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Archive through April 16, 2006
- Thread starter thoffman
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
If it ain't it oughta be. ;-p
Here's a Brinly PP1200
Here's a Brinly PP1200
I'm thinkin we need to start a new game!
<font size="+1">WHERE'S BONER!</font>
<font size="+1">WHERE'S BONER!</font>
mgallinaro
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2004
- Messages
- 69
- displayname
- MICHAEL J. GALLINARO
Jim,
To answer your question, the answer is no. The cast iron rear ends have 3 different brake asemblies but the axles and housings are all the same. The aluminum rear ends on the 72000 plus serial number tractor are totally different from the cast iron units.
To answer your question, the answer is no. The cast iron rear ends have 3 different brake asemblies but the axles and housings are all the same. The aluminum rear ends on the 72000 plus serial number tractor are totally different from the cast iron units.
till
Well-known member
FWIW I did put external brakes from a 682 on a 149. They worked out great. Will try to post a photo tonight to show how it looks. I liked the cast aluminum better than the stamped steel.
till
Well-known member
Pictures as promised....
Not bad for two years of work as of Friday.
I hope to have this thing done and delivered by the end of the month.....
Under edit,
FWIW the 682 had an Aluminum rearend in it.
(Message edited by till on April 17, 2006)
Not bad for two years of work as of Friday.
Under edit,
FWIW the 682 had an Aluminum rearend in it.
(Message edited by till on April 17, 2006)
Got a couple of questions about the 3point plows.
When I used my 3 point plow this weekend to plow my sweetcorn plot I noticed 2 things,
1st. I had to carry the plow useing the 3point to keep it from digging to deep. The landslide does lay flat on the bottom of the furrow and up against the furrow wall.
(question#1) Is this normal? If not what do I need to do to correct this
2nd. I have to keep my front tires against the furrow I previous turned over to get the full cut of the land,( ie. to cut sod completely off and turn over) If I keep it against the furrow wall the sod does not completely cut off and roll over and sometimes rolls back.
(question#2) is this normal? or do I still need to move the plow beam over to the right.
I currently have it set so the left side of the beam is even with the left side of the top link hole.(looking at the plow from the back)
(Message edited by lbuttke on April 17, 2006)
When I used my 3 point plow this weekend to plow my sweetcorn plot I noticed 2 things,
1st. I had to carry the plow useing the 3point to keep it from digging to deep. The landslide does lay flat on the bottom of the furrow and up against the furrow wall.
(question#1) Is this normal? If not what do I need to do to correct this
2nd. I have to keep my front tires against the furrow I previous turned over to get the full cut of the land,( ie. to cut sod completely off and turn over) If I keep it against the furrow wall the sod does not completely cut off and roll over and sometimes rolls back.
(question#2) is this normal? or do I still need to move the plow beam over to the right.
I currently have it set so the left side of the beam is even with the left side of the top link hole.(looking at the plow from the back)
(Message edited by lbuttke on April 17, 2006)
Hi Everyone,
Could someone confirm my research in the archives that a worn/old ignition switch on a 1650 could cause the battery to not be charged while the tractor is running. It starts/runs as usual with a jump. Also sometimes the white needle of the hour meter still moves when the key is off/removed. The battery is a few years old but held charge through the winter after sitting for weeks at a time. I have not yet put the battery on a charger to see if it will take. Thanks for any input.
Eric
Could someone confirm my research in the archives that a worn/old ignition switch on a 1650 could cause the battery to not be charged while the tractor is running. It starts/runs as usual with a jump. Also sometimes the white needle of the hour meter still moves when the key is off/removed. The battery is a few years old but held charge through the winter after sitting for weeks at a time. I have not yet put the battery on a charger to see if it will take. Thanks for any input.
Eric
till
Well-known member
Lonny,
On question #1 is sounds like you have "too much point" which means that your plow is set to go deep. If you screw in the ajuster on the top it will "take out some point" and you will plow at a shallower depth. If I remember correctly the ajuster is left hand thread, so you have to watch the ajustment or you will wind up plowing even deeper. I do believe that you do ride the front tire up against the furrow wall for the next furrow.
Plowing is an art. Depth, speed and condition of the plow face have a lot to do with the way things work. This is what I have picked up from the Plowdays I have been to.
