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Archive through April 21, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I cleared some lilacs today. Getting ready for the garden. I used the front hoe to dig them out and the loader to finish. I didn't get to tilling today due to the rain that just started. That will give me a day or so to dig the tiller out.

I bought a coil from NAPA 2 weeks ago and put it on the loader. Today the loader just died all of a sudden. The coil was open. I went down and got a free replacement. I think they gave me the wrong one the first time. They looked different.

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evening gentlemen,If you remember i just joined after cleaning out my mothers in law garage, I found a cub 147 that had been setting in the back of the garage since it was bought and was told the battery had kept going bad, to make a long story short while looking for the mower deck belt i found a package that had the operator manuals for the tractor and the mowing deck a special duty equipment book along with a 1971 internation cub cadet lawn and tractor calender that had never been opened,getting ready to start working on the mower to get it running,just hope i can figure all this out.
 
Hello Looks like I'll be going to NAPA on Monday, I think I can trust bolts from there. I compared the bolts I took off from one unused and actually stretched 1/8th of an inch longer than the unused from the same bad batch.Look like Bob Leyland and I seem to have the same luck with our 104s. How often do you have weird things like that happen?
 
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Here is the 174 I found in the back of my mother in laws garage, it came with the deck and snow blade. had been forgotten about since the mid 70s, all she could remember about it was that the battery kept going dead. now if I can just get it running.Sitting in my garage now
 
Hello all, I have been trying to find out what type of oil (and how much) to put into the hydraulic pump assy I just put on my Cub 102. My IH dealer doesn't know, and I have heard either 10W30 or Hy-tran and would like to know for sure. Thanks for any help.
 
meant 147, there goes my fingers typing what my brain aint thinking again. thanks Terry I could not believe she just gave it to me to get it out of her way
 
Steve Buser:

First, welcome to the forum...
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Here is the information you are looking for from page 27 of the owner's manual...

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Terry, what about the pretty lilac flowers?


I am planning on fixing my 125, but I was browsing craigslist with wondering eyes and noticed: a 1170 HYDRO, it looks the "same" as the older cubs - is it?
 
On the #2 tiller gear box the bearings are on the out side . What my question is why they would put the inside brg, seal,then the outside brg dont make any sence to me .
 
Hey Michael Miller, how's your eyesight. Any chance you see some yellow sticking out from a patch of weeds on a country track down here? Don't think Google earth would help.
 
Graeme - I thought once about getting your address so I could spy on ya ;)

How you guys stretching 150k PSI Tensile strength bolts ????
 
Terry, Sir, if it is ok to ask on here and you have the time to answer I want to put a rear pto on mine, from the pictures I have looked at this 147 can be made to do about any job needed. I also liked the pictures of the front bucket, that would sure come in handy
 
Jim L.
The aluminum casting might have something to do with the fact that there's 2 bearings and one seal in them. Added strength to carry the tremendous loads they have to handle.
Besides all that, it works.
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KEN, JIM - Seems to Me the headbolts on Kohlers have six marks....so Grade 8. My K321 had five head studs which of course weren't marked. ARP makes REALLY Good stuff. You get their top-of-the-line hardware they should be about twice as stong as stock. Seems to Me Grd 8 is around 150,000# min. tensile and ARP's Good Stuff is A625 recommended for head studs & conn. rod bolts is 250,000-280,000# tensile. Do a search on "ARP" and enjoy an education in fastener technology. Nice thing about these old Kohlers is everything is small block Chevy size so parts are cheap. Some place like Summit or Jeg's should be able to get You what You need for about as cheap as avail. anywhere.
At My last job I bought a type of tool steel made ONLY By Carpenter Steel, with proper heat-treatment it was capable of over 350,000# tensile strength....APR's website explains in some detail Why a material like that is NOT the right material for headbolts....for the exact reasons Michael Miller explained. It gets strong but not tough. And it gets brittle.

FRANK - Sad news about Your 169. Be warned...K341's are not cheap. That's why I built a K321.
 
Gentlemen! I went to NAPA this morning and they told me to go to a place called Fastenal. I've been there a few times but it never occured to go there for head bolts.Bought a box of G9 or 9 grade bolts. The counter man said he saw grade 8 bolts being stretched at a workshop he just attended.Hopefully I won't be doing anymore complaining. Thanks for all the imput
 
BTW I had grade 8 bolts with 5 lines and a double line so I did'nt read it correctly. I'm sorry It has'nt been enough days away from the tax deadline My brain is still running on 1/2 speed. Sorry!
 
James - I don't know what you mean by "double Line" but 5 lines is G6.

Dennis - SB Chevy isn't the same as the Kholers because I had a stripped thread in my 127 block and had to drill larger and tap it for a SB Chevy bolt. It was 5/8.
Miller stated that wrong, tempering does not make them "tougher", it takes the hardness level down so that they're not brittle. I've hardned parts before without tempering them and they'd shatter like glass until I started tempering them. <font color="0000ff">Yeah , I just said a machinist was wrong - so keep those cards and letters</font>

Side Note: A roundy rounder car racer I know here doesn't use a torque wrench to tighten his rod caps , instead he uses a mic to measure the stretch.
 

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