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Archive through April 16, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Here's a S/N chart for the 1x2/3 series. Looks like the 123 hydro started with S/N 157490. Speculation here: perhaps any 102s or 122s with a number later than that would/could have the perforated guard. Or a S/N just prior to that could have the perforated guard if they changed over prior to starting the 123 build.

35098.jpg
 
I am refreshing an original cub cadet with the Danco underdrive and wondering if anybody had any luck with machining a new drive pin for the Danco ud6 unit. It look like a high grade i/4 in. bolt with the ends mortised to fit the ud6. Thanks
 
Started with this,
35109.jpg


Ended with this after replaceing a few parts.
35110.jpg

35111.jpg

35112.jpg


Did not realy care for the slant grill design.
 
Kraig & others
My assumptions on the 122's perforated cover probably has to do with both the engine and transmission. With the addition of the hydro and it's required fan, there would be a lot of air being pulled back to the hydro, the perforated shield was probably put in place so the engine still gets cooling air.
 
But LONNIE - The double slant back grill is the most popular, most durable, longest produced, longest lasting of ANY Cubbie ever built. Of the four Cubbies I have the 72 is the one I like the most, run the most, have the least problems with.... But the 70 I'm going to restore maybe this summer will also be a 100 when it's done....
Boy..... That ought to get the comments going.......
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I won't mention mowing foot tall grass in third gear with a 7 Hp Cubbie.....
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Another ? on the Danco ud6 unit. How much do you need to shorten the driveshaft? Is it better to cut at front and move clutch back or cut at back and reweld the cross bar. Thanks from North Carolina
 
Move the clutch back. If you cut and reweld the cross bar you'll also have to machine down the driveshaft to make a new centering pin on the end.
 
Denny is restoring the 70??? Probably needs lots of new parts to do this too. Oh boy, I CAN afford that $ 3/gal gas now.......
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KEN - Just the "Cosmetic Parts"....The one's marked "NLA" in Your books. The drivetrain is 100% on this 43 yr old tractor! It just needs to quit this smoking habit It has.
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Even has the original factory tires.
 
So I started up my 123 last night and noticed that it starts better and runs quiter than my 1250. Is that true for everyone or do I just need to do more work on the 1250?
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Double slant Cubs......They're Cute......kind-of like my old '76 Gremlin.......
 
This winter my 1250 wouldn't run at more than an idle. Rev it up and it would just die out after a minute or so. As it warmed up it got worse. Put new points, condenser, spark plug, sparkplug helicoil
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, and coil with no improvement. I figured must be a sticking valve. Sooo, yesterday I took off the head, took off the valve cover, and removed the valves. Today I cleaned up the valves, lapped in the exhaust valve (which wasn't seating closed due to crud)and cleaned everything up. Looking at the face of the block i see a 'c' stamped in it. Huh? Upon further inspection I see a crack in the block. It goes from the narrow part of the web (between the exhaust valve and the cylinder) clear through the head gasket seating face toward the exhaust valve. I had forgotten that when I had the block bored .010 over it was cracked. Don't remember if the crack was as extensive at the time. Any one else experience this? Is it doomed? I was going to rebuild it next year but now I don't know. Don't think it is worth it now. What are your thoughts?

(Message edited by emcmahon on April 21, 2006)
 
Heres is my latest project.
35125.jpg

35126.jpg

A 102 with a 12hp motor, 15" rear tires, front spindles lengthen 2inches.
Have the center blade made for it, which works much better than the back blade.
Still need to retro fit a moldboard plow and cultivator for it. Have to make up a different lower 3point bracket or somehow compensate for the 3 inch lift in the back due to the larger tires.
 
I'm looking for an archive post on (1) removing slack/slop from the steering mechanism and (2) for installing the cooling fan on the driveshaft for my 109. Can anyone help?
 
Xavier

go to faq at www.cubfaq.com and go to #18a ( http://cubfaq.com/steeringrebuild.html ) or use the search utility at the yellow bar above. (https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/forum/search.cgi ) fill out the criteria, and remember to have it search in the vault.
the box can be tightened up by turning in the screw, but it might be worn requiring a new one. the rest of the slop in the steering come from the rest of the steering system, with a whole bunch of little 'slops' adding up to a big one... rod ends, axle pivot, axle bearings, and spindles can all add up...

the fan, after removing the drive shaft, cleaning the shaft, and removing the roll pin, right should slide on. mind the fan rotation, tho... HTH

(Message edited by stanner on April 22, 2006)
 
I have a 86 and am really having some clutch problems. The po really did a number on it and I have no idea how it is supposed to look. Is there anyone here from the cedar rapids iowa area that could help me out?

Thanks
 
Parts catalog

Wonderful. I particularly liked the radio. We finally got enough money to buy a couple and mount on the fenders of our 560's. Not only could you enjoy the music, but so could anyone within 3/4 of a mile, with the volume so high to hear over the tractor that you certainly shared your taste and genre with the neighbors.

No one ever stole one off anyone's tractor in the whole area. Don't know why, would have thought it would have gone well in someone's car. But, wait a minute, there weren't any rap and thumpa-thumbpa songs back then, just tunes with real lyrics and an imaginative writing of both the tune and words. Pardon me....
 
Would it be possible to get the part #s of the seals for the hydro pump on the tran? ( Input and Output). I thought I saw a picture of them some place but I can't seem to find them now. I sure would appreciate it.
Thank You,
Rick
PS iIt seems they were green.
 
Couple of questions for the gurus....

1. My 1450's starter is acting like its drawing too much juice. Sometimes it seems to just lock up. Then it goes. Battery good and have even jumped it. Does it need a rebuild? Or replaced.

Not familiar with these fancy hydros, used to starter/gen units.

2. Mounted a tiller to my 1250 but it is heavy as heck. I have a spring thing that is came with the basket case. Does anyone have a pic or diagram of how the spring assist mounts??

Thanks, been a long time since I was an addict to this board. I was typing here when 9/11 happened. Dark morning.........
 

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