Archive through April 17, 2009

[scorder]

An estate rake is very similar to what you would use rake hay on a farm, just on a smaller scale.

 

[acoffey]

hello guys havent posted in awhile but today i went to put the mowing deck on and i cant figure out how to hook the pto lever to the pto it self there is a button looking bolt where i think th lever hooks up to the pto i cant seem to get the bolt or w/e it is out to hook up that lever to it to turn it on or off

 

[theaton]

Richard P., the lift rod for your blade is "the weak link". The only diff between the narrow and wideframe rods is the lenth. When I got my 128 from my brother, he had lost the lift rod. I had remembered from years earlier pushing snow and watching the lift rod "bow" outward. When I fabricated a new rod, I made it out of 1 inch round stock with 1/2 inch hitch pins at the lift attachments, alot of overkill but it was what I had lying around. I have never had much use for using my blade for dirt moving. The thing to watch out for when making the lift rod stronger, is ramming loads. With no give in the lift rod/blade, ya could go flying over the steering wheel of your cub!
Can ya send some of that "extra money" my way?
I reread your post and never answered your Q. No you should not be worried about your lift rod bending.

 

[mtoney]

Making the snow/dirt blade lift rods to stiff is also very hard on the rock shaft and rockshaft roll pins. I only use our blade to move snow, I use a length of chain to lift it, then it floats very nicely over the ground. Works ok for dirt the couple times I have used it for that, but I normaly move dirt with my sleeve hitch box blade w/scrafier bar. CHeers Mike

 

[lkortkamp]

Well, I got the Cub out yesterday and did an inspection on it for the lack of turning radius(RH). I pulled the linkage and centered the wheel. Come to find out, the rod was about an INCH too long, so I shortened it and re-installed it. WOW..it turns RIGHT now LOL!!! and the steering wheel is close to centered.

Thanks guys for the hint.

One question: The hydro release control on right side of tractor. Does anyone know what the linkage is suppoe to look like under the cover. the PO told me the stuff never works, but after pulling the cover and realizing that it just pushes down two relief valves in drive, (I tried it) and I can then free roll the tractor. Just need the linkage, as it's all missing.

I think the PO owner though the valved usually rust up and don't work. Mine work fine,so would like to make it work properly.

 

[rpalmer]

I'm not in the market

for either, but.. a blade box vs. rear blade. I know that I wish I had one of those ground rippers before I cut into my little hill with the front blade.

 

[kwalesch]

Kraig, it was just a bad connection to the voltage regulator, thanks again, it's simple when you know what you're looking for, Ken

 

[pdorow]

R. Palmer,

I welded a 1"x 1/8" flat stock to the outside of my lift rod (full length. Because I move dirt around with my blade time to time I like to be able to have some down pressure--

With hydraulic lift I am able to lift the front tires off the ground.

 

[kide]

Larry:
The dump valve control consists of the "L" shaped lever/shaft (1/4 inch stock IIRC) that extends thorugh the tunnel cover and this

spot welded to the cross shaft...it presses down on the buttons on top of the valves.. (Picture courtesy of the CC Specialties online Catalog at the top of the page)

 

[mgonitzke]

Kendell-

I'm pretty sure that tab should be held in with a very small roll pin instead of spot-welded. At least every one I've had has been that way.