Hello again everyone. I posted earlier about the front clutch on my 109. After looking at it closer, I believe my problem isn't with the clutch - but the actuator. The clutch seems to be intact - even the clutch button is still there - but the actuator(correct term?) - the plate that dis-engages the clutch - seems to be missing some parts. I tried to upload photos - but they were too large and I don't know exactly what to do about that. If someone could upload a photo of a complete unit - or point me to one already posted - I would really appreciate it. Thank You. Jeff
Archive through April 22, 2012
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Problems w/#2 tiller
OK, so I get it all hookd up behind the 1250 and try to till but when the going gets even a little bit tough, the belts start to slip and I can't get it in the ground more that 2 or 3 inches.
Upon closer inspection, I notice that drive pulley on the right angle gear box is larger (5/8"??)than the pullies on the nule drive(3/8"??)
So I'm thinking, not knowing the history of this machine, that I have the wrong pulley on the gear box.
The parts look up lists 2 pullies for the model #2 and #2B but does not specify size on either.
Do you guys think the larger pulley on the abgle drive is my problem here??
Dave S.
OK, so I get it all hookd up behind the 1250 and try to till but when the going gets even a little bit tough, the belts start to slip and I can't get it in the ground more that 2 or 3 inches.
Upon closer inspection, I notice that drive pulley on the right angle gear box is larger (5/8"??)than the pullies on the nule drive(3/8"??)
So I'm thinking, not knowing the history of this machine, that I have the wrong pulley on the gear box.
The parts look up lists 2 pullies for the model #2 and #2B but does not specify size on either.
Do you guys think the larger pulley on the abgle drive is my problem here??
Dave S.
David S.
The parts look up shows a different mule drive for the 82 series tractors.
I would suspect that the pulley for the #2 tiller would be 3/8" (why do my belts measure closer to 1/2"?) and the #2B pulley would be 5/8" for the *82s.
Your tiller may be the #2B, originally sold for the *82s. You may have to change the pulley.
The parts look up shows a different mule drive for the 82 series tractors.
I would suspect that the pulley for the #2 tiller would be 3/8" (why do my belts measure closer to 1/2"?) and the #2B pulley would be 5/8" for the *82s.
Your tiller may be the #2B, originally sold for the *82s. You may have to change the pulley.
I did some Cub work today. Pulled the 125 12 K for the last time
Harry & Wayne I hope I can fix it this time !
On another note, I don`t seem to get much last to a hood hinge, I replace this on my 149 two years ago, What is everybody getting for use out of there hood hinge. My 129 loader is just as bad as the 149.
On another note, I don`t seem to get much last to a hood hinge, I replace this on my 149 two years ago, What is everybody getting for use out of there hood hinge. My 129 loader is just as bad as the 149.
hydroharry
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Darren S - can't address your charging but did want you to know the 129 would have come with a 4 terminal V/R. However, it was not the type with an "L" terminal. It would have had the 3 standard terminals all along one side (B or BAT, G or GEN, and F or FIELD). Then the side to the left of these 3 terminals (back of the tractor) would have had a 4th terminal for GRD or Ground. Your original wiring harness would have had a pigtail wire off the battery ground wire which would go to this 4th terminal or GRD terminal. If your new wiring harness does not have this pigtaile make sure your V/R is grounded to the frame when using a 3 terminal V/R. If you are using a 4 terminal V/R with an "L" terminal make sure you do NOT connect a wire on the L, and also make sure the V/R is grounded to the frame. Also, you need to make sure your new wiring harness is wired to the correct connections at both ends - don't just depend on the color codes.
Don T - quit banging your head there and just don't put that K12 back in until you know the oil leak is fixed. And by the way, where is the PTO clutch?
With regard to the piano hood hinge on your 149 and 129, they are prone to breaking but 2 years sounds short to me. You could try the newer version used on the Quiet Line tractors. It's much beefier. It may raise the hood up slightly but mounts the same. You may have to purchase a used version as I think the only new ones still available are the xx8/xx9 series. I know you'll check with the sponsors.
Don T - quit banging your head there and just don't put that K12 back in until you know the oil leak is fixed. And by the way, where is the PTO clutch?
With regard to the piano hood hinge on your 149 and 129, they are prone to breaking but 2 years sounds short to me. You could try the newer version used on the Quiet Line tractors. It's much beefier. It may raise the hood up slightly but mounts the same. You may have to purchase a used version as I think the only new ones still available are the xx8/xx9 series. I know you'll check with the sponsors.
