norm-
How many magnets did you have to reglue? I think it will not work if two got switched around. Someone posted a link once about re-gluing magnets, but I don't think I bookmarked it...
How many magnets did you have to reglue? I think it will not work if two got switched around. Someone posted a link once about re-gluing magnets, but I don't think I bookmarked it...
mgonitzke
Well-known member
The loader subframe is done!
Tomorrow I can put it back on the tractor and figure out the braces to the front, and then re-plumb the hydraulics and reassemble the tractor and I'll be all set
Tomorrow I can put it back on the tractor and figure out the braces to the front, and then re-plumb the hydraulics and reassemble the tractor and I'll be all set
Tom-
I see no reason a 129 wouldn't be the perfect tractor to start with. I'm putting one back together right now as a worker. They're easy to get running if the engine has life in most cases but if you want to restore it then be ready to invest a few bucks and a lot of hours.
Of course if you get yellow fever you'll probably own a couple more within a year.
Welcome to the forum!
I see no reason a 129 wouldn't be the perfect tractor to start with. I'm putting one back together right now as a worker. They're easy to get running if the engine has life in most cases but if you want to restore it then be ready to invest a few bucks and a lot of hours.
Of course if you get yellow fever you'll probably own a couple more within a year.
Welcome to the forum!
Thanks Wayne. I don't actually want it to mow with it I want to make it kind of a rolling power plant and trailer puller.I want to mount some batteries on it and a power converter to use around my place to power tools and lights.
Matt,
To tell you the truth, I don't remember. It was more than two years ago. I took the engine apart & at least two magnets fell to the floor. One broke, so I bought another flywheel off Ebay & the magnets were loose in it also. I had to substitute one of the magnets to make up for the broken one. Would this make a difference? I don't see how.
To tell you the truth, I don't remember. It was more than two years ago. I took the engine apart & at least two magnets fell to the floor. One broke, so I bought another flywheel off Ebay & the magnets were loose in it also. I had to substitute one of the magnets to make up for the broken one. Would this make a difference? I don't see how.
The thing that bothers me is the engine runs fine, it's just that the ammeter never moves. I'm using to seeing it charge. I had a hellava time getting this engine in. I hate the thought of having to pull it again.
Tom-
That sounds like an interesting project. It should have a 12hp Kohler engine and if in good shape will have lots of power. Be sure and ask the seller if there is anything else in the barn that might go with it like accessories. You can set your second or third cub up for mowing.,,or even gardening.
That sounds like an interesting project. It should have a 12hp Kohler engine and if in good shape will have lots of power. Be sure and ask the seller if there is anything else in the barn that might go with it like accessories. You can set your second or third cub up for mowing.,,or even gardening.
mgerecke
Well-known member
I just purchased a 1250 from the original owner with only 340 hours in very nice condition. They converted it to foot drive and I think itis hard to operate if the terrain is not smooth. It really feels touchy. I have been considering putting it back to dash lever operation, but would like a picture of what the linkages look like in a tractor. The parts manual is hard to see the orientation of things.
Need to post some pictures when I get a chance. Also it came with a really nice snow plow and chains. Ant pictures would be a great help. It appears to have the parts inside the dash, just not hooked up.
Need to post some pictures when I get a chance. Also it came with a really nice snow plow and chains. Ant pictures would be a great help. It appears to have the parts inside the dash, just not hooked up.
MATT G. - Making great progress on the loader install! Keep up the good work!
Jerry B. - Wish I had access to really THICK cut steel plate....Oh, and a BIG lathe would be nice too!
Both loaders on my Farmall's are manual trip buckets. They do have limitations but I've run them SO long I hardly notice. My biggest complaints are the floor of the buckets aren't horizontal when the bucket is raised, and they're impossible to try to dump small amounts of material out of the buckets into carts or trailers. The last concern is able to be worked around by easing the bucket onto the side of the cart/trailer and tripping it but it's kinda hard on the cart. Both my loaders have live 2-way hyd. which really makes them more functional. Years ago loading the manure spreader with the M you had to dump the last few buckets that way to get the spreader heaped up.
Jerry B. - Wish I had access to really THICK cut steel plate....Oh, and a BIG lathe would be nice too!
Both loaders on my Farmall's are manual trip buckets. They do have limitations but I've run them SO long I hardly notice. My biggest complaints are the floor of the buckets aren't horizontal when the bucket is raised, and they're impossible to try to dump small amounts of material out of the buckets into carts or trailers. The last concern is able to be worked around by easing the bucket onto the side of the cart/trailer and tripping it but it's kinda hard on the cart. Both my loaders have live 2-way hyd. which really makes them more functional. Years ago loading the manure spreader with the M you had to dump the last few buckets that way to get the spreader heaped up.
I would like to confirm which style tail light originally went on various CC's. I think the oval Grote (bottom) is on the Wide Frames, the deep rectangle (middle) is on the the Quiet Line, and the thin rectangle with visible screws (top) is on the 82 Series. Have I got that correct?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Roy-
Bottom is 1x6/7 I think. Middle is for 86, 1x8/9 and QL and the top is 82 series.
Gerry-
Forgot to answer your question the other night. No, I didn't see Roush crash, as that happened Tuesday night, and I didn't get there until Thursday morning. There was another plane that went off the runway when I was there that looked like it had a landing gear problem, but I couldn't really tell.
Bottom is 1x6/7 I think. Middle is for 86, 1x8/9 and QL and the top is 82 series.
