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Archive through April 16, 2010
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Terry,
The handle lays along side of the tunnel, the handle is about 1" flat stock 4-5 inches long, with a rubber knob on the end. I have a lever on my 129 to pull for towing, this one is different, and farther back.
I think that the reason that it wouldn't start is because the pos. terminal on the solenoid looks like mice were using it as a urinal! The wiring is new, but the terminal and the nut is rusted so bad, I can't get the nut off to clean it up. And it is only on that one connection, everything else looks new.
Brad.
The handle lays along side of the tunnel, the handle is about 1" flat stock 4-5 inches long, with a rubber knob on the end. I have a lever on my 129 to pull for towing, this one is different, and farther back.
I think that the reason that it wouldn't start is because the pos. terminal on the solenoid looks like mice were using it as a urinal! The wiring is new, but the terminal and the nut is rusted so bad, I can't get the nut off to clean it up. And it is only on that one connection, everything else looks new.
Brad.
Well late last night it rembered where the new fuel bowl was that Charlie sent me. I was looking at it all the time in a white box
. So this morning I installed a rebuilt carb and new fuel bowl and now the reamer will get put to the test.
Terry,
Me, teary eyed over a $100 gear drive? Naw! Teary eyed over missing out on the nearly new ag tires and fairly fresh K301 and S/G for $100, certainly.
Brad, that description of the lever sounds like a rear PTO lever.
Question, does anyone know if the 2 end pieces on the frame that the axle pin goes in and is secured by a roll pin if those bushings are listed for a parts replacement, i need those two bushings previous owner welded pin and bushings, so now i have to grind them off and out. to change back to a stock front axle.
Rod, The shaft,flexible coupling and metal coupling all need to be replaced. Also ck the coupling on the engine and replace if loose or has notches worn in it by the shaft pin. As I remember the engine end shaft pin is not a roll pin but a solid pin,use a new one. You may be able to save the little fan,but if the shaft is corroded you may have trouble getting it off,see if you can get it off before going for parts. I put a new shaft,etc, in mine a couple years ago,don't recall that it was very expensive. I don't see a reference to what model you are working on,mine is a 147.
Eric, those axle bushings are not available as separate parts from Cub Cadet. Perhaps you can find someone with a frame that could remove the entire axle channel and get it to you. I have spare narrow frames but not wide frames. It might be possible to get the bushings or even remove the bushings from another Cub Cadet frame. Perhaps someone has a better idea or suggestion for you.
Brad, is there an actual rear PTO in that 126 or just the control lever? Oh, and like Terry mentioned, about the only thing the rear PTO can run is, um, the rear PTO.
Brad, is there an actual rear PTO in that 126 or just the control lever? Oh, and like Terry mentioned, about the only thing the rear PTO can run is, um, the rear PTO.
Sorry Guys,
Been out cleaning up the electrical connections on the 126. I am leaning towards the solenoid being bad, the top terminal after using PB blaster would just wiggle around I finally got a wrench on both nuts and got the cables off. Took the solenoid off to clean it up and found the top post would turn 360 degrees.
The rear end does not have a PTO coming out of it. The rear cover looks to be in two pieces with more bolts than any other one I've seen.
The switch on the dash where it says LIFT UP/ DOWN is where some one has put the light switch.
Anyways, that is were I'm at so Far.
Thanks for the help
Brad
Been out cleaning up the electrical connections on the 126. I am leaning towards the solenoid being bad, the top terminal after using PB blaster would just wiggle around I finally got a wrench on both nuts and got the cables off. Took the solenoid off to clean it up and found the top post would turn 360 degrees.
The rear end does not have a PTO coming out of it. The rear cover looks to be in two pieces with more bolts than any other one I've seen.
The switch on the dash where it says LIFT UP/ DOWN is where some one has put the light switch.
Anyways, that is were I'm at so Far.
Thanks for the help
Brad
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Brad-
It must have had the rear PTO if it's got that extra cover. Someone probably pulled the splined shaft out of it and put on the blockoff plate. I bet the topshaft and all the other stuff is still there.
It must have had the rear PTO if it's got that extra cover. Someone probably pulled the splined shaft out of it and put on the blockoff plate. I bet the topshaft and all the other stuff is still there.
Kraig- those frame bushings can be ground off and replaced using bearing collars! After grinding off the old worn out one, align the new collar and weld in place. I need to do the clutch pedal collars on my CCO this winter!
Jeff-
I don't think that measurement is critical as long as you place it fairly close to the pump. I think I remember measuring 1 1/8" back from the cast coupler a while back. You can check the manual too; I think it has it.
Jerry-
Thanks for that collar tip. I need to do that on a couple of tractors. The only trick is going to be getting that 1/4" hole centered both ways on the front collar/bushing for the roll pin. Do you know whether or not the collars are hardened?
Wayne
I don't think that measurement is critical as long as you place it fairly close to the pump. I think I remember measuring 1 1/8" back from the cast coupler a while back. You can check the manual too; I think it has it.
Jerry-
Thanks for that collar tip. I need to do that on a couple of tractors. The only trick is going to be getting that 1/4" hole centered both ways on the front collar/bushing for the roll pin. Do you know whether or not the collars are hardened?
Wayne