Don T,
There is a "Home made up grade" for stopping the hood from opening too far and messing up the hinge. It was a cable of some sort. <font size="-2">(Don't be hating me for the lack of memory).</font> I've see it here before but I'm sure I could figure out something for letting it go over center.
There is a "Home made up grade" for stopping the hood from opening too far and messing up the hinge. It was a cable of some sort. <font size="-2">(Don't be hating me for the lack of memory).</font> I've see it here before but I'm sure I could figure out something for letting it go over center.
thank you guys for all the info, ill do some checking and see what i can find.
Harry Bursell (Hydroharry) thank you, on my 129 the it does have the L lead and the post on the back side is hooked up to the starter generater the out side post, furthest from the engine, so im guessing the VR is toast, ill hook it up the way you decribed, and hope the generater is ok. thanks agian
Harry Bursell (Hydroharry) thank you, on my 129 the it does have the L lead and the post on the back side is hooked up to the starter generater the out side post, furthest from the engine, so im guessing the VR is toast, ill hook it up the way you decribed, and hope the generater is ok. thanks agian
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
I do have pictures of the two PTO rebuilt in my shop, but for some reason I did not Post them, I think it was the call to supper and the backed ham with scalloped potatoes. lol. I think food and wine go good with all meals and wine is good for your health. Well that`s my story and I`am sticking to it!
I do have pictures of the two PTO rebuilt in my shop, but for some reason I did not Post them, I think it was the call to supper and the backed ham with scalloped potatoes. lol. I think food and wine go good with all meals and wine is good for your health. Well that`s my story and I`am sticking to it!
The 147 decided to rear it's ugly head today for the first time since I got it last sunday (not yesterday.) The fuel tank is mounted in such a way that the sediment bowl is on the right side of the engine (over the generator/starter) and a rubber fuel line is run to the carb behind the engine. I took the tank off, cleaned the bowl, and went to mount it so the bowl side is on the carb side of the engine, but it won't fit, because the coil is mounted too high (it actually sits behind the air cleaner.) This is the 14 HP 321 engine we are speaking of here. I put the tank back on the way it was when I acquired it (bowl on the left side of the motor), hooked it all up again, and now it won't run. I ran the batt. dead trying to start it, and it had been starting with one revolution or less. After letting it sit for a while it would start up, run for a while, then stall.
I'm thinking it's not getting gas quickly enough. The float works fine- I checked that- and the fuel line is clear.
I was able to get it running again- this time for a while longer than before, but then it started sputtering and backfiring like crazy, and the only way it will keep running is while choking it (which I've never had to do before.) I have not touched any of the mixture/idle screws.
I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Will pictures help?
Thanks
I'm thinking it's not getting gas quickly enough. The float works fine- I checked that- and the fuel line is clear.
I was able to get it running again- this time for a while longer than before, but then it started sputtering and backfiring like crazy, and the only way it will keep running is while choking it (which I've never had to do before.) I have not touched any of the mixture/idle screws.
I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Will pictures help?
Thanks
I am not quite the Jedi Master of the Kohler Universe yet, but I finally got the governor on the 129 figured out. I lengthened the link from the governor arm to the carburetor a bit, and installed the spring by the book One test I made while it was running was to loosen up the governor arm and try to turn the cross-shaft with a pair of vise grips with the throttle manually operated. I verified that the governor was functioning at that level. Next was to put the spring between the belcrank and the lower governor arm as I had before I took it apart. Ran it around the yard and up and down some slopes, and it maintained speed pretty good. Fixed the broken grease fitting on the mower deck and installed it, and made about a 100 foot long 4 foot wide swath in the wet grass. Maybe by Thursday the weather will be nice enough to mow the whole yard.
Daniel,
There is a good chance you stirred some crap up, either in the gas tank, which made its way to the carburetor, or when you reinstalled the fuel line to the carburetor after cutting the excess away, a bit of the rubber may have flaked off and clogged a jet. Remove the bowl and the needle valves and shoot some jet spray carburetor cleaner through them. Another related possibility is that sediment has clogged up the cut off valve on the fuel settling bowl. Shouldn't be too hard to narrow down I think.