Gerry-
Forgot to answer your question the other night. No, I didn't see Roush crash, as that happened Tuesday night, and I didn't get there until Thursday morning. There was another plane that went off the runway when I was there that looked like it had a landing gear problem, but I couldn't really tell.
I spent the evening in the gargage trying to get my 782 to run correct. I though i would try one more time for help before i give up and take it in. Man i hate paying dealers. I put on a Walbor no adjustable carb that i got on the forum and and it keeps running flat (lean). I sounds fine all the way through the throttle range until i go full and then it starts surging after a few minutes. I can see that it needs more gas so does one know what the float drop should be set at and could the governer be worn causing it to surge under full power. Thanks for any help. Frustraited.
kt-17 engine, walborcarb, and newly added Kirk engines coil and points
kt-17 engine, walborcarb, and newly added Kirk engines coil and points
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Matt:
Did I ever tell you that I especially like your practice of recycling steel when you can?? I've been "hobby" welding for more than 40 years now (my first welding torches were bought in 1967 with money I'd saved for a Heathkit/Kraft radio control kit for an airplane that would've no doubt flown away..). Most of my fabrication has been with "rescued" steel from various sources unless I had to build something like the framework for my blasting cabinet.. Keep it up
We haven't heard from Jimmy for a few days, hope we get an update on his high speed problem...
Tom M:
You can't go wrong with a 129 or 149 (the best of the best!!! - don't let Kraig fool ya with that bit about the 125's).
In re-gluing alternator magnets , I recall something about an alternating north/south arrangement of the magnets and using an old compass to tell which was which, but I'll be darned if I can find it now.. It is A/C coming out of the alternator - somebody recently posted what the A/C voltage should be at 3600 RPM - it was lower than I thought it'd be, but still above 15 volts..
Did I ever tell you that I especially like your practice of recycling steel when you can?? I've been "hobby" welding for more than 40 years now (my first welding torches were bought in 1967 with money I'd saved for a Heathkit/Kraft radio control kit for an airplane that would've no doubt flown away..). Most of my fabrication has been with "rescued" steel from various sources unless I had to build something like the framework for my blasting cabinet.. Keep it up
We haven't heard from Jimmy for a few days, hope we get an update on his high speed problem...
Tom M:
You can't go wrong with a 129 or 149 (the best of the best!!! - don't let Kraig fool ya with that bit about the 125's).
In re-gluing alternator magnets , I recall something about an alternating north/south arrangement of the magnets and using an old compass to tell which was which, but I'll be darned if I can find it now.. It is A/C coming out of the alternator - somebody recently posted what the A/C voltage should be at 3600 RPM - it was lower than I thought it'd be, but still above 15 volts..
Matt - thanks for the reply. Now to another question. With the 1450 I recently got, came two sets of rear tires: Ag and Turf. The odd thing is that on the Ag tire rim the valve stem points inward towards the transaxle.
The photo on the left shows the turf tire mounted on the left side of the tractor with the valve stem pointing in the opposite direction of the rims dished inner lug bolt hub, and the Ag tire with the valve stem pointing in the same direction as the dished inner lug bolt hub.
I had not seen this before so was this intentional, or perhaps a mistake of whomever drilled the holes for the valve stem?
The photo on the left shows the turf tire mounted on the left side of the tractor with the valve stem pointing in the opposite direction of the rims dished inner lug bolt hub, and the Ag tire with the valve stem pointing in the same direction as the dished inner lug bolt hub.
I had not seen this before so was this intentional, or perhaps a mistake of whomever drilled the holes for the valve stem?
Need help on a oil leak. K301 Leaking bad out of the governor rod.
Looked at parts look up. Is the Cross Shaft Bushing what I need to fix this? And is it basically, Thead the old one off and thread the new one on? Or do I have to pull the rod and is there much to that?
Thanks Gary C.
Looked at parts look up. Is the Cross Shaft Bushing what I need to fix this? And is it basically, Thead the old one off and thread the new one on? Or do I have to pull the rod and is there much to that?
Thanks Gary C.
nbextermueller
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- Nic Bextermueller
Well, I did a quick forum search and a long Google search but can't come up with any ideas of what Tri-rib tires to use. I know I could just click over to MSC or some of the sponsors above (which I perfer doing).
But can those "in-the-know" offer some opinions on a good pair of AMERICAN MADE tri ribs to wrap around my 4x8 wheels on my 128 and possibly the wider ones on my 782? Thanks guys for the input.
Roy, Looks to me like you have yourself a pair of John Deere wheels. Those silly green tractors mount the wheels "backwards" from what we know. therefore the stem gets drilled on the other side so it will face out. this only becomes a problem when you run a pair "correctly" on a Cub and the stem whacks the brakes on cubs equipped with disc brakes...
But can those "in-the-know" offer some opinions on a good pair of AMERICAN MADE tri ribs to wrap around my 4x8 wheels on my 128 and possibly the wider ones on my 782? Thanks guys for the input.
Roy, Looks to me like you have yourself a pair of John Deere wheels. Those silly green tractors mount the wheels "backwards" from what we know. therefore the stem gets drilled on the other side so it will face out. this only becomes a problem when you run a pair "correctly" on a Cub and the stem whacks the brakes on cubs equipped with disc brakes...
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Gary-
I would check the condition/assembly of the engine's breather assembly. I had the same leakage you describe, and it was caused by the engine rebuilder installing the breather assembly (under the breather cover) up-side down.
I would check the condition/assembly of the engine's breather assembly. I had the same leakage you describe, and it was caused by the engine rebuilder installing the breather assembly (under the breather cover) up-side down.
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