BTW Steve B (Jr or Sr.) can really answer these questions with the real world knowlage.
On question #1 is sounds like you have "too much point" which means that your plow is set to go deep. If you screw in the ajuster on the top it will "take out some point" and you will plow at a shallower depth. If I remember correctly the ajuster is left hand thread, so you have to watch the ajustment or you will wind up plowing even deeper. I do believe that you do ride the front tire up against the furrow wall for the next furrow.
Plowing is an art. Depth, speed and condition of the plow face have a lot to do with the way things work. This is what I have picked up from the Plowdays I have been to.
BTW Steve B (Jr or Sr.) can really answer these questions with the real world knowlage.
tschweizer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2000
- Messages
- 862
- displayname
- Travis Schweizer
Tedd, he's got a 3pt plow. Totally different ball game.
Lonny, I have to somewhat "carry" mine also. There is a point where they'll level out and plow nice, but they're not as "user friendly" as a sleeve hitch type plow.
Lonny, I have to somewhat "carry" mine also. There is a point where they'll level out and plow nice, but they're not as "user friendly" as a sleeve hitch type plow.
Guess I should have made it a bit clearer on what type of plow it is.
Its a Cat.0 3point 10inch plow, just like the photo that Charlie posted at the bottom of the page.
Travis,
I have found that after I get the plow to the depth I want/need and than lift the plow just a bit to put weight onto the lower lift arms it plows nice, but when I try to use the float postion it just keeps going deeper.
I have the plow set to run 6 inches deep. (set useing a 6 inch block under the tractor tires and plow set to run level, no point, landslide sits flat on the ground entire lenght and depth gauge wheel set to hold plow at 6 inches)
But if I try to run useing the float it will pull down until I can no longer pull the plow.
I do not have this problem when useing my sleeve hitch 10" plow on the 102, but I like not haveing to use the strong arm lift on the 102.
So I guess its like you say its a whole different ball game, and will take some time to figure out just how to plow with it.
Its a Cat.0 3point 10inch plow, just like the photo that Charlie posted at the bottom of the page.
Travis,
I have found that after I get the plow to the depth I want/need and than lift the plow just a bit to put weight onto the lower lift arms it plows nice, but when I try to use the float postion it just keeps going deeper.
I have the plow set to run 6 inches deep. (set useing a 6 inch block under the tractor tires and plow set to run level, no point, landslide sits flat on the ground entire lenght and depth gauge wheel set to hold plow at 6 inches)
But if I try to run useing the float it will pull down until I can no longer pull the plow.
I do not have this problem when useing my sleeve hitch 10" plow on the 102, but I like not haveing to use the strong arm lift on the 102.
So I guess its like you say its a whole different ball game, and will take some time to figure out just how to plow with it.
rbedell
Well-known member
Eric P:
In answer to your question, YES the ignition switch could allow the battery not to charge if the contacts from the B to A terminal were not present when the key was in the on position.
The second part of your post talks about the Hour Meter not shutting off. All this sounds like a Bad Ignition Switch. You may want to consider replacing it.
In answer to your question, YES the ignition switch could allow the battery not to charge if the contacts from the B to A terminal were not present when the key was in the on position.
The second part of your post talks about the Hour Meter not shutting off. All this sounds like a Bad Ignition Switch. You may want to consider replacing it.
Jim Bailey of Clinton - please email @ [email protected] me so that we can resume our conversation regarding your 982.
thanks, Keith
thanks, Keith
Myron, (Original Drive Train Noise) I found the zerk (found it in my repair manual also)applied a little grease. Made the noise less obvious but still there. Got worse the longer I drove. Going to pull it apart to see what repairs are needed. Thanks, Dave
mgallinaro
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2004
- Messages
- 69
- displayname
- MICHAEL J. GALLINARO
Jim,
Here is a picture of the three.
Here is a picture of the three.
till
Well-known member
Tom,
On a sleeve hitch plow yes it will, but on a Cat 0 3 point there is not top link to ajust. Take a peak at the one you posted a picture of. After Travis corrected me I see what the difference is now.
On a sleeve hitch plow yes it will, but on a Cat 0 3 point there is not top link to ajust. Take a peak at the one you posted a picture of. After Travis corrected me I see what the difference is now.