Ryan,
At the Arcadia Steam Show last fall there was a guy selling used batteries from Mobility Scooters for $20, and decided to take a flier on one. They weigh almost twice as much as your typical garden tractor battery, but have the same form factor. Worked great, and cranked over the old 129 when nothing else would.
There is a good chance you stirred some crap up, either in the gas tank, which made its way to the carburetor, or when you reinstalled the fuel line to the carburetor after cutting the excess away, a bit of the rubber may have flaked off and clogged a jet. Remove the bowl and the needle valves and shoot some jet spray carburetor cleaner through them. Another related possibility is that sediment has clogged up the cut off valve on the fuel settling bowl. Shouldn't be too hard to narrow down I think.
Ryan,
At the Arcadia Steam Show last fall there was a guy selling used batteries from Mobility Scooters for $20, and decided to take a flier on one. They weigh almost twice as much as your typical garden tractor battery, but have the same form factor. Worked great, and cranked over the old 129 when nothing else would.
mfrade
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Ryan, the only problem with my battery for the 169... there isn't ANY! Hence the question.. 
hydroharry
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Bruce N - how bout posting a pic so we can see the spring and governor arm again. I'd like to know where you ended up, and I'd also like to see that you have a throttle stop installed so you can't over-rev.
Daniel G - I'm gonna make an off hand guess that you somehow routed the fuel line different and it's not getting a constant flow of fuel. These are gravity feed (no fuel pump) and if the line is dipping to low and your fuel is somewhat low in the tank you're gonna starve it. That won't address everything you have happening, but I'd look for that first. Also, I would put the tank the other way around. Loosen the screw on your coil mount bracket and let the coil drop dowan as low as possible to see if you can use it that way. If you can't then someone has swapped something around on your flywheel shroud or engine.
Daniel G - I'm gonna make an off hand guess that you somehow routed the fuel line different and it's not getting a constant flow of fuel. These are gravity feed (no fuel pump) and if the line is dipping to low and your fuel is somewhat low in the tank you're gonna starve it. That won't address everything you have happening, but I'd look for that first. Also, I would put the tank the other way around. Loosen the screw on your coil mount bracket and let the coil drop dowan as low as possible to see if you can use it that way. If you can't then someone has swapped something around on your flywheel shroud or engine.
I think I'll be able to drop the coil some. Looks like there is some room for it to go down some; hopefully enough for me to turn the tank back around and perhaps get the correct fuel line for it and not the rubber thing. Thanks all for your replies and assistance.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2339.jpg
On a side note; I was able to get a new light for the front at O Reiley's (1st place I tried, go figure) and route some wires for the tail lights so they all work now.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/104_2339.jpg
On a side note; I was able to get a new light for the front at O Reiley's (1st place I tried, go figure) and route some wires for the tail lights so they all work now.
hydroharry
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Daniel G - you may be better off with a rubber hose line rather than the metal tube that is usually used with the bowl. I see your 147 in the photobucket pic and the coil looks like its mounted pretty correctly. Can you give us a pic of your fuel tank mounting? I think someone may have changed your mounts or used the wrong mount bracket or even the tank.
Bruce N - thanks for posting the pic of your final set up. I'm still worried you do not have a throttle stop and you could over-rev your engine and blow it up. It's just a little L that slips onto the bolt where the throttle cable connects to the spring. I actually don't know how you can make your whole assembly work without it.
OK Guys - Jeff Klein posted below about a problem with his PTO Clutch on his 109. He couldn't re-size his pics so I'm posting them for him. Can you help address his problem. I see he has the newer version blade/brake PTO Clutch.
Bruce N - thanks for posting the pic of your final set up. I'm still worried you do not have a throttle stop and you could over-rev your engine and blow it up. It's just a little L that slips onto the bolt where the throttle cable connects to the spring. I actually don't know how you can make your whole assembly work without it.
OK Guys - Jeff Klein posted below about a problem with his PTO Clutch on his 109. He couldn't re-size his pics so I'm posting them for him. Can you help address his problem. I see he has the newer version blade/brake PTO Clutch.
mgonitzke
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Bruce, it sure looks like you are missing the high speed stop bracket on the arm that connects the throttle cable and governor spring. That is part or all of your problem.
Edit:
Harry/Jeff K.-
The brake disc is missing, and the friction material is completely worn off the brake itself, for starters.
Edit:
Harry/Jeff K.-
The brake disc is missing, and the friction material is completely worn off the brake itself, for starters.
