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Archive through April 29, 2009
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mfrade
Well-known member
Kraig, thanks for the pics of the exhaust under that cub. It would be in the way for my mower but it was a good concept. I was also thinking of copying Brendans design but stopping at the footrest. This will still be a longer length of pipe and should help quiet the whole system.
Also, when I reworked my mule drive for the mower deck. I replaced the shaft as the original was worn into by the pulley mounts. To help prevent this from happening again and repair the bores in the pulley mounts I over bored the holes and sleeved the new holes with tubing with a tack weld to help secure them. This helps spread the load over a greater area and after 10 years they still work like new and show no signs of wear.
Also, when I reworked my mule drive for the mower deck. I replaced the shaft as the original was worn into by the pulley mounts. To help prevent this from happening again and repair the bores in the pulley mounts I over bored the holes and sleeved the new holes with tubing with a tack weld to help secure them. This helps spread the load over a greater area and after 10 years they still work like new and show no signs of wear.
All right all you plowing experts! I have a 107 with a 12hp motor, Ag tires, IH wheel weights, heavy weight under the seat, sleeve hitch set-up with a brinly plow/disc. I am trying to plow a garden. It is pure topsoil about 12" down (I live near a river). NO clay. It was tilled up about 7 years ago and has been grass ever since. Grass is only 2" high. I can get it to shave off the sod, but it will not pull deep. If I push down on the plow while pulling, it will go deep, but then the wheels spins. DOGGONE IT! I KNOW it can be done, I see all the plowday pics on here and the videos on Youtube! All those pretty little folded over rows...and all I am making is a MESS! Is going through sod too much to ask of the ole girl? Looks like others are going through sod... I could use your expertise. I have tried every adjustment possible with no success. If a fellow cub enthusiast lives in Ft. Wayne, a brother really could some advice. Even if you don't live in Ft. Wayne, any advice is helpful! I'd show you pics, but I don't want to embarass myself further. Thanks so MUCH! 
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Adam
) Adam
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2005
- Messages
- 1,259
- displayname
- Brian Branstetter
Adam,
Please don't feel bad because I started there too! And don't be afraid to post picks, even if you've made a mistake, it will go to help others and help us trouble shoot your problem. Also make sure you take a look at the faq section on plow set up. There are some real good advice give there.
Now with that said we need to know what condition you plows' moldboard is in. A rusty plow will not work worth a darn I don't care what tractor it's behind. I learned this the hard way. Polish, polish, polish, if your hand slides easily over the surface your good, if you feel resistance from rust or pits in the metal your going to have problems. The same logic goes for the coulter too, also the outer edge of the coulter needs to be sharp. Not like a knife sharp but not all chewed up from hitting rocks and such. You may even want to remove the coulter, some times it will tend to push the plow up out of the furrow if the ground is dry. Is your ground damp enough to plow? If ground is too dry it won't turn over very well and some times the plow won't even bite in at all.
Oh and the first pass is always going to look a little rough anyways due to the tractor not being tilted over at the correct angle. The second pass is always better looking and usually a little deeper.
Kind of funny too, my Cub originated from Cheribusko, Geiger equipment. I don't think I spelled that right but Whitley county anyways.
Please don't feel bad because I started there too! And don't be afraid to post picks, even if you've made a mistake, it will go to help others and help us trouble shoot your problem. Also make sure you take a look at the faq section on plow set up. There are some real good advice give there.
Now with that said we need to know what condition you plows' moldboard is in. A rusty plow will not work worth a darn I don't care what tractor it's behind. I learned this the hard way. Polish, polish, polish, if your hand slides easily over the surface your good, if you feel resistance from rust or pits in the metal your going to have problems. The same logic goes for the coulter too, also the outer edge of the coulter needs to be sharp. Not like a knife sharp but not all chewed up from hitting rocks and such. You may even want to remove the coulter, some times it will tend to push the plow up out of the furrow if the ground is dry. Is your ground damp enough to plow? If ground is too dry it won't turn over very well and some times the plow won't even bite in at all.
Oh and the first pass is always going to look a little rough anyways due to the tractor not being tilted over at the correct angle. The second pass is always better looking and usually a little deeper.
Kind of funny too, my Cub originated from Cheribusko, Geiger equipment. I don't think I spelled that right but Whitley county anyways.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Finally got to work on this thing for the first time since I got it. I rebuilt the carb, and it fired right up. I replaced all 6 O-rings in the right tilt cylinder.
Here's the other cylinder. What's wrong with this picture?
Randy R.
Sounds a case of worn valves or rings to me.
You might pull the head and decarbon things as it might also be some gunk stuck in the valve seat. Just a cheap thought.
Sounds a case of worn valves or rings to me.
You might pull the head and decarbon things as it might also be some gunk stuck in the valve seat. Just a cheap thought.
Tim K.
Knowing Matt, he's prolly got a press that will do the job.
A good press and about 30 minutes will fix that right up.
Unlike my dad that used to set up 2 2x4's and run over them with the car to straighten them out.
Knowing Matt, he's prolly got a press that will do the job.
A good press and about 30 minutes will fix that right up.
Unlike my dad that used to set up 2 2x4's and run over them with the car to straighten them out.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Charlie-
No press, unfortunately. I wonder if I could make some blocks to hold one end, clamp that to the floor, and then stand/jump on the clevis end until it's straight.
No press, unfortunately. I wonder if I could make some blocks to hold one end, clamp that to the floor, and then stand/jump on the clevis end until it's straight.
cengelking
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2006
- Messages
- 174
- displayname
- Chris Engelking
Matt, try Surplus Supply for a new cylinder. It may not be that expensive.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Chris E.-
Nope. Over $100 each for new welded, unrebuildable cylinders. I'm gonna call a couple of places tomorrow and see what it would cost to have new rods made.
Nope. Over $100 each for new welded, unrebuildable cylinders. I'm gonna call a couple of places tomorrow and see what it would cost to have new rods made.
Matt., I agree with Tom H. You are not going to bend that back into shape without a great deal of pressure. I have used a 20 ton press at work to straighten/get close drag link tie rods, on 1-ton wreckers. We service an auto recovery service that can't afford to have a truck down for days waiting on parts.
If you have a local auto repair shop, they may be able to help you out.
If you have a local auto repair shop, they may be able to help you out.
