• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through April 20, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Kraig,
Oh you'll get somethin alright!
biggrin.gif


Yepper,
Steve got it.
And here's his prize. But I kinda doubt he will mount them on his Cub.
27431.jpg



(Message edited by cproctor on April 21, 2005)
 
Richard C.
So I cleaned the valves last night. In the photo you posted of the valves I can see the ball bearing on the left (lower) chamber held up. On my leaky valve that bearing is setting down. I can push it up but there is a lot of resistance and it will snap back. I suppose the bottom spring is shot? Anyway I'll replace that one along with the fluid and filter and I figure that will do it. Thanks a lot, your help has been great.

-Jim
 
Charlie - Those water-transfer decals are date coded. They become difficult to release & slide off the backing paper around the edges after about 20-25 yrs. I have some IH logo's that followed Me home from work one day for "Proper Disposal" in '79 or '80 because their expiration date was past. (grin!)
Meyercord & American Decal made all of IHC's decals, at least the ones I'm aware of.
 
What did You DO? Buy Out an old IHC manufacturing plant? Or is that NOS from dealers? Ken's selling the IH "Branding Iron" decals on RPM, and the red/white "Red Power Showdown" circle decals.... Few of each of those with expired dates followed Me home too. And I had some 6788 decals. Best thing I have is a couple 2+2 emblems.... both the ones from the sides of the hoods, and the tiny ones from the dash.
 
Howdy all, I'm a newbie to the site and am looking for info that will tell me how to attach a front or rear blade to my 128 Cub. I have a Cub three point but it's obvious from these posts I'll need some more parts. The upper lift portion is the "female" part only and the "male" part will be needed. It also looks like there's a "Y" or "U" shaped bracket below. Also, if it's permissible to ask here, where can one find the necessary parts/blades as well as the wheel weights? Looks like you all have the answers! Thanks! "Clueless in Kansas"
blush.gif
 
Rocky,

The boxes at the top of the page will have all the answers for you. It may be time to call Binder Books for the CPE-2 book. It has all the attachments and gives you an idea of how to put them on. Also, Binder has most of the manuals for the attachments.
 
Rocky B,
You don't have a quietline but the mounting is the same for your 128.
27439.jpg

27440.jpg

27441.jpg

Rear blades hook up like this
27442.jpg

And for plows and other sleeve hitch type implements, you'll have to have this setup,
27443.jpg
 
Tedd,

The tractor in the Bryan pic fits the '73-'75 time frame and hee looks to be about 7 or 8 years old......
 
Terry B.
I checked the voltage at the regulator.
BAT terminal with gray wire connected had 12 volts. L terminal with the LT. Blue wire had 12 volts. Field terminal with yellow wire had no voltage. This give you any clues why the LT Blue wire on the oposite end from the regulator archs when connected to the S/G side of the Magnetic Switch?
 
Ok guys, I got one for you, I have this huge Burr Oak tree that I am taking down (actually having it taken down for me) However there is a twist to the deal because I'm also having a guy come out with a portable mill to cut the logs into boards so I can someday build some nice oak kitchen cabinets. Anyway, I may have to drag some big old logs around my yard and I was wondering if my 1250 would be up to the task I'm thinking these logs are going to be about 9 feet long and almost 30 inches in diameter, maybe 24 inches, so they'll probably weigh a lot, so I don't even know if the 1250 would budge it. Will I brake anything if I try?

Chuck
 
Chuck - it should work fine. I moved logs about 18" - 24" with my 86 on our property. Just find something to use as a skidder. I used an old hood I found from a truck. Worked like a champ.
 
Chuck.....good luck, but I doubt you'll get very far with 30" logs and a Cub Cadet.

...you won't hurt anything, you'll just spin out when you reach "the end"
 
Roger,
Looks like your cutout contacts are welded together. You are not suppose to have voltage on these contacts until the motor is running. There should be a section in your service manual on how to adjust the contacts. For now just separate the points and put a folded piece of paper between the contacts to disable them. Your voltage issue and spark should be gone. However your battery wont charge without fixing the problem.
27454.gif

27455.jpg
 
Thanks Ted and Digger for the great info about implement mounts. I enjoy my ol' 128 but have never used it for anything but mowing and now would like to move some dirt, snow, etc with it. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction. Not quite so Clueless in Kansas.
drool.gif
 
Chuck Fisher,
Looks like the density of oak is roughly 43 lbs per square foot. A 9 foot log 30 inches in diameter is about 41 square feet. A log of that size would weight about 1800 lbs. I would suspect you would have a tough time pulling that thing around even if you put wheels on the log.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